colour matching
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- This topic has 4 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 14 years ago by Jayson Munro.
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- June 5, 2011 at 4:52 pm #31126
There isn’t a whole lot to read from. Your best bet would be to attend a color matching course through your paint company.
Some quick advice would be to try and not use the kill color method. It has it’s uses but overall doesn’t work most of the time. It’s always better to remix and leave out the color there is too much of than to kill.
Also if your picking a variant to tint I always go for the one that has a close match in metallic size and brilliance. I would rather pick one that is too yellow or blue and just leave out some of the culprit toner.
Get a toner wall chart also. It will tell you what the toner looks like mixed with a metallic, and either black or white. It will help when tinting to figure out what it will do and the strength of it.
Another tip, it is usually quicker and cheaper to just eat the blend and get the job done. I can knock down and tape of a fender in no time, if I have to adjust the color more than once or twice I have already lost money compared to blending.
[quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=20760]There isn’t a whole lot to read from. Your best bet would be to attend a color matching course through your paint company.
Some quick advice would be to try and not use the kill color method. It has it’s uses but overall doesn’t work most of the time. It’s always better to remix and leave out the color there is too much of than to kill.
Also if your picking a variant to tint I always go for the one that has a close match in metallic size and brilliance. I would rather pick one that is too yellow or blue and just leave out some of the culprit toner.
Get a toner wall chart also. It will tell you what the toner looks like mixed with a metallic, and either black or white. It will help when tinting to figure out what it will do and the strength of it.
Another tip, it is usually quicker and cheaper to just eat the blend and get the job done. I can knock down and tape of a fender in no time, if I have to adjust the color more than once or twice I have already lost money compared to blending.[/quote]
Listen to Ryan…that is all excellent advice.
When I went to school we had a decent text book for autobody repair, the paint section had some basic info on colour theory. The best info I got was from the school itself.
Get a color wheel from your paint company that you are using that lists the toners on it and where each toner fits on the wheel..example some blues have a green tone..some have a red.. The more u do it the easier it becomes.. but like ryan said if u have to spend to much time tinting it is faster to blend a panel out which i agree with..
June 6, 2011 at 12:31 am #31132Very good advice from everyone,I would like to add a couple of things.If you can do your sprayout when you are edging parts or when the vehicle shows up you are ahead of the game.If you are trying to get the color right on a friday afternoon at 4:45pm it can be tough :deadhorse Try to do your tinting in the morning if possible,you will be sharper then.Also be very careful with colors that cancel each other,this can cause metamerism(same color appearing different under different lighting) Always tint to blend,it will be faster in the long run,I have seen people spend hrs tinting just to get a butt match.Try to get your color tinted in 20 mins,after that amount of time has passed it becomes more difficult.Sikkens has an excellent tinting course at there training center,it is 4 days long and very intense but worth it,your paint company should have something also.When looking at your variants and your sprayout card use a 3m sungun or daylight…it is worth every penny,the first variant that looks good is the one to go with,don’t look at them for hrs.Tinting is definiately an accuired skill,but keep working at it and take as many courses as you can.Also if you have a lady that works in the shop and you are stumped have her look at the color and ask what she sees,women have a better eye for color than men.Also when looking at your sprayout card ask your self this,”the car is bluer/slightly greener”(can be redder,bluer,yellower etc)than my spray out,this will put you in the right direction for the right toner,95% of the time the answer is in your formula,try to stick with the toners listed.
When doing metallics keep in mind a coarser metallic will darken it,a fine metallic will lighten it,and white will kill the metallics.The side tone and flop is also something to think about :compsmash :p
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