Glasurit 90 line color matches???
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[quote=”Jayson M” post=33689].Your bragging up a product that has issues and everyone knows it..[/quote]
Have you heard a lot about the 90 line being crap? So far it’s not my favorite paint.
When I used 55 line the color matches on stuff was pretty good overall. Matched newer stuff better than the older cars. older(8-10 years) American car color matches were pretty bad. They didnt always match the color max chips, but 75% of colors were blendable.
If you do some research you’ll find BASF waters arent the greatest. There are plenty of people that make it work, but if it was so great there would be no reason for the company to try and play with low voc solvent.The toners need to be stirred with a stick to loosen the solids off the bottom of the can. Then put on a shaker before they even hit the mixing machine. Run the mixing machine a couple times during the day.
BASF seems to really push this.I used BASF for quite some time and found the colors to be pretty good overall. We always had that odd problem color that I think you get in any line. The Dupont system I’ve been very impressed with the color matching with the new spectrophotometer but it has it’s moments, and I have finally run into a few problems with the three stage colors people had been warning me about and they were a night-mere! Like any system the more familiarized I became with either BASF and Dupont the better I could match colors without having to tint, and most systems when you ask a painter the biggest problem with it….the odds are they’ll say color-matching.
With BASF I found the color decks spot on so if you don’t have the colormax sprayed out cards then it’s well worth the investment. About 80% of the time I’d use standard, I’d also look at the MPV (most popular variant) & the history of mixing that color (if any) and if I couldn’t find a good match I’d look to the field formula’s available on BASF’s website (you need to create an account). I struggled most with newer Hyundai & Fiat colors.
paint is a raw material and you need to understand how it works. if all u had to do is type a code in a coumpter pour some liquid in a cup and pull the trigger there be a paint shop on every corner.
if been using basf for 8 years and it took me while to get it figured out but now its a brezze and tinting is cake. we also use limco supreme plus and that to took couple months to work out but that to is an easy to use.
Hey Kant, one thing that I’ve seen throw a colour shift or even a bit of a matching issue is your drop coat or orientation coat or mist coat…your final light coating of paint…the colour tends to match the best to the colormax deck card if your orentation is sprayed over a dry or 90% dried surface. If you spray your orientation over a wet film it tends to throw the colour for a bit of a loop…sometimes anyways…not saying this is the solution to your problems but one of the biggest potential problems I have witnessed.
If your going to try this method be careful that you don’t end up with a ton of sandpiling in your blends (piling of dry overspray), it can be hard bury if your light handed on your clear coat. So I personally let the product dry 80-90% and then drop coat.
90 line is a very workable line…every single company has its strengths and weaknesses and we all know it…its all old hat.
I’m in the process of playing with the Low VOC solvent…and so far its pretty easy… no major hurdles yet…
Thanks for the info. I do usually wait for the color to flash off completely before doing my drop coat. What technique do you use for your drop coat?
My bosses have no interest in switching paint companies so I’m just looking for a little info that might make my life easier. Thanks again
Mixing/stirring with Basf is very important.
Stir the toner before it hits the mixing machine. Basf even supplied a offset mixing stick to scrape the solids off the sides of the can.
After using stir stick, paint shaker for 15 min then it is ready for the mixing machine.
Run mixing machine for at least 10 minutes a couple times a day.I am using Onyx but I assume 90 line is similar.
I’ve been spraying Onyx since 2011 and haven’t had too many issues w color match. We do 90% Mercedes though and their colors are pretty consistent. We switched from Diamont and the colors are all a little cleaner. The color decks are the same for 55,90, Diamont, and Onyx so there’s going to be some variations in the exact match.
Thanks for all the info. I have tried a few things and am having a little better luck the last couple weeks.
I was wondering what guns you guys are using with this stuff. And what air pressure your using?
ThanksI use SATA 3000 guns and between 20-30 psi. I’ve tried an Iwata gun and if sprayed well but I felt like the quality wasn’t there. One thing I’ve been doing lately is baking the job if run into a problem. It makes it a lot easier to sand.
Well, I thought it was going a little better but the last couple weeks thing have been really bad. It’s driving me crazy. Is anyone who does not work or have worked for BASF happy with the color matches with this stuff?
So, well full disclosure – when I first replied 3 months ago I was not affiliated with BASF ,since then I have started as a troubleshooter with a BASF jobber. I’ve sprayed various BASF lines, mostly Diamont and Onyx and I don’t think you’d see many, if any posts from me over the years complaining of color problems. To say your having to tint 85% of the colors, I can’t even imagine what could be going on but I can guarantee that is not what the average shop experiences. With either Diamont or Onyx I think we might of had to tint 1 color a month, if that (in a shop doing just over $1 million total sales).
If your saying the colors you spray out don’t match the card something if definitely wrong, they should and usually do look identical to the card (in my experience). To replicate the card as close as possible you want to finish your spraying with a lighter mist coat. 90 line and Onyx are both thick products (hence the 1.5 tip recommendations) and you need to agitate it often, the new version of smart track now even has that annoying pop-up telling you to mix your paint (which would indicate to me that’s been an issue if they’ve had to implement a reminder system). Also hopefully you have the latest version of SmartTrack IV with the most current formulas….and shake your toners before you put them on the mixer.
Can you maybe let me know what kind of vehicles you see often, and some examples of problem paint codes that I can look into?
Thanks for your help. My colors are usually close to the color max cards not always exactly the same but close. I do shake the paint and run the mixing machine a couple times a day, like I always have. We do have the newest version for SmartTrack with the reminders.
The biggest problem I find is that the side tone on the light metallic colors is almost always too dark. The part I find the most frustrating is that all the silver tinters have a dark side tone to start with so it’s not easy to get rid of it. In the past I was always able to add more silver to a color that was too dark to make it lighter but with the 90 line that just doesn’t really work.
We do a lot of Hondas so NH700m and NH623m are a problem. Anything light blue or gold is also usually a problem. I did a Hyundai the other day, code E1 that was no were near any of the paint formulas. It wasn’t a new car but the formulas were way off.I’ve heard a lot of guys have had success with the new Tekna guns so I was going to get one to try out. What tip size would you recommend for it?
I’ve been using a Sata 3000 HVLP with a 1.4 tip. I’m wondering now if that is part of the problem. The guy who was painting before me was using a similar gun.I’ll check on some of the other code that have been a problem tomorrow.
Nh700m is tough even in Diamont.
When I sprayed Onyx, I had better luck with a Tekna 1.5 vs. GTI 1.5.
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