Laser perfect black paint.
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[b][i]Hey guys, I have been doing a lot of black paint jobs lately. I have been getting them pretty darn straight but I’m always looking for that perfect look.
Is there any tricks you guys have to get a laser straight paint job?
I’m talking about when you look down the side and look at an object off in the distance (like pole or something) and it doesn’t have any ripples or waves.
[IMG]http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll228/67ls1vert/1106092246.jpg[/IMG]
Is there anything more that I can do besides blocking the guide coat down to a solid color? Maybe a longer sanding block?
I’m am starting on a 65 mustang that the owner wants it to be a show car with the body perfect.
Thanks for your tips. [/i][/b]
use epoxy primer and block, use polyester primer and block, apply again and block, urethane primer and block, and then sealer and wet sand with a block. sounds like alot of blocking but thats pretty much the only secret to it. as far as the block goes, invest in a series of different blocks, try and use the biggest one as much as possible in a diagonal fashion. some guys say use a paint stick and wrap it with sandpaper. although that might work for something really small, its ridiculous to attempt all that blocking with just a paint stick and anticipate results. if paint sticks were really that powerful we’d be paying alot more for them
Thanks mocoke… Im not sure why but some of the text
is missing off the side of the page. Is there a setting
for this so I can read everything.
I have tried to use the – + text box on the top of
the page but didnt help.if your using mozilla, upgrade to the latest version.
I concur …block , block , block everthing and when your done blocking , block somemore B) and after paint …. block , reclear , cutblock and polish :pcorn: B) (you’ll be able to see the future in that finish) :kofee
so what I need to do is block it out and respray
it with more primer and do it over again?
Doesn’t that defeat the purpose?downloaded the 3.5 ver. now I can read all the text again.
Thanks Admin.
hey jinx, i have been having the same problem with alot of the threads for the past couple months. you downloaded something?? where is the download?
If you are using firefox then you might need to upload the latest 3.5.5 ver to be up to date. Here is a link for you to do it.
let us know if this helps.
http://www.mozilla.com/products/download.html?product=firefox-3.5.5&os=win&lang=en-US
no i am using ie8. i actually just tried the compatibility view and it shows up fine. i guess the forum isn’t set up to run in ie8.
I see what you mean now, its hard with so many browsers. The other threads seem ok , just this one when a larger pic is added. I’ll see it I can get it fixed for the IE users.
To minimize waves its best to spread your filler over large areas, avoid a little here a little there and a little in the middle of some youve already had down. I fill the worst parts and just air file or hog it with 40 grit, just really knocker flat ya know. Then when it feels pretty good go ahead and spread the entire panel end to end. This is when the long boards come out and i strike it flat by hand with 80 grit using the longest blocks feasible. Now that it feels damn straight i spread the whole panel again with a glaze type product and block that with 120 grit again using long blocks. Now you can continue on with finer papers using only blocks until its in 220 grit and prime with surfacer or just spray poly it and block on that for awhile for insurance before primer. Again only sand your primer by hand with the longest blocks possible. When its painted and cleared you should also use blocks for color sand and buff. Which reverts back to stones comment about blocking and reclearing the car, i think what he was stating is that if after painting there are still some very minor quivers you could block those out with like 800-1000 and squirt some more clear.
great advice. I see people doing that on Overhauling and other shows doing high end cars. Smear filler over the whole panel and block it for a week. Let me ask you, when you smear filler over the entire panel do you sand it down super thin? What if you go through the filler, do you start over, or is it normal to have highs and lows?
thanks…
you always want to take as much filler off as you can. when all done there will be areas you see metal, different layers of filler, etc. its fine if you break through the filler as long as the part is straight/flat. when doing bodywork, even with a hard block you do need to take into account the different hardnesses of the substrait. if you break through you need to watch that you dont go too far because you will create a low spot where the filler is and high where the metal is. this also goes for different layers of filler. if you spread your first coat of filler, sand, then your second coat and goto sand you need to rememeber that the second coat is softer than the first and will sand away easier than the first. this is assuming your getting on the filler right away and not letting it cure till its rock hard. once you get the panel as straight as possible, put a few coats of a polyester primer on it and block that out with some 150-180. its build up thick with no shrinkage and will allow you to block a single product with the same hardness throughout the panel making it pretty straight. plus it fills pinholes and slight surface defects minimizing the about of 2k primer you will need. once your bodywork is done correctly that is only one step needed to make it wave free. the second thing that will help is clearing twice. on your first round of clear put like 4 coats down, let cure for 24 hours or so, block the car down with 400grit then reclear it with another 3 coats, sand and buff. you will see a huge difference in how flat the clear is when done. you will have much less wave in the clear.
as for the site, i have had this problem with every thread that has a large picture in it. thanks for looking into it!!
[b]jim c wrote:[/b]
[quote]you always want to take as much filler off as you can. when all done there will be areas you see metal, different layers of filler, etc. its fine if you break through the filler as long as the part is straight/flat. when doing bodywork, even with a hard block you do need to take into account the different hardnesses of the substrait. if you break through you need to watch that you dont go too far because you will create a low spot where the filler is and high where the metal is. this also goes for different layers of filler. if you spread your first coat of filler, sand, then your second coat and goto sand you need to rememeber that the second coat is softer than the first and will sand away easier than the first. this is assuming your getting on the filler right away and not letting it cure till its rock hard. once you get the panel as straight as possible, put a few coats of a polyester primer on it and block that out with some 150-180. its build up thick with no shrinkage and will allow you to block a single product with the same hardness throughout the panel making it pretty straight. plus it fills pinholes and slight surface defects minimizing the about of 2k primer you will need. once your bodywork is done correctly that is only one step needed to make it wave free. the second thing that will help is clearing twice. on your first round of clear put like 4 coats down, let cure for 24 hours or so, block the car down with 400grit then reclear it with another 3 coats, sand and buff. you will see a huge difference in how flat the clear is when done. you will have much less wave in the clear.as for the site, i have had this problem with every thread that has a large picture in it. thanks for looking into it!![/quote]
great info Jim. I haven’t done the cut and re-clear before. I will try everything you mentioned on the mustang I am working on.
Like I said, I am new to this and want to learn as much as possible.
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