Sata 3000 RP1.3 help
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take that filter and throw it in the garbage…problem solved! 😉
In gun filters are worthless, cause more issues than they help.
I don’t use one in any of my guns.
Clean your guns and pre filter the shit outta your materials and you’ll be good to go.Every nib I have ever got from the gun always came from the passages itself. Never the Cup. So it’s as good as worthless.
ryan, i tend to agree. alot has to do with the clear as well. i have always found spi clears to be on the fast side so they like to go on thick and wet so they flow out. too thin and they dont look as nice. i use the euro, universal and ms clear. i think as time goes on with this gun i am going to find out that the thicker the clear the better its going to work. the thicker it is probably the less overspray and better efficiency as well. 4:1:1 on the euro is great for certain jobs and the iwata but many times i only reduce it 1/2 part and have found that to be the ticket with that clear if you are someone that likes thicker clears. goes on thicker and flows right out like glass. the ms clear is thicker as well so the gun will probably work great on that. universal is a little thinner and that is what i was using and probably why i did better with the psi turned way down.
Just shot the Euro (4:1:1) like butt! Wow, it flowed like crap and trash everywhere.
Somedays are just…[b]Jayson M wrote:[/b]
[quote]Secondly disregard what lild said,run your fan wide open and your fluid control wide open.jobs like myself you would be better with a 1.4[/quote]
man that is uncalled for. he ask for a opinon on a 1.3. and i gave it to him. see when i use my 1.3 i have to turn the fan spray to a 8 inch pattern, wide open and i cover half the door on a pass. even though you like a 70% overlap, i like a 50% overlap. and when useing a 1.3 i have to go slower, like you said, it atomize’s the clear more, and i use a high solid clear which require me to go slower on the pases. so compared to my sata 90, and 2000 the 3000 i have to go slower. to the op, when asking for painting insturctions, everyone does it differently and likes different setups. and this is what i like to do with a 1.3, however, if you decide to go with a 1.4, then do like every one else. a 1.4 will put out more, which in turn will allow you to go faster.
now on the iwata gun i used one a few years back, and i thought it really layed the clear down like water. but ran everything so i went back to my sata. plus, my sata doesnt’ use as much clear like everyone here claims. but this gun can put it down like water. if it feels like it. also to the op, i don’t use a filter either. i prefilter it before it goes in the cup. after each job it goes into the gun washer and stays there until the next job. but this is my clear gun. but if you intsist on useing the filter for the cup, put the stem part up into the cup.isn’t that the truth.
If you want to increase your speed you move closer to the panel with a 70% overlap your film build will be alot less=no runs or window framing.That is why you have to move slow,when you turn your fan in your distance to the panel increases and with a 50% overlap your passes will be slower.But hey man you can paint however ya like :pcorn: As far as material output at wide open a 1.4 puts out 10% more than a 1.3,they are the same gun speed wise for me.
I use a 1.2 with the fan wide open. There is no way a RP is slower than a NR2000 or 3000
I sprayed clear with my NR2000 since 2001. I just got the RP a little over a year ago. If you dont choke the thing off Laying clear is effortless. If your gonna choke it off you might as well save $200 and get a mini-jet and run thet wide open 😉let me make my self clear. i don’t have a prblem with laying down clear with my sata rp 3000. i don’t choke the gun either, the trigger is set to wide open. i like a 8″ fan pattern spray not a foot and half. and i like going a little slower when clearing. it may be just me. but i like to look at my self while clearing. it’s and addiction. but compared to my nr2000 and espacially my sata jet 90 it’s a little slower, due to psi. but that’s just me. now if you want to talk about spraying fast, try enviro base.
Man I grew up with conventional spray guns(been painting in a production shop since 86)I have a sata jet 90 and painted with one for 10 years,the speed is the same compared to a 3000rp.The fan is 12inches on a 3000 lets be realistic,an nr 2000 is not faster than an rp.As far as envirobase try sikkens autowave and you will find out what is faster.I paint in a shop with 2 downdrafts and 16 bodymen,2painters,I know all about speed :rofl But hey like I said before you can paint however ya like :pcorn:
:pcorn:
Jayson’s been laying paint since before I was born. :blush:
and then there’s Bondo, who actually predates the spray gun. :whistle:
:rofl
Well I got some more use out of my gun today. Sprayed about a gallon of spi euro clear. I mixed it a little thicker at only 1/2 part reduce and ran the psi at 25. Definitely much better as far as material usage and overspray. Still layed down really good. I guess the universal clear was just to thin for how high I had the pressure. Iwata you have to run at the max for proper atomization. Obviously with this rp you have plenty of room for adjustment.
now ur catching the drift 😉
This is a very interesting thread…
Like it has been said before it really depends what kind of clear you are using,HS=more pressure,MS=less pressure.But I wouldn’t want to use anything under 28psi,I think too many people think that paint has to “flow out”to look right when that is just not the case.If you have proper atomization,technique you can make clear look however you want.When you have to depend on “flow”you are adding another variable that can bite you in the ass.I really don’t think that the sata wastes material compared to other guns,and if it did just bill the customer 😉 Seriously it uses less than my devilbiss plus and sata jet90,and it is equivalent to my old rp.
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