Tips for a first time painter in his garage.
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Hi guys / gals,
I’m currently painting my project car I’ve been working on for what seems like forever, 3 years, and I’m doing it at home in my garage and on a budget. This is my first time to paint car, or anything at that. I did all the body work myself and it’s turning out pretty good so far.
I’m using just a small 33 gallon compressor which I run 50 ft of hose into a cooler with ice, after is a moisture trap and another 50ft of hose. I have a filter at the gun. So far this setup has been working fine. I’m using a cheap Harbor Freight gun. It’s real air hog. I spray at 45 psi.
Problems I’ve had are solvent pop, runs, some orange peel, and dust in my paint. I really don’t plan to color sand and buff. I’m trying to get a nice factory finish minus flaws. I’m using a 1 stage solid paint and applying two coats of clear. At this point I wish I would’ve gone with a base clear system. The paint I’m using is Summit Racing’s urethane paint. So far I’m happy with the finish quality if I only can get some minor things under control.
My current plan has been to spray 2 coats of single stage followed by two coats of clear. Let paint cure, wet sand with 600 grit and spray an over reduced (10-15%) wet coat of clear for a smooth finish.
Any tips on technique you can give me would be much appreciated. Keep in mind I’m a first time painter. I recorded some of my spraying sessions and took pictures.
[IMG]http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/v8-bug-383-summit-racing-black-1.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/v8-bug-383-summit-racing-black-2.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/v8-bug-383-summit-racing-black-3.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/v8-bug-383-summit-racing-black-4.jpg[/IMG]
Second coat of black.
First coat of clear.
Second coat of clear. My creeper tried to sabotage the paint on my deck lid. I laid the second coat of clear on wet so I will have some material to sand and to get a wet look. This created solvent pop. Should I wait longer between coats? I gave each coat about 30 minutes to an hour. Should I have waited til the next day to apply the wet coat?
Here are the results. You can see the solvent pop and dust.
Here are the fenders I sprayed. Same issues. I sanded them down with 400 and I’m going to respray. Solvent pop was BAD on these. This was the first spray session ever.
[IMG]http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/v8-bug-383-summit-racing-black-0.jpg[/IMG]
[img]http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/v8-bug-383-summit-hugger-orange-2.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/v8-bug-383-summit-hugger-orange-3.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/v8-bug-383-summit-hugger-orange-4.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/v8-bug-383-summit-hugger-orange-5.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/v8-bug-383-summit-hugger-orange-6.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/v8-bug-383-summit-hugger-orange-7.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/v8-bug-383-summit-hugger-orange-8.jpg[/img]
Oh yeah, the car incase you’re interested.
[img]http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/v8-bug-body-work-finished.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/summit-high-build-2k-primer-v8-bug-2.jpg[/img]
My desired results, more or less.
[img]http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/v8-bug-new-look-383-hugger-orange-44.jpg[/img]
What clear are you using?
I saw one(clear) that has a 10min flash time and if your waiting 30min to 1 hour thats to long and you would have to wait 4 hours to coat again.
also looks like you have to wait 8 hrs scuff the base single stage and then spray on the clear with 2 medium wet coats
so
1 – Paint Single Stage black wait 5-10mins between coats apply 2-3 coats
2 – Wait 8hrs then Scruff with gray scratch pad to lvl and dust nibs or dirt
3 – Spray Clear on 2 coats medium wet -No more than that according to tech sheet I sawWait 18hrs and Wet sand and buff with 1200-1500-2000
gives us the numbers of the paint we can read the tech sheets and get some problems solved.
As for dirt and dust I always wet down the floor before I paint
Sounds like your on the right track, cool looking car. Solvent pop can be caused by too quickly applying your paint or as likely in your case, waiting too long in between coats. Once your singlestage or clear tacks up its pretty well time for another, if its skinning over your waiting too long. One thing to make sure of is that your clearcoat is compatible with your singlestage if your applying the clear wet-on-wet (not letting the singlestage dry and scuff/sand), usually they will have the same hardener otherwise the clear can delaminate from the singlestage a few months down the road…again this is only if your doing wet-on-wet.
[quote=”Wydir” post=14690]What clear are you using?
I saw one(clear) that has a 10min flash time and if your waiting 30min to 1 hour thats to long and you would have to wait 4 hours to coat again.
also looks like you have to wait 8 hrs scuff the base single stage and then spray on the clear with 2 medium wet coats
so
1 – Paint Single Stage black wait 5-10mins between coats apply 2-3 coats
2 – Wait 8hrs then Scruff with gray scratch pad to lvl and dust nibs or dirt
3 – Spray Clear on 2 coats medium wet -No more than that according to tech sheet I sawWait 18hrs and Wet sand and buff with 1200-1500-2000
gives us the numbers of the paint we can read the tech sheets and get some problems solved.
As for dirt and dust I always wet down the floor before I paint[/quote]
Thanks, Wydir.
I’m using Summit’s high solids urethane clear along with their medium temp activator and zero VOC reducer. Mixing 4:1:1. Here is the spec sheet for the both colors (hugger orange / black) and their clear.
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/acrylic%20urethane%20paint.pdf
I’ve used Summit’s product all the way through. Also, I forgot to mentioned, before I spray the color I have been spraying a coat of their epoxy primer as a sealer and to give it a uniform color. It flashes in 30 minutes. Here is the spec sheets for it as well. It mixes 1:1.
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/epoxy.pdf
Thanks for the help. I wet down the floor last time and it helped a lot, but I did it about 6-7 hours before. I hear 1 hour before is enough time to let all the dust settle after turning on all my fans and what not. I noticed once I sprayed the first coat it was nice, level, and very little to no dust. After waiting an hour between coats I notice the paint would collect dust and that’s where my problems began dust wise.
Is eight hours enough time to scuff? Won’t the paint still be pretty soft / tacky? When you say gray scratch pad I’m not sure what pads you’re referring to. Are they scotch bright pads?
[quote=”jimmo” post=14696]Sounds like your on the right track, cool looking car. Solvent pop can be caused by too quickly applying your paint or as likely in your case, waiting too long in between coats. Once your singlestage or clear tacks up its pretty well time for another, if its skinning over your waiting too long. One thing to make sure of is that your clearcoat is compatible with your singlestage if your applying the clear wet-on-wet (not letting the singlestage dry and scuff/sand), usually they will have the same hardener otherwise the clear can delaminate from the singlestage a few months down the road…again this is only if your doing wet-on-wet.[/quote]
Thanks, Jimmo. I’ve seen many of your videos and it has been a big help, although I’m still learning.
The single stage paint is the same brand as the clear, Summit Racing. Their paint system uses a universal activator and reducer.
The first time I sprayed, the orange fenders, that was my problem. Too many coats in too little time. I only allowed each coat to flash 10 minutes as I thought that was enough, which it wasn’t.
I’m not familiar with the term skinning. Is that when it completely hardens? I’m still trying to figure out when’s the perfect time to apply another coat. By tacking up, I’m assuming you mean the paint will become tacky to the touch and non will come up on your glove / finger. Sorry for the basic questions, I’ve never done this before.
What’s the best way for a guy in my situation to apply his paint with minimal dust without the need to wet sand and buff. Apply my 2 coats of color followed by 2 coats of clear, sand / level, and spray another coat of clear?
Thanks for all the help.
Most of my spraying is done in an ideal condition so I don’t really know what advice I can give you there. As for clear being tacky, basically touch somewhere on it (ideally on the masking paper or a part that gets hidden by trim or something), it will slightly stick your glove (or skin), basically once it makes the change from wet. Typically it will take 5-10 minutes. 10 minutes should have been long enough, it could also the tip size your using. Too much material too quick, if your using anything bigger then a 1.4 then you could have problems, maybe even with a 1.4. If your flooding the clear on that will cause it, if your getting runs too then theres a good chance thats whats happening…(although all painters will get the odd run, if its excessive then theres a prob).
Maybe my eyes are bad or something…but I don’t see any solvent pop. 1 or 2 of the epics look to have fish eyes to me, though. (which would be caused by contamination).
Is that relabeled Kirker? Wondering cause Bloverby said it is..(not knocking just askin)
I don’t think I would have cleared anything that was solid urethane…[quote=”jimmo” post=14704]Most of my spraying is done in an ideal condition so I don’t really know what advice I can give you there. As for clear being tacky, basically touch somewhere on it (ideally on the masking paper or a part that gets hidden by trim or something), it will slightly stick your glove (or skin), basically once it makes the change from wet. Typically it will take 5-10 minutes. 10 minutes should have been long enough, it could also the tip size your using. Too much material too quick, if your using anything bigger then a 1.4 then you could have problems, maybe even with a 1.4. If your flooding the clear on that will cause it, if your getting runs too then theres a good chance thats whats happening…(although all painters will get the odd run, if its excessive then theres a prob).[/quote]
You’re right. I’m just still learning how not to lay my coats on too thick. I’m using a 1.4 tip. I’ve got to get it in my head that the paint will layout and I don’t have to apply every coat wet.
Thanks, Jimmo.
[quote=”Wydir” post=14705]http://www.azautobodysupply.com/betexscpa585.html[/quote]
Thanks, Wydir.
[quote=”Ben” post=14718]Maybe my eyes are bad or something…but I don’t see any solvent pop. 1 or 2 of the epics look to have fish eyes to me, though. (which would be caused by contamination).[/quote]
It’s solvent pop, from my understanding, from laying all my coats heavy / wet. This picture shows it well.
[img]http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/v8-bug-383-summit-hugger-orange-8.jpg[/img]
I’ve sprayed all my high build primers using the same setup and I didn’t have any problems. I did have the occasional water drop, but I’ve put a filter right before the gun and haven’t had any problems since.
[quote=”timbo” post=14730]Is that relabeled Kirker? Wondering cause Bloverby said it is..(not knocking just askin)
I don’t think I would have cleared anything that was solid urethane…[/quote]I’ve heard that before too. I called Summit’s tech line and talked to their paint tech. They wouldn’t reveal who makes their paint, naturally. They said, “it’s outsourced to a paint manufacturer that’s been in the business for over 150 years. People have been guessing it’s Kirker, PPG, Serwin Williams…I can’t tell you who it is.” So I got an answer without getting an answer.
At this point, I’m seeing why people either go with only the S/S or B/C. I chose to use clear as well in hopes to get a deeper shine and a little added protection.
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