Dan
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thats crazy I had no idea, never assumed that because on the cans of base/tinters(water)
and the water activator, the precautionary label pretty much says the product has not
been shown to cause immediate toxicological damage to lab animals. whereas on a can of solvent anything really, there are many health precautions on the can. I mean obviously its not good for your lungs to be breathing in paint, but I always thought water wouldnt be as harmful.. its just water lol[quote=”a1handy” post=18779]I am currently painting a 5 ft tall stripe (any white) around a greyhound bus. The customer does not have an preferences as to what type of paint I use. I figure I will use 5 to 6 gallons of sprayable material. What is the best type of paint to use and where can I get the best price?[/quote]
Ive been using quite a bit of UTECH 200 acrylic urethane lately for various things,
i think its pretty cheap but i dont know the exact price, the stuff covers pretty well
and sprays nice. not quite as durable as a polyurethane.. definitly cheaper than the imron 5000 thoughCode A2 N ?
[quote=”Ben” post=19185]I may be using Sikkens now, but I am starting to rock the accelerator as well. Speed can be good, especially when you hose it on like me :lol1[/quote]
yeah i love the accelerator, mostly just use it in the primer though.
Also tried using the superior hardener with energy pro clear, sprayed a little better
and didnt die at all 10 min at 160.[quote=”rodney79″ post=18901]Just tried the new ferecla fast track compound and glaze……I love it! I use the ferecla G3 and I like that compound as well. I finish in 2000 and buff with a wool pad, and polish with foam, the fast track is a bit slower to cut but leaves virtually no swirls. The price is killer as well, $19.95 a qt. I definitely recommend giving it a try. :rock[/quote]
yeah I like the G3 too with a wool pad and air buffer its pretty aggresive
[quote=”bobwires” post=18881]I put on 3 runny coats, and I didn’t go down to 400 everywhere. I’m pretty sure I have plenty of build on this job.
Now i know why my painter buddy in town here said he has spent as many as 10 days polishing clear! :blink:[/quote]
he must be on straight time 😆
[quote=”rodney79″ post=18855]Just curious if anyone is using the purple clean performance series sanding discs or continuous paper. My rep says its an awesome paper but leery about switching from carborundum to 3M. They claim it lasts twice as long and doesn’t clog because of the clean-out holes in the paper. Im testing it out so hope it does work a little better, Im only testing the da paper for now as the continuous requires different blocks with the holes in them. Also doing a price comparison to see if its actually worth the switch. Any feedback would be great….:cheers[/quote]
the purple clean discs were great when I used to use them, they suck up the dust pretty well.
only thing is that the vacuum bags fill up quickly (if your using them) and i found that the edges of the bag can be so
sharp that they can scratch the panel your sanding. I would agree that the purple clean lasts a lot longerI would take it down from 120 to 220 and then finally 320 to get all of the heavier scratches out.
After 2K primer has been applied, block with 320/400 and then 400 orbital and finally finish in 400 by hand,
you could go finer but its a solvent black and should cover decently. And as said, yeah i guess you could go with an epoxy primer aswell if its needed in your situation. its the ultimate in corrosion protection for sure, but the only time ive ever seen it used other than in school was for a 67 vette resto because the guy insisted on it.reducing up to 50% in pearls that sounds different from wat ive been told. I reduce 10% for solid color and 20% for
metallic and pearls strictly. i overreduced a beige color similar to the one in bens pic by about six or seven grams and the color swam bad. after that I always try to keep it dead accurate. I do agree though that first coat has to be wet nice and wet for your metallics to flow out. I only try not to put it on too wet when using the crossflow with no heat, as it takes a VERY long time to flash lolbe careful when your using your heavy cut or compound after you do your 1500, because you
are only going to get so much of your gloss back that you took out by sanding it.
Ive made the mistake before of taking too much clear off with the 1500 or 3000, then going into it
with the 3M #1 rubbing compound or trizact xtra cut (depending on the grit i finished) and torching
the clear trying to get my gloss or Distinction of image back to as it was before polishing. my 2 cents
😛[quote=”Jayson M” post=18645]Well don’t wait for Barry from SPI to give you anything for free either :rofl :rofl :rofl My jobber is great,he gave me 2 gallons of superior and hardener etc and 3 litres of autowave for my chevelle no charge :clappy But the base went bad before I got around to painting it 😛 [b]Our shop is pretty good,we don’t have to pay squat for doing our own cars,unless you are doing a write off every week[/b].Talk to your jobber or rep and tell him it is a show car and it will get attention and they will get some advertising.If they still won’t help you tell em you will use ppg and you are thinking of switching :clappy that might help loosen there belt :lol1[/quote]
that sounds pretty gravy
energy pro isnt bad, dries pretty quick, find to get a little more orange peel with the energy pro
rather than the superior, but if your not baking then you cant really use the superior it will take a year to dry
a guy on here said you can use the superior hardener on the energy pro, but i havent tried it out yet.
not a bad all around clear, not great for bigger jobshere in canada you cant even use the HS+LV or ac III as they arent voc compliant so your left with the superior 250 or energy pro.
you use probably 30% less with the 250 clearvery clean shop
that sucks bro i feel ya, im in the same sorta situation myself.
thinking about painting on the line, sick of body shop politics.