Oscar Moreno
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AND DONT DO NOTHING ON YOUR CAR UNTIL YOU ARE SURE ABOUT WHAT YOU ARE GOING TO DO! RESEARCH IS THE KEY!!!
and one last thing bro! before you go out on buying stuff! do your research first! trust me! it will pay off! i did nearly a month of research before i got my buffer and my products to the job! :rock
[quote=”BeachBill” post=18018]I forgot to ask: Please recommend the pads and towels you use to apply and wipe these products. It would be best for me to buy it all at one time if possible.
Thanks again for your help.[/quote]
Thanks! thats my boy bobby on the pic! but anyways, check this site out! http://www.tcpglobal.com/detailsupplydepot/ theres a box where it says 3” mini buffing kit! i order it and its perfect! it comes with a 5/8 backing plate! two wool pads! a swirl mark remover pad and a finishing pad! but if you want my best advice for what you are trying to do… this site isnt the place to look bro! this site offers some of the best advice on autobody collision repair such as painting advice fixing damages on cars etc. This is the best forum you can find for autobody collision repair, but for detailing cars and making your car look like glass… theres this other site! called Autogeek! these guys have the best Forum! tutorials! Videos and Online Store!!! they sell just what you need! heres the site,
http://www.autogeek.net/ and heres the forum http://www.autogeekonline.net/ feel free to join! you can find me there too! they also have a youtube channel! i really suggest you join the forums! theres always something to learn on that site![quote=”BeachBill” post=18007]I’ve never use a polisher before. Thanks for the tip. Yes, I plan to do the whole car to restore the paint. Any tips on which products to use would be greatly appreciated. I plan to go from wash all the way to wax.
Thanks in advance for your help.[/quote]
like ben said, if you are doing the whole car 6.5inch to 7 inch pads are perfect! i have a makita buffer and with an 8inch pad, that thing just man handles me, its hard to keep 8inch pads at a steady pace! but anyways, as far as products go, this is what i use and recommend!
For compound 1.Meguiar’s Ultra cut Compound m105
For swirl remover. 2. Meguiar’s Ultra finishing polish m205
For Polish. 3. Menzerna’s PO85RD Polish.
For wax.4. Collinite insulator wax 845. <—Best wax out there for $18!!!!!!!!
here are some pictures of the results ive gotten from using these products after wetsanding to remove all orange peel and then buffing![quote=”lild” post=17926]no shop should ever be that clean and tidy, to the point where you can actually find things. i’m pretty jealous. nice place. what are those robot looking thingys hang down next to each car?[/quote]
Those are cameras making sure you are working all the time! and if they catch you slacking off they whip you! :rock
[quote=”Ben” post=17575][quote=”93foxcoupe” post=17572]sounds like all great advice! im going to be doing some bodywork on it so either way im going to use primer. now my question is, after i spray the sealer i can go ahead and spray base on top of the sealer? or do i have to wait and sand down the sealer?:blink:[/quote]
Sealer is intended to be used wet on wet. Primer-surfacer is meant to be sanded. Read the tech sheet for what products you are using. Most sealers need to be topcoated within a few hours (after proper flash time). Some sealers can be left for close to 1 week. Some fill well, others don’t really fill. Some lay out smoother than others…and lastly, some can be applied over burn throughs (bare metal).
If a sealer is left too long (out of the topcoat window) it has to be sanded for adhesion. Other than that, the only reasons to sand sealer are to smooth it out (if it is not a smooth sealer and you are not happy with it) or to remove imperfections (like dust nibs, minor scratches etc)…
I highly recommend researching the product that will suit your needs. And don’t go cheap!!!
:cheers[/quote]
THANKS ALOT BEN!!! i sure will take into consideration the tips you gave me!:rocksounds like all great advice! im going to be doing some bodywork on it so either way im going to use primer. now my question is, after i spray the sealer i can go ahead and spray base on top of the sealer? or do i have to wait and sand down the sealer?:blink:
[quote=”Stone” post=16969]BMW ALPINWEISS MULTI TRAILER Code: 300 1998 – 2000 MAIN BODY
Paint Line: ONYX-HD
Formula 1 of 1MFG Code Std# NAME STOCK # Year VEH. PART
BMW 300
ALPINWEISS MULTI TRAILER MS210059 1998-2000 MBVar/XRF: Standard
Rev Date: 14-OCT-99 VOC: 3.4 LB/GAL Step: 1 Zoom In Print DownloadBase Base Name Grams Cum. Grams
HB002 HYDRO BASE 448.3 448.3
HB990 WHITE 624.1 1072.4
HB680 GOLD 7.1 1079.5
HB250 BLACK 5.4 1084.9[/quote]
Thanks alot Stone! im sure it is 300 since i did some little research already! thanks alot![quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=16560]A 3 inch pad on a big polisher isn’t hard to handle at all. I do it all the time. Meguiars sells one and the pads to go with it. I actually don’t really like bigger pads. I do alot of buffing with 3,4, and 5 inch pads.
Here is the backing plate [url=http://www.properautocare.com/w63.html]here[/url]
Here are some pads [url=http://www.properautocare.com/w4003.html]here[/url] and [url=http://www.properautocare.com/me2miglsobu4.html]here[/url]If you were wanting to dedicate a buffer specifically for this they make compact lightweight electric buffers like
[url=http://www.properautocare.com/pe142150.html]this[/url]
[url=http://www.autowerkesexclusive.com/products/Polish-Accessories/Flex-L3403VRG-Lightweight-Rotary-Polisher/index.html]this[/url]
[url=http://www.autogeek.net/metabo-circular-polisher.html]this[/url]The 3 inch pistol grip air buffers lack enough torque to do much polishing. Dynabrade makes one that I have seen Jim C recommend but it is expensive. The compact electric is actually cheaper but the dynabrade would be easier to handle.[/quote]
thanks alot ryan! im guessing im just going to run the 3” on my polisher, thanks alot for the recommendations!
gariots garage makes a 3 inch electrical buffer but its extremely weak, but im guessing i can just mount a 3 inch 5/8 back pad onto my dewalt right?
how can you guys work in such enviroment?!?! i get paranoid when i see a few trash around! i always try to keep my area spotless! i seriously feel closed in when theres trash everywhere!!! maybe something is wrong with me…:unsure:
[quote=”THE SURGEON” post=16308]be warned that if you do you 2021 dont put on the first coat like you want it to look put it on kind of pealy cuz for some reason that *** loves to hit the floor, my first time useing that clear was a nightmare, bt once you know the trick with it you can come out with real nice results, so fist coat put on a little light then after that you can put it on how you want it and it stays, dont know why but thats how it seemed to work best for me[/quote]
you are very correct! i used some the other day to spray a panel my brother airbrushed and a helmet that was airbrushed as well! me never having used this clear before i layed down a wet coat to begin with and and then 2 more on the panel! the panel came out great, but the helmet was a mess! i got some nasty runs! next time ill start with a tack coat and build my way from there! thanks for the info!
[quote=”Canuck” post=16262]I have to admit that that video has me thinking that this gun would be perfect for a garage painter like me. One of the things I love about my Iwata is that it doesn’t leave me in a fog in the “booth”. I don’t use it for priming I’ve got a DeVilbiss FLG-3 for that…but it sure is tempting.[/quote]
i just recently bought me that 3m gun for priming and i loved it, it lays down the primer so well! it sure isn’t a bad investment!
we better see some pictures lild! how much did you pay?
what a beautiful gun! as far for the contamination make sure you only clean your surface with wax % grease remover before you start painting, apply it and with another rag wipe it off. A tack rag is also necessary, if you have some around, tack it before you shoot it! and make sure to tack it between coats, you would be surprised how much little garbage is on your surface! :rock
