Thomas Robertson
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Thanks and I enjoy and learn a lot from your videos, I hope you keep them coming
Mine was in an aerosol as well, I think I will try some BASF. Thanks
I will try another blending clear but do you think I might get better results by mixing my on blending clear from the clear I used or baking the paint for awhile before I attempt the repair. I agree that the smell of the SEM was strange strange and was a strong odor.
I am in SC and was told by the state agency in charge of implementing this mandate that the only exemptions are for: shops doing work for the armed forces, hobbists (less than two cars per year), using a small cup and those spraying paints that do not include heavy metals. I hope you are right about an exemption. I will check.
Actually you have until 2011 to comply only if you were spraying in your shop prior to July, 2008. If you started spraying in your shop after that time you have to file and “Initial notification” no later than Jan 11 of 2010. If I understand correctly you would then have 180 days from that day to comply. There are a couple of pages on the EPA website that goes into more details. Does anyone have any information on what we have to do to obtain a “painters training certificate”. which we have to have to comply as well?
If is a federally mandated change implemented by the EPA. However, as I understand it, different states are implementing the mandate at different times.
I have been using it for several weeks now and really love it. Started with it for the price as well. On the can it was referred to as Brilliant clear and it stands up to that name. As far as buffing, I had no problem, one of the best I have used.
Thats a possibility, according the the product data sheet they are virtually the same but did not check on whether or not it was California compliant. I can get a real good price on it so I am gonna give it a try and hope for the best. I have used the 720 and 710 and I like them
Thanks, I think I will apply another coat. Do you think I could us Upol OK since that is what I am used to and since the care is already sanded and buffed with compound, shouldn’ that suffice for resanding.
Thanks for your reply. The car was painted 4 days ago but I attempted to buff it with in the first 36 hours and had the same problem then. I have tried several different compounds and pads with no success. The color is a Forest Green metallic. The clear I used was manufactured by Kirker and was the first time I had used it. The buffer I use is an eight in circular. I have tried wool and foam pads with the same results. I have been color sanding for years and have not experienced this before. The compound is good, I believe since it has not separated and I have been working on areas no larger than 2′ by 2′. I am beginning to believe that this particular brand of clear is extremely hard and will not allow the scratches to be buffed out. I am seriously considering reclearing the whole car with a clear I am more familiar with. Any suggestions first?
I finally got in touch with the guy who had done the work up to this point. He says that he sprayed etching primer from a rattle can to keep the car from rusting. That is what is on the car at this point. I am afraid that will turn into problems so I am considering removing what is on the vehicle now and starting from scratch.
PP&G- When you say wet on wet you mean spray the base immediately after the epoxy. Do not wait unitl it drys and scuff. How many coats would you recommend of the epoxy
Since the customer insists on Epoxy somewhere in the process and it already has a coat of something on the bare metal, where shoud the epoxy be applied. Should urethane be sprayed and blocked and epoxy sprayed as the final coat before paint. Or is expoxy basicly useless at this point unless stripped down to metal and applied then. How would you suggest this project be accomplished at this stage since something has already been applied over the bare metal?