Ben

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  • April 8, 2010 at 9:43 pm #20568

    Guide Coat and blocked the Epoxy Primer with 150 Grit

    [IMG]http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b11/ChuckVR6/DSC06564.jpg[/IMG]

    [IMG]http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b11/ChuckVR6/DSC06565.jpg[/IMG]

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    [IMG]http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b11/ChuckVR6/DSC06568.jpg[/IMG]

    April 7, 2010 at 5:48 am #20549

    [b]JCClark wrote:[/b]
    [quote]Good job :pcorn:

    I got some red fenders that match that VW :rofl[/quote]

    I was wondering who stole my fenders :exci

    March 29, 2010 at 5:49 am #20440

    [b]Underpaid Painter wrote:[/b]
    [quote]I know its too late now but I have had good luck with duramix 4247 ridgid plastic reair filler. Its made to rebuild or make new bumper tabs that have broke off. its good stuff. 3M makes a mesh that has a clear backing on it, you line the area you want to fill with it or use it as a backer. Apply the filler and it sets up very fast. Sand it smooth, put a couple of coats of primer on it and your good to go.[/quote]

    Thanks for the tip. I may get asked to do this type of thing for somebody else so I’ll keep the duramix plastic filler in mind. It sounds durable if its used for making tabs.

    I was concerned about only throwing any filler into those deep tray channels due to shrinking and cracking. I figured using the same type of plastic and melting/meshing it into the side walls of the channels would be most effective for long term durability for exposure to engine heat.. But, I guess time will tell.

    March 26, 2010 at 9:41 pm #20405

    I can’t believe i missed this being done. I gave up on visting the thread because there were no updates :silly:

    Great Work BondoKing!

    March 26, 2010 at 4:20 pm #20403

    I know its been a while but I wanted to follow up on the steps I took to shave these trays. I ended up plastic welding the trays with ABS filler and then used Evercoat’s Poly Flex Bumper Filler to do the final smoothing.

    One thing I fought was warping. I had to “tack” in the plastic and let it cool and then move on. Kind of like metal welding. It took forever but kept the majority of the trays straight during the process. I had to crack the front tray to unwarp it and the reweld it back up.

    They turned out better than I thought.

    I’ll lay down some Epoxy Primer this weekend and then block them out again. Follow up with another session of Epoxy Primer and then maybe go with a Flat Black or Urethane Single Stage Gloss Black. Still trying to decide on that.

    Later, -Ben

    [IMG]http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b11/ChuckVR6/Parts%20Sale/Body%20Work/DSC06195.jpg[/IMG]

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    November 7, 2009 at 10:05 pm #16844

    Thanks guys. Great advice. I think I knew better than to let it sit on there for two days but was so excited about finally getting the color on that I totally forgot about this detail. I have learned so much through the process.

    September 11, 2009 at 8:42 pm #15878

    [b]jimmo wrote:[/b]
    [quote]if it’s just fingerprints you can just use an alcohol based cleaner. 900 will work too but it’s heavier for removing wax.[/quote]

    Thanks. Can you name something specific for an alcohol based cleaner?

    July 22, 2009 at 8:32 pm #14945

    Did anybody have problems with the weldable primer catching on fire while welding? It would flare up and then put itself out. Usually I would blow on the tack weld and it would quickly go out. Maybe it was the Epoxy primer around the weldable primer I laid down behind the rocker panel before I tacked it in.

    July 22, 2009 at 8:27 pm #14944

    Good idea with the Rubber Bands Jimbo.

    Any updates on this beast?

    July 20, 2009 at 9:13 pm #14935

    I have used the Copper Color wedable primer by SEM. I figure it couldn’t hurt like mentioned above, especially in areas where you can’t get to the backside to treat after the spot repair.

    June 16, 2009 at 3:42 pm #14726

    I have been using DP800 – DIMENSION Epoxy Primer on my current project and it lays down nice.

    [IMG]http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b11/ChuckVR6/DSC05117.jpg[/IMG]

    May 3, 2009 at 11:11 pm #14198

    I think my best option is to weld plastic into the grooves/holes. I’m concerned with the heat from the engine about cracking if I went with some type of filler. Maybe I won’t have to skim the plastic, after welding, with some type of filler to do the final smoothing.

    I’ll just have to jump into it and see how it goes.

    Thanks for the advice…..

    April 15, 2009 at 12:13 am #13972

    [b]alexflacco wrote:[/b]
    [quote]I hope you get back in there and shoot your paint while you are still within your window on the epoxy, or you are in for a lot of scuffing:silly:

    [/quote]

    What is the window for Epoxy? I always thought the longer you let Epoxy Sit, especially in the sun, the better. Wouldn’t there be less shrinking after laying down color?

    April 2, 2009 at 6:20 pm #13756

    Looking great B-King.
    Jim and I have been talking about clear. I plan to use it on my Golf soon. What do you think about their Base Coats? I was planning on buying my base there too.

    March 27, 2009 at 3:59 pm #13599

    Smooth as a baby’s bottom. Nice Job. Man I need access to a facility like that :cheer:

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