Andy Taylor
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If it’s the same Pro Spray as we get in the UK then I’ve used it on occasion, and the products I’ve used were good for the price. Solvent base covered well and the colour matching was good enough on the limited number of jobs I’ve done. The single stage is something else though. I’ve done two jobs in solid red, a Peugeot 205 and a Toyota van, and I was amazed at how well it covered. One light and one full coat was enough, pretty good for a red and much better than any product I’ve used recently, including NEXA, DeBeer and Autowave water bases. It didn’t have quite the same gloss as a decent base & clear job, but it buffs up lovely.
Nice blend.
Is there a definite seam or line to work to on the body, or is it a case of making your own line where the two colours meet?
If there’s a seam I’d be tempted to do the roof first in high solids (2K / single stage) first, then do the bottom. That’s how I do “classic” mini’s
If you’re having to make your own line then I’d do as Ben has outlined in his last paragraph, but with the top half being white I’d probably base the the whole of such a small car. Reason being you’ll need several coats of white to cover, and that much dry overspray landing on the lower half may give you too rough a texture to base over with your blue. No need for full coverage of white on the bottom, just enough paint to stop the possible dry overspray problem, so maybe do alternate coats, one on just the top, one all over. It may not be necessary, but I’d rather not take the risk for a few quids worth of extra base.
As Ben says, let that dry really well before you go near it with tape, and leave the tape on there for as short a time as possible so it doesn’t mark the white. An intercoat clear could be used over the white to protect it from the masking, but since it is a solid colour you’d get away with some minor fine sanding if the worst does happen and you get a small tape mark.
Good luck! 🙂
Yep, I’ve done a couple of 75 seater coaches using the same method. It ain’t pretty but it works 🙂
And it was the only way to get to the middle of the roof on this van, swinging on a ladder
[IMG]http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Work/Jumbo1.jpg[/IMG]
It’s always hard to tell from a picture, but something like Interlagos Blue might be pretty close. Will keep to the BMW theme too. The code for it is A30.
[img]http://s3-media3.ak.yelpcdn.com/bphoto/BksLeJH5tmr40hQ6vV3AEw/l.jpg[/img]
Or maybe something like Rover Tahiti Blue (JRJ), but that hasn’t got the same redness in it.
Hi Paul, actually I’m neither self employed nor franchised 🙂
I work for Evans Halshaw, one of the largest dealer chains in the country. I got into this late but from what I gather they shut down most of their bodyshops as they were uneconomical. In their place they set on a bunch of guys to do the small repairs on site instead. Unfortunately I’m one of the very few that doesn’t have a place to work inside a building, since the site I am based at is rather short on space. Most of the lads work inside the old bodyshop facilities or a valet bay or similar so don’t have the same problems I do. Hence it not being something the company has really encountered before or had need to address.
I hear what you’re saying and I’ve been in the trade long enough to know the potential pitfalls which is why I’m trying to do something about it. I’ve no choice but to paint in unfavourable conditions however, so I need to make it work one way or another.
Let’s hope I’m out of this job sooner rather than later though! I’m still pursuing a very exciting job offer that I’ve had but it involves a move abroad and a complete lifestyle change so I’m taking it slowly.
Yes, I did think about that thanks but don’t fancy the idea of leaving something switched on when the van is unattended.
I have to leave the van on site for insurance reasons rather than taking it home so it’s a good 15-20 minute drive away. I think I’d be worried about it catching fire or something 😆
What I’m going to do is knock together an insulated storage box for the temperature sensitive stuff. That should help most of the time, and if we do get any really cold nights like we did last year (-16°C, about 3°F) then I’ll bring them home with me or try and find somewhere within the site building to keep them.
[quote=”lild” post=28894]Dude get u one of those jet type kero heaters, to keep the tent warm. I know it sucks in the cold weather, u using speed clear?[/quote]
I’ve linked to the clear above 🙂
A jet heater would be a good idea. I have a huge diesel one at the shop where I do my “weekend” work.
To be honest I can manage the cold, but I’m more worried about the products really. I spilt a bit of the WB activator on my scales yesterday and this morning it was a frozen lump. I hate to think what this cold is doing to the base itself. When I used Lechler and DeBeer both warned that under no circumstances should the tinters be subjected to frost but I don’t know about autowave. It’s a pretty safe assumption that it should be kept above freezing, but I don’t know for certain.
I even had to defrost my base gun this morning as I must have left a drop or two of water in it overnight and it had frozen solid 😆
I’m quite liking the Autowave. Of course its hard to tell what it’s like in the real world as I’m only spraying small areas most of the time but it certainly blends out very easily without any special tricks. Colour matching has been pretty good so far too, which I’m more than happy with considering I’m mixing such small amounts (0.05litres ~2oz most of the time) so percentage errors on the scales will be high.
Clear is a brand I’ve never heard of. No match for a quality clear but nearly every job needs buffing to within an inch of it’s life anyway to remove all the dust, dirt and small animals that get blown into it 😆
http://tradegroup.co.uk/products/paints/clear-coats/anti-scratch-clear-coat/
Great vid and a catchy tune!
Do you sign all of your work? 😆
I’ve worked in many different types of booth, old & new, good & bad.
In order of which is best (in my humble opinion) a full downdraught has to come top. Then there was what I think is called a side floor. Top inlet with full length extracts along the bottom of the side walls. Very similar to a full downdraught if you can’t have a pit. Then I’d say rear extract, with a side extract being bottom of my list.
By “best” I mean in terms of uniformity of airflow and temperature throughout the booth. The side exit one I was in for a few years was terrible for this. The warm air would flow in from the roof and straight out to one side, leaving lots of dead cold air on the opposite side. So when clearing one side of the car could be hand slick ready for another coat and the other would still be wet enough to flow. A recipe for runs!!! Working in there did teach me a lot about reading a booth though and figuring out where the dead spots were, but clearly not ideal conditions.
There are always going to be compromises though, either through space or budget, so you may find a less than “perfect” solution might actually suit your situation best 🙂
I’ve also heard Ryan mention it a few times and it’s certainly something I’d try if I got my own place.
I can’t remember exactly but I think he used the stuff that’s suitable for outdoor use. More durable and washable I’d guess 🙂
I’ve had mixed reviews of the 3M dirt trap product. Some say it works really well (on walls) but others have said they’ve stripped it off real quick as it was causing more problems than it was curing.
Wow that’s really bad.
Looking on the bright side, at least you can definitely see it’s caused by surface contamination through improper cleaning, rather than being an airborne problem. There’s little point me going through what has already been described perfectly well above, but suffice it to say – clean, clean, and clean again 🙂
[quote=”Idunnit” post=28668]
I had never thought of using the foam tape on the back of the door instead of the jamb itself,I think that would work pretty good, that would keep me from having to buy so much transistion tape. I think I will try this out tomorrow and see how it works.[/quote]
Not sure if you guys get different packaging but here in the UK instructions on using it that way are printed on the box. I find it works much better that way with absolutely no chance of a hard edge if you get too near to the glue. And as Ryan mentions it’s easy to control the depth and adjust it “on the fly” if required 🙂
I think the idea with the transition tape for jambs is to make sure it is really flush with the panel edge so there’s minimum blow-in of the sealer. Once sealed, remove the tape so that the base & clear can blow in that little bit further to your soft edge / foam tape.