Andy Taylor
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[quote=”ryan999″ post=27574]
Quite blowing dust off cars. I havent for years. I will wipe them off with waterborne degreaser after sanding. Once they appear clean then i will blow out the cracks. To conserve on cleaner just cut it with water some or use glass cleaner. You will go through more rags so keep some cheap ones or use microfiber ones and wash them.
[/quote]I’d highly recommend this too.
Although I use vacuum sanders there’s still a bit of dust left about so I’ll wipe as much as I can off with a microfiber cloth then blow out the edges.
And as Ryan also says, a sander and blocks with dust extraction capabilities are what you really need. Control as much of it at the source as possible.
[quote=”ding” post=27550][quote=”ryan999″ post=27549]PM Sent[/quote]
What. you can share with the rest of us :huh:[/quote]It always makes me laugh that it seems to be made such a big secret over there 😆
Clean your guns properly and you’ll never have need of it 😉
Exactly Ryan.
It must be a product thing as I was plenty happy before the new tinters came out. After that I just couldn’t get it to work as well as I would have liked.
It must have had something to do with the much higher pigment ratio, which is probably why I could even it out with a quick light coat, but the Sata does it in one with no messing 🙂
[quote=”pierceg” post=27531]Well if your Sata uses less material, why don’t you lower the material in the Iwata. [/quote]
I tried that, but all it did was slow the gun down really. It still didn’t give the same results as the SATA 🙂
if you read through my recent topic I’ve finally seen the light and just switched to an NR2000 after years of Iwata guns, and I’ve been very impressed with the results 🙂
http://www.refinishnetwork.com/home/forum/7-paint-and-refinish/26813-eating-my-words-sata-convert
Yes, I know I’ve been a bit slow to catch on 😆
At first I was disappointed to see that it wasn’t a digital, but to be honest it feels more balanced in my hand with a regulator / air valve stuck on the bottom, especially with a full PPS pot on top, so I think I’ll be sticking with it for a while.
I haven’t used it on a really big job yet but yesterday I did the side and two bumper covers on one of these in the same light gold colour, and it turned out better than anything I’ve done for a while
[img]http://motoburg.com/images/suzuki-grand-vitara-16-jlx-02.jpg[/img]
And of course because I’m not messing around with semi dry coats the base lays flatter too, meaning the clears flows better on top too. Win win :cheer:
If it’s speed you’re after then stick with the RP. The high delivery versions of the WS400 Supernova come close (and give a marginally better finish IMHO) but the RP definitely has the edge on speed.
I have a separate bake oven adjacent to the booth. Because of the way I work it’s rarely off long enough for it to cool down fully so generally I’ll switch it on just before I apply my second coat of clear and by the time that’s done I’m ready to slide the car straight into an air temp of 80°C
I’ve never checked how long it takes the panels to reach 60°C but after 30 minutes they are hard enough to handle and can be buffed as soon as they are cool.
The spray booth also has a bake facility and I add an extra 3 or 4 minutes for that to heat up.
As a rule, absolutely not.
There are the very rare occasions where something has been missed or something goes wrong when painting and I’ve got no choice, but wherever possible I keep the dirty work outside 🙂
I’d use some 3M Smooth Transition Tape on the body line. Job done 😉
[quote=”Ben” post=26799]I was also going to question what you did to match the colour…did you look at any different variants?[/quote]
That was going to be my question – are you sure it’s the primer that’s causing the problem. It might just be that the colour itself isn’t right.
I use Debeer and they have 4 major shade variations, and a couple of field formulas, so Tornado Red isn’t always Tornado Red if you get my drift.
We dry sand wherever possible.
Sometimes I don’t think you can beat a bit of wet sanding for more feel on a complex shape, but on the whole we sand our primer with 500 on the DA, or 400 for dark or solid colours.
Since you’re from the UK Sach I’d highly recommend Mirka sanders. We’ve had 4 of them at work for 4 years now. They are on the go most of the day and we haven’t had a single failure yet. We also have one of their 2.5mm orbit finish sanders, and one of the mini 77mm units.
I also own a large and small one myself, which again have never given me any trouble.
http://dpt.mirka.co.uk/tools/palm_sanders.php
ROS650CV is the one to go for if you’re only having one, or the DB model if you want it to catch some dust 🙂
If you don’t have a large compressor or simply prefer electric, look at their CEROS sanders. Amazing little tools with much more power than you’d imagine!!
Well it seems to have solved my problem of the forum never remembering me, and having to log back in every time I visit.
Thanks :dnc
[quote=”Nexson” post=26648]I have followed your videos on youtube, you do some nice work, we just need you to get away from the aersol primers! :P[/quote]
Hey, I use them for 90% of my work :p
As long as you treat them right and don’t expect them to cover much (I go 320 at least) some aren’t as bad as you think. We use Kent Ultrafill, available in several colours, and I wouldn’t be without it 🙂
Nice job fella. Came out really nice!