Andy Taylor
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[quote=”nick@dunsdale” post=25028]
Leaving parts on should not really affect any painter, mirrors can be a pest if you forget they are there and suddenly your spray gun stops dead and whoops lol, i am sure all painters have had this happen at some point or another.[/quote]
Once or twice :whistle: :blush:I completely agree with you though Nick, it shouldn’t make a great deal of difference to the painter if parts are left on. More work for whoever is doing the masking of course (more accuracy required), but that shouldn’t affect the painter.
Most of our stuff is done like that, and I have a general rule of thumb: If it’s quicker to remove than mask up, then off it comes. If it’ll unduly affect the quality of the job by staying in place, then again it comes off. Other than that everything gets taped up and I paint around it 🙂
One question – how long are you giving these painters to settle in?
Moving to a new job, new products, new booth etc is bound to be a challenge for even the best painter, and it might take them several jobs to get into the swing of things. They’ll need to learn how the products work first, then get to grips with the fluctuations inside the spray booth. Even my fairly high spec 4 year old full downdraft booth doesn’t have perfectly uniform airflow and temperature. If I do get a run I know it’s going to be in the left hand rear corner, as that’s the (relative) cold spot. To counteract this I try to start my first coat of clear in that corner, and finish my second coat there. That gives the longest possible flash time between coats in that area. Maybe they just need to get used to reading your booth in a similar way, which only comes with practice.
I’m not trying to defend them as I don’t know them, but trying to suggest possible reasons for the problems you are having. And if they’ve been there months, then just ignore me :lol1
Better late than never..
[IMG]http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Random/P1010519Large.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Random/P1010522Large.jpg[/IMG]
All it had was a good clean and I changed the needle packing to cure the sticky needle. The old one had collapsed and there was a brand new one in packet in the pot!!
Sprays really well now after scrubbing out all of the holes. Good shape & size to the fan, with just a hint of a crescent to it. For what this guys going to use it for (spraying a ’68 VW in 2K single stage) it’ll be fine, and not bad at all considering how old it must be.
Yes the heat generally comes through the inlet filters on a “real” spraybooth.
Youe idea sounds good for when you are spraying, but not sure about the bake cycle. Most booths work by drawing fresh air in when on spray and heating it before it enters the actual booth before getting extracted outside. When on bake cycle they recirculate most of the air – drawing the warm air from inside the booth and heating it some more. The air goes round and round getting heated more and more each time which is how they get to such high cure temperatures. If you can work that bit out too you’re sorted 🙂
Might be worth looking at something like this:
I’d have thought a litre would be fine for that, but since you have the EZR spare then it won’t hurt to do your first light coat in that, then wet up with the Reflex. It’s the kind of thing I do a lot of at work.
EZR has a fair bit of 913VF in it if I remember right. Being a very fine silver that tinter covers extremely well, and as a result is found in quite a few of the popular DeBeer undercoats (904 for white, 314 for bright reds etc.)
If you ever want it, I’ve formulated my own undercoat for the poor covering silvers that can be added into the custom colours database. Although I think the latest software update allows you to mix their HSS grey shades in water base, instead of just primer.
[quote=”pierceg” post=24913]Who here measures viscosity before they paint a car they want to be glass flat without buffing? [/quote]
I can safely say that in 17 years of painting I’ve never once used a viscosity cup for any kind of job. Sure I’ve sometimes stirred it up and looked at how well it runs off the stick, but that’s hardly scientific!
As Jason says, follow the tech sheet 🙂
[quote=”turbo t” post=24906]spraying some la7w and la5w today i will let you know how it goes[/quote]
Have fun with the Reflex 😆 To be fair I’ve always found it to be a really good match. It’s one of the few silvers I’ll risk edge to edge. But boy is it transparent!
It’s around 50% 913C (one of their worst covering silvers), 30% 913B (another poor one) 10% flop control agent, with the rest being made up of bits and bobs of black, white and blue. (Can you tell I mix a lot of it?! :blink: )
A light grey primer or undercoat will really help, but if not just allow yourself an extra coat or two and you’ll be fine. Can’t wait to get the new high-strength silvers and see how much difference they make, especially to two of the colours I spray the most – Reflex Silver and Star Silver (157), which has even more 913C in it.
And your idea for keeping the paint warm sounds good. A really small heater would do it as they don’t need to be particularly warm, just not cold 🙂
Hi there :welc
The water base absolutely must be kept from freezing, and as said, at as stable a temp as you can.
With that very high solid clear you have you’ll definitely benefit from keeping it at a decent temperature. Coming in on a cold winter morning and spraying the clear when it actually feels cold to the touch will really make it hard work. I keep mine on the heated shelves of my mixing scheme now (~ 20°C) and you can really tell the difference.
I’m trying to work a solution out for the unit where I do my private work. It’s completely unheated and last winter I was spraying at very close to freezing point. I had to sit my base and clear in some luke warm water before I could get it to spray!! I’ve thought about a cheap cupboard lined with insulation, then one of those temperature controlled warming mats you get for reptile tanks in the bottom.
I did a couple of years in a makeshift booth with a space heater. It was propane rather than diesel, but still the same kinda thing.
We had inlet filters in the doors at one end, with extract at the opposite end. We’d have the space heater inside the booth but pointed to fire across the inlet filters. That way the incoming air was warmed by the hot stuff from the heater, but the heater itself wasn’t pointing directly at the car so didn’t blow crap into it.
Hope that makes sense. I’ll try and draw a picture if it doesn’t 🙂
This topic still here? :pcorn:
Shit Ryan, now I know what I’ve been doing wrong all these years!
Cheers bud :whistle:
[quote=”pierceg” post=24797] And yes obviously I will get better with practice but the thing about practice is that [b]I’ll just be doing the exact same thing over and over[/b].[/quote]
But that’s the point, at first. Consistency is the key. Once you can produce exactly the same finish time after time, then you can move on to tweaking. As mentioned above, don’t change loads of things every time, but perhaps try half a turn in or out on the fluid and see if that’s better or worse for you. Then maybe try altering your speed or maybe spray distance. Again, change only one thing at a time and see how it goes. Keeping a note of the various changes can be helpful, as later on you might want to start doubling up on the changes – like less fluid output combined with slower speed.
But first of all I’d get yourself some decent products that you’re going to stick with, as changing (for example) clearcoat may well require you to start the above process all over again.
You may think we’re being hard on you by not disclosing the magic ingredient you need to give you that edge you’re so desperately looking for, but we are. It’s been mentioned many times, and there is absolutely no substitute for it. No Holy Grail, no magic combination of twists and turns on the gun. Just keep plugging away until you find what best suits [b]you[/b], the equipment [b]you[/b] are using, the products [b]you[/b] have, and the environment [b]you[/b] spray in.
Best of luck,
Andy 🙂What a cutie!
Congrats :cheers
As above – in the past I’ve chipped the bulk off with a hammer, then finished with a grinder if needed.
Nowadays I mask them up wherever I can.