Andy Taylor
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[quote=”ARTSPRAY” post=34689]just a mask is not enough you alsoe need the fresh air set ups to preclean the compressed air before it gets to the carbon filter on the mask which is only there as back up not a primary filter system ,and to put things bluntly im fucked if i would wear a used mask ,the old sprayer may have had the clap TB or AIDS for all you know[/quote]
100% with you on this. I wouldn’t dream of sharing a mask with anybody!
Same with the air. We have ours inspected every 3 months to check it for oil vapour, CO levels and other such nasties. The belt filter should be thought of as a last line of defence.
That’s a peach :unsure:
Ha ha, thanks Jason. It was a busy shift for sure!
Of course, working that quickly means most of my jobs lack the finesse that many of you guys put in, but I’ve resigned myself to the fact that that’s what this place needs. I’d say more than half of them need some kind of polishing work after painting to remove the dust, but then that situation isn’t helped by the push-through booth. It would be great to leave the cars undisturbed after painting like Paintwerks advises, but unfortunately I have to open a 20′ long roller shutter door and slide the cars sideways into the oven. Even the cleanest jobs can’t survive that kind of disturbance.
One thing I can say for sure though is that no matter what we do inside the booth as painters, prep work has a great deal to do with how clean the final job turns out. I carry out the same cleaning procedure on every car but some turn out much cleaner than others, depending on how they have been prepped. If the dust extraction equipment has been used to full effect, if the jobs have been kept clean and blown off well as they go along, it definitely shows in the end result.
Oh, and here are some snails in action :woohoo:
[img]http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Work/2014-03-14104533Large_zps8486d829.jpg[/img]
You can’t see it in that picture but I’ve also used soft foam down the gap between the door and wing/fender. Not normally easy to do but the new 3M stuff makes it a breeze.
[quote=”Paintwerks” post=34655]S
12. Not to pick on AndyT, but you should also backmask any holes such as turn signal openings, washer jet openings, [i]licence plate openings[/i] etc. The air pressure from the gun can dislodge dirt on the backside of the panel as it creates negative pressure/suction and it can pull dirt back into the job.
[/quote]Well spotted mate. You got me 😆
Normally we fill holes like that with a “snail”. Also useful for the holes where door handles have been removed and the other small openings you mention. A “snail” is a piece of soft foam tape, rolled up with the glue to the outside, making it look a bit like a snail shell. These can then be compressed into the hole and the glue holds them in place.
You’ve included some really good tips there, although we’d probably go out of business if I changed my paint suit every couple of jobs! I painted 17 cars today (60 panels in total), so that would be one hell of a lot of suits in a week :rofl
Here’s one I did earlier showing how I like to mask wheels:
[img]http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Work/2014-03-10165025Large_zpsf65fdda3.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Work/2014-03-10165036Large_zps8ce95fa5.jpg[/img]
Now that’s how to mask a wheel! :dnc
I hate wheel covers and tend either wrap them in fresh 36″ paper, or if I’m feeling generous I’ll back mask off the inner side of the wheel arch lip and cover with plastic sheeting.
If I can add a couple of things for the water users:
Don’t walk in front of the air blowers!
Keep them clean, covering them up with a small plastic bag when not in use, and when you first switch them on make sure they aren’t blowing directly at a panel just in case a bit of dirt or dust gets blown out.
I wouldn’t say it does take longer to dry myself. Quite the opposite in fact, that’s one of the main reasons I prefer waterborne!
For instance if I’m blowing some base on a small area I can fan it off with air from the gun and be tacking off and applying another coat in less than 30 seconds. Try doing that with solvent.
Larger jobs can take a bit longer if you haven’t got sufficient air movement in your booth as most of us can only blow dry one area at a time, but I still feel it’s much quicker than solvent. For instance, this morning I painted a 10 panel job on a Ford Mondeo. The front end, one full side, rear bumper cover and the roof. After throwing on my (only) wet coat of base I turned to booth temp up to 35°C to help it along (no blowers were used) and went to get myself a coffee. 5 minutes later (after turning the temperature back down!) the base was dry and I was applying the drop coat, then by the time I’d mixed up some clear it was ready to go on. So less than 30 minutes from first pulling the trigger and it was on bake. Not exactly slow for such a large job. In fact it had taken longer to sheet it up and clean / tack it down than it did to paint.
Sure I’m blessed with a good booth and a quick drying base, but I’d never consider waterborne to be slow :rock
^^ I run mine through the gunwash machine weekly, giving them a good scrub.
I think I’ve been on the wet stuff exclusively for around 9 years now, and put simply, for use in a booth it would take wild horses to drag me back to using solvent as I think water is superior in every way.
Maybe I’ve just been lucky with the brands I’ve used, but I can’t imagine why anyone would ever look back to be honest. Sure there’s an amount of investment needed, but if you already have a booth with decent airflow then it’s only a minor one for some air movers / blowers / dryers, and maybe a dedicated base gun if you don’t have one already, but for me the benefits far outweigh those costs.
Waterborne base does tend to be more expensive though, which could be a problem if you can’t pass that on to your customer.
Erm.. Mine only get fully stripped once a week, if that :blush:
Clear gun usually gets a good rinse out after every job, although sometimes I know I’ll be clearing again in less than 15 minutes if I have a few quick jobs lined up so I don’t bother, I’ll just leave the clear in it (in PPS cups).
Base gun gets treated even worse. I’m not proud of it but If I have a run of similar coloured cars I won’t even rinse it out between jobs, I’ll just swap the PPS cup and blow the new colour through for a few seconds :whistle: I’ve been known to go a full day doing that (say 10,12,14 jobs) and even line the cars up in order to facilitate it, starting with silvers early on then moving to greys then blacks as the day goes on. I will [b]always[/b] give it good clean before spraying a non-metallic though, or use a different gun entirely.
Sorry! Feel free to flame me about it :chair
Number 8 certainly made a difference for me a while back. I used to just lay the hose on the floor when I’d finished, but a few months ago I started hanging it up instead and it did seem to make a difference.
I’m now using an air fed mask where the main hose plugs into my belt so only have the short hose from belt to gun to worry about, but I’m even tacking that off before painting now.
Number 10 is a new one on me (not blowing during final tack). Might have to give it a try
Looks cool, I’ve been following progress on Facebook.
There do seem to be a couple of fairly important parts missing though 😆
As Ben does, I’ll spray in from the back first wherever possible. I rarely alter my gun settings, just apply in short burst to build up the required thickness without going too far.
How do. :welc
Thanks guys.
I’m waiting to have a look at the new Devilbiss pro one before deciding, but we’ve been sent an Iwata one to try out. I can’t even get the spray hose to stay attached to the belt! Keeps popping off which isn’t exactly helpful :deadhorse