Andy Taylor
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OK then, if you already have the paint then there’s no reason why you can’t clear over your white, but firstly you don’t really have a lot to gain from doing so, and second you’ve got to think about how much money you’re actually going to save.
Yes you’ll have to buy some white base instead of using what you have, but as Nick says if you go 2K white and then clear it you’ll have to prep it twice, mask it twice, paint it twice etc etc. which all costs time and money 🙂
Either stick with just the 2K white, or go base & clear.
Unless you already have your solid white just do as suggested and go base & clear 🙂
Hi Kieth, I’m a few miles south of the border from you, but closer than many of the guys here lol.
Nick is probably the nearest active member to you.
Looks like a copy of the SATA one, which I’ve heard works well but unless you’re doing a lot of different coloured jobs at the same time and don’t want to leave the booth, it isn’t really that much of a time saver.
Let’s be honest, there’s plenty of time to clean out a base gun in a conventional washer while you’re doing the clear, or vice versa 🙂
Yes.
But I’ve had some not so good results too.
I’d be interested to hear how you get on with the new high delivery (1.3HD) gun. I’ve heard of one person that actually found the regular set up quicker, as he had to take a little more time with the HD to get the same finish.
I’ve finally tracked down some demo guns, so I’ll be able to try the base version myself at last. My W400WBX is still doing the job for me, but the fluid tip is getting a bit worn after the hammering it’s had. It’s been a very gradual decline that I’ve just compensated for, but I’m definitely having to work a little harder to get the results I had when it was minty fresh.
Bearing in mind that the set up is 3 years old next month, and during that time it must have been used for 8 – 10 thousand jobs :blink: I think it’s done all right for itself, and deserves a rest :rofl
[quote=”part timer” post=22055] or would’nt it be better painting 1 and a half doors then just spraying over the area thats left ?[/quote]
That’s what he means. Don’t stop or make your overlap on a panel edge, do it a few inches into the next panel. Or better still walk the car and do the whole lot in one go 😉As others have said though, it sounds like you’ve got too much material going on in the first place. I’ve never had an edge champagne on me when the panel was air dried.
[quote=”chevman” post=22041]Sorry about that, you are correct. I’m just learning the newer guns and paints, but when I grow up I want to be as good as Andy T[/quote]
:blink: I hope that’s sarcasm 😆
I may be fast, but I never said I was any good :rofl
I agree Nick.
The Abralon pads we use don’t last 2 minutes dry.
Not with 600, no.
As a rule it would be 1500 dry on the DA, then 2000 or 3000 wet to reduce/ refine the sanding scratches to make buffing much quicker and easier.
I’ve not had to order any parts yet. I normally just keep using guns until they fall apart, which Iwata’s don’t seem to do 😆
If I did want anything I’d make [url=http://www.spraygunsdirect.co.uk/]Spray Guns Direct[/url] my first call, as they’ve been helpful in the past with other things. They don’t list anything for the WS yet, but I’m sure they’d be able to acquire them.
[quote=”chevman” post=22029]That is just about what Iwata told me. Full fuild, full fan, 4-6 inches away but they said 19 PSI max to be compliant[/quote]
Are you sure that wasn’t for the LS400 Supernova?
Glad you’re loving it now Jason :stoned
I’ve got some pictures hanging around here somewhere of the finishes I’ve gotten from it. As you say, it matches that slight factory peel perfectly which is what I need for my everyday work, but give it a few tweaks and it’ll glass out with the best of ’em.
I haven’t tried the base version, but I’m using the very similar (and well worn!) W400 WBX, and it sprays everything pretty well indeed. The cap & fluid nozzle are a bit scratched up after several thousand jobs, so could probably be even better. I need to decide whether to replace them or just treat myself to a new WS400 base :whistle:
Oh, and as a bit of a certification for the Iwata’s, after loving using my clear gun a few times myValspar / DeBeer / HOK tech guy did a full trial of them and has now ordered a base & clear pair for all their guys up and down the country to use 😉
Pretty sure that’ll be the 1.3 Jason.
As far as I’m aware, they do a 1.2, a 1.3 clear, a 1.3 base, and a 1.4. Mine has the same markings as yours on the fluid nozzle, and is definitely a 1.3. The 20015 needle fits all sorts; W400, WS400 etc.
I’m surprised to hear you find the gun slow though. As others on here know, I work in a very high production environment and regularly paint 70+ cars a week, with my record being 101 :blink: . No way would I call the WS400 slow. Not quite as fast as a SATA RP, and it doesn’t hose the clear on like a GTI Pro, but that isn’t the idea. The gun atomises so well that you can get away with using minimal product, rather than having to slap it on thick and make it flow.
Are you getting close in with it? I spray at 4″ or less from the panel, with a fast or very fast arm speed. Others that spray at a more conventional distance narrow down the extremely wide fan, which will give you the feel of more fluid output.
DA, for the same reasons given above.
If I get any major chunks of dirt then I’ll block them out first to make sure they’re flat, but the majority of the time it’s just minor nibs,so the DA works fine.
[quote=”Jayson M” post=21942]Sorry man I disagree,been painting for 25 years,water for 2.5 yrs.The only way you might have a difference is the metallics lay different in relation to how the bumper is on the rack when you paint it vs how it mounts on the car.I have used at least a dozen different paint systems over the years and I am super anal and I have never had a problem :stoned[/quote]
No worries mate, I’ll get some pictures up next time I have one so you can let me know what you think.
It’ll probably turn out to be something I’ve been doing wrong all these years :rofl
Ben – that’s the only thing I could ever put it down to – static. But if the plastic parts is attached to the car then they should really have the same amount of charge, so that was that idea shot down :hunt :silly: