Andy Taylor
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Well Jason, we must use a different kind of plastic over here as I’ve had many mismatches between metal and plastic.
Yes I know what you’re saying about the plastics being painted elsewhere is true, but many times I have painted bumpers that are still physically attached to the car, and painted the adjoining metal panel, and they are off colour. So that’s using the same paint, same spraying conditions, same panel orientation, even the same pass from the same spray gun, and the colour looks different :blink:
I admit, I have absolutely no idea why, but it happens. I’ve even 2k primed both areas at the same time, sanded it back, and painted over that to ensure a perfect substrate match, but even that doesn’t always help :deadhorse
It’s just something I’ve gotten used to :rofl
You’re asking how to perform a particular technique, but nobody seems to want to tell you 😆 Sure we all know it’s not recommended practice, but at the end of the day you want to know, so I’ll tell you how I do it:
Make sure your first coat of clear completely covers the basecoated area. When flashed, apply a second coat going slightly further, and flick the edge a little rather than stopping dead.
Then you need to reduce your clear. Many manufacturers have a fade out blender, but it’s really just a very slow reducer, so if you haven’t got a proper blender, just use the slowest compatible reducer (thinner) you can find.
First off I’ll mix this 50/50 (1:1) with the activated clear I have left and lightly wet the dry edge you’ve created above. If you want, you can then use neat blender (or your slow reducer) to wet the edge that your 50/50 mix has left. Personally I use a rattle can blender for the last step, just because it’s quicker.
Then the important thing is to make sure the area is well and truly cured before you start trying to polish / buff it.
Sheffield mate, so quite a bit further down from you.
Much closer than most of the guys on here though!
[quote=”Wydir” post=21764]
:rofl Hahaha I did but by the time I got to this post I had forgotten already dang old age lol :chair[/quote]😆 It comes to us all in the end 😆
Well the guy like the bright white pearl too, so at least he’s decided at last! Might be a few weeks before I get around to doing them but I’ll pop some pictures up (if they turn out ok :whistle: )
Thanks for all the help.
[quote=”Wydir” post=21758]you could always leave out the gold pearl :whistle:[/quote]
Did you read the first post? 😛 :lol1Tried a few this morning and I’m really liking the bright white as per Jim’s suggestion. I’ll see which the guy prefers when he gets here.
That looks great Paintwerks. For some reason it looks whiter than the picture Jim’s posted on my screen. Maybe it’s just the contrast against the black, as I’ve done a couple of Mazda’s in that colour lately and they were both a tiny bit yellow in the sun.
Thanks for the suggestions guys, looks like I’ll be spraying out a few colours today :rock
Thanks Jim.
Like you say, I can’t really make the colour out, but I’ll certainly give that a try.
:welc
Welcome to a fellow countryman (almost 😉 :lol1 )
And again, I’ve never had a problem painting right up to modern plastic, as long as it’s the right way around.
Keep the plastic nice and tight though. It’ll stop it flapping around which will reduce the risk of flaking even further, and it won’t stir up the dust as much either 😉
[quote=”jasonsdream” post=21680]the paints good,the clear sucks[/quote]
Which clear? They have several.
[quote=”Paintwerks” post=21503]You can’t base your opinion of a paint system on just one colour match. Where one colour might be great, another might be nowhere close.[/quote]
I’ve painted several thousand cars with DeBeer now and on the whole have been pretty impressed by the colour matching. Just like any scheme there are some that don’t match, but I’ve found the same with every manufacturer.[quote=”Paintwerks” post=21503] DeBeer paint is regarded as ‘bottom of the barrel’ here, with most of the good shops using PPG, Standox and Glasurit.[/quote]
I’m guessing by people that haven’t actually used it? I swapped over from ICI/NEXA Aquabase, and wouldn’t want to go back. I’ve also had painters here that have used the three paints you’ve mentioned, and they all found DeBeer much more user friendly. Just because something doesn’t have a well known name doesn’t mean it’s bad 😉
[quote=”Paintwerks” post=21503]I could be wrong, but DeBeer might be cheaper because they don’t have as many tinters in their system, so there’s colours are a ‘closest match’ based on that limitation.[/quote]
Only 52 tinters on the scheme, but as I say above I haven’t found that to be a problem as far as matching goes.[quote=”Paintwerks” post=21503]Also, what sort of support are you going to get from the manufacturer?[/quote]
I can’t speak for every user, but as one of their key accounts we get excellent support. Their computerised colour library (ICRIS) is excellent, and is the first choice for the (unbiased) tech guys I know, when they’re having trouble identifying a colour. It’s also updated over the internet on a weekly basis, so you’re never caught short without a new colour and have to mess about ringing the colour lab.In the cases of poor colour match I mention above, the guys pop round and help me tint them up (or even completely re-formulate them), and they’ll be up on the system and available worldwide within days.
I’ve only had 3 colours I can think of that weren’t even close, but one was a special edition PT Cruiser, and two Audi colours turned out to be on rogue cars, as I’ve subsequently used the standard shade of each on other cars and they’ve been fine.
As you can tell, I’m a bit of a fan 😆 but I have no wish to promote this product over any other, I’m just stating the facts based on my extensive “end user” experience of it :cheer:
[b]Nick[/b] – I had a guy here for a while that used to be a Lesonal tech guy. Just like you he liked the product on the whole, but said it was a nightmare for re-working compared to DeBeer . He much preferred Lesonal clears to the DeBeer one we have though.
I don’t know what it’s like where you guys are, but in the UK Valspar is more like a parent company that also looks after the distribution and/or technical support of DeBeer, Octoral and House of Kolors.
I agree with you smooth. With the current crop of very high solid clears, a smaller tip really helps. Thankfully I’m using Iwata though, which could atomise maple syrup if you wanted it to :rofl
As Jason says, I’ve been using it for a while now and can hardly fault it. Hiding power is sometimes a bit lacking, but that’s down to the use of less pigment to reduce the product cost. It’s something they’re working on, but with their excellent undercoat system it’s rarely a real issue.
And yes it dries really fast as long as it gets a decent airflow over it, no matter how much you pile on in one go. I rarely have a job that takes more than 30 minutes from tack rag to bake.
Repair work is easy too. Unlike many water borne bases that stay a little tacky or rubbery, this stuff just dries, and can be sanded with no problem at all. I’ve even taken a DA to it within minutes of application!
Are you using one of their clears too?
Eraser/caramel/toffee wheel – it’s all the same :dnc