Andy Taylor
Forum Replies Created
- Posts
Erm..
It’s Andy T by the way. Not sure why that post has come up as anonymous as I’m logged in :huh:
Yes, very nice indeed.
Although to me that looks more like business premises, when the idea of this thread is personal spaces :whistle:
I know the type of headlamp you mean. Rather than buy a backing plate just for the one job I’d probably hand sand around that raised area but machine as much of the rest as possible.
You could still do it by hand though, it’ll just take a little longer. I’d try going back to the 400 or 600 for a bit and just check really closely that the deep scratches have gone before moving on. Clearly this is where a guide coat comes in handy, but I’ve never tried using one on a lamp.
Hi mate, hand sanded or DA?
I recently did a set of Passat ones as parts of a How-to for an Audi forum. They were sanded with DA using my regular steps of 180 – 240 – 500 – 1000 – 2000, before polishing. If I were hand sanding I’d work through more intermediate grades as Ben suggests, plus as you switch to each new grade sand at a slightly different angle so you can see for sure that all the scratches from the previous grade have been removed.
[url=http://audisrs.com/about49266.html]The full article is here[/url], scroll down to see comments about hand sanding.
And this is a before and after. You can see how bad they were, an instant MOT fail!
[img]http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Paint%20Correction/Passat%20B5%20Headlamps/2013-10-12112727-1Large_zpsd1cbfe33.jpg[/img]
Thanks Nick, I’ll pass the info on.
He’s already started modding it a bit – a respray in Frozen White with a black roof, 22″ rims, and although it’s a panel van he’s fitted glass to the sides and rear (straight over the metalwork) as the window effect looks so much cooler but he still has the security of solid metal panels underneath.
A mates shop that I borrow at the weekend
[img]http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Work/Corolla/P1000548Large.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Work/Project%20Orange/P1000993Large.jpg[/img]
Looking good Nick, I’d love a T5 myself.
How easy was the facelift as I have a mate who’s contemplating it. Just the lamps and external panels or is the front panel different? He’s done a couple of Bolf conversions so this shouldn’t be out of his league.
That looks well set out.
No surprise to see the 3M gun on charge. That’s how they seem to spend 99% of there life! 5 minutes of action and they need the rest of the day to recover. I bit like me these days…:rofl
Very nice home set up. Better than some professional shops I’ve worked in.
Wow. The emissions control people over here would have a fit seeing that 😆
We even get a caution if they find one of the flip top lids open on a small panel wipe bottle! :wak
[quote=”Mal” post=33487] I was going to say Andy I seen they do a stone for dirt nibs and runs as mentioned in another thread but I seen u got the meguirs stuff a guy on fbook swore by the Kent set. [/quote]
The Meguairs ones were owned by a previous painter that took them with him when he left. I’ll have a look at the Kent one thanks.
As said, the blender should be applied straight away. Doing it after a partial cure is ineffective, and, as you’ve found out, can be disastrous.
HVLP stands for High Volume Low Pressure. 3 Bar is a long way away from what I’d call low pressure. Below 2 Bar, even 1.5 of inlet pressure is more what I’d expect. That’s of course of the gun truly is HVLP. Being a budget brand they may have just put that stamp on there to try and sell them.
The high pressure won’t have helped with the halo either I’d say. The basecoat will have been highly atomised, so going on almost dry at the edges of the blend. This will cause the metallic particles to sit at all kinds of funky angles instead of settling down nicely in a uniform manner. That will cause a difference in how that area reflects the light (instead of bouncing back off the face of the flake it will be scattered) giving you a darker or patchy area.
The “roughness” in the metallic flakes may also have been showing through in your clear as it won’t lay as smoothly over that.
I wouldn’t describe it as proper technique but it worked fine on those small items, yes.
No worries Carl. Hope all goes well mare.
Carl, let me know the product number as well please. Might come in handy.
We use loads of Kent stuff here. 99% of our priming is done with Ultrafill :blush: We use Plaz Tex, their badge and logo tapes, plus some of their plastic repair and epoxy bonding products. They have some good stuff!