Andy Taylor
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Not quite finished I’m afraid :blush:
I’ve more or less finished my part, but the owner is a busy guy, just like me, so hasn’t quite got it all back together yet. Around another half a day should do it, but he can’t find that half a day! And now that I’ve polished up some of the chrome, he’s decided to get the wheels re-chromed to match.
Here’s how it looks atm:
[IMG]http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Work/Project%20Orange/P1010082Large.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Work/Project%20Orange/P1010084Large.jpg[/IMG]
[quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=19737]
As long as you vacuum it regularly. :blush:[/quote]
:lol1What colour did it start out? It’s gone that same old purpley grey that everything turns to after it’s been in a paintshop long enough :rofl
Very nice indeed Ryan.
I must admit I was sceptical when you mentioned it a while ago, but that carpet on the floor really does seem to help keep the jobs clean!
[quote=”JCClark” post=19627]And as the directions say, it leaves NO residues.[/quote]
That would be my only concern.
I’m all for trying new & unconventional techniques, and unlike some others here I’m not knocking you for using it, but looking at the list of ingredients I can’t help but think it must leave something behind, possibly compromising adhesion. But then if you’ve been using it for so long without any such issues, I guess it isn’t really a problem.
I doubt I’d have the nerve to try it myself on anything other than a test panel though.
Personally I find that a decent waterborne degreaser kills static dead, as long as you wipe it dry gently, rather than vigorously rubbing and building the static back up.
Nice one Nick.
Clean, straight, and shiny – just how we like ’em :rock
I use the cheapest, most unrefined (lacquer) thinner I can get my hands on, but flush the gun through with a quick squirt of whichever reducer I’m using before putting paint/clear in it. Probably not necessary, but old habits die hard…
3M Aqua tack rags for me.
Once a car is in the booth, masked up ready to go, I’ll blow it off with high pressure air, paying particular attention to any edges or panels gaps, wiping down with an old tack rag as I go. That removes the vast majority of the dust & lint, letting my clean tack rag concentrate on removing the last few bits during a second wipe down whilst blowing off with my gun.
I rarely tack between coats, as I find this can drag bits from the tack rags, hindering rather than helping.
Nice patch Nick.
I usually run a mile from that kind of thing. I hate rust jobs too!
I also suffer with this problem, particularly with the ultra high solid clears we use, which are single coat.
As mentioned, it’s down to the extra depth of clear on the freshly painted/blended panel. To limit the effect I’ll try and remove as much original clear from the blend panel as I dare, so that by the time I’ve added an extra fresh coat of clear, the difference in total clear thickness is as small as possible. In extreme cases I won’t even put a full coat of clear right to the end, but reduce it down with fade out blender and just put a thin one over the last few inches.
Hi Sach
I’m a bit far away from you in Sheffield, but if you’re ever up this way feel free to pop in and say Hi :welc
[quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=18987][quote=”Underpaid Painter” post=18982]So I take it that the RP is now approved for use in the U.S.? Did Sata supply a compliance certification with the gun?[/quote]
No it’s not. It isn’t available for sale yet in the states[/quote]
You really need to get your ass over here. We get all the best stuff :p :rofl
It’s good to hear you dispelling some of the myths, and maybe allaying some peoples fears about the drying times of water base.
I use DeBeer 900 series, and am very impressed by the drying times. There’s no way I could manage an average of less than 30 minutes per job without it.
[quote=”jimmo” post=18985]They did some tests on our booth and they said it moved air well, sure that does play a pretty significant factor.[/quote]
Absolutely agree buddy.
I can tell when our filters are getting ready for changing by the drying time of the base. When the filters are fresh it dries like crazy with very little need for the blowers, when they’re starting to get clogged up (thus reducing airflow) there’s a noticeable increase in drying time.
Very nice Ryan.
I’ve heard great things about the 4000 RP, and those results look amazing. Almost too slick for finishes I’m trying to match to be honest, but that’s easily sorted.
I have to admit I’m very tempted to change my allegiance for that gun. As you know I’m a die hard Iwata fan, and absolutely love the WS400 Clear, and have no complaints about it, but I can’t help wanting the latest and greatest! 😆
I could always convert the WS to a base gun….
As above, I’d never go as high as 400, unless it was as a first stage in removing a run or similar large defect.
But a good way to ensure you remove all the sanding scratches from a previous grit is to finish each one in a slightly different direction. That way, when you’ve finished (for example) blocking with 2000 in a North – South direction, any marks from the previous grit (where you went East – West) will stand out like a sore thumb.
It doesn’t have to be such a dramatic change in direction, that was just for ease of example, as even a 10 degree change will do the trick.
Our booth uses 100% fresh air on the spray cycle, but recirculates around 90% on bake, to reduce fuel costs. The 10% fresh ensures removal of fumes etc.
[url=http://www.burntwoodspraybooths.co.uk/spraybooths-cars.htm]A handy diagram[/url]