Andy Taylor

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  • January 30, 2011 at 1:05 am #27798

    [quote=”Jayson M” post=17709]Those are very impessive numbers,I’m having a busy week if I do 30 :p What kind of paint do you use over there?? Do you use upol products?[/quote]

    I use a couple of Upol products – mainly their Easy One filler for the bigger jobs. Sanding materials are a mixture of Mirka & 3M, and for the most part we use the cheapest masking products we can find! The exception to that is the newish 3M Smooth Transition Tape. It is an absolute Godsend with our kind of work, and I don’t know how we ever managed without it. It gets my vote for best product of 2010.

    Paint is DeBeer 900 series water borne base, with their 8-214 scratch resistant clearcoat.

    The base is an absolute dream to apply and pretty quick drying (especially since I run my booth at over 80°F). The clear is a high solids one, so most panels are done in a single visit. i.e. one dust coat, wait a few seconds, then pile on a wet one. Big flat panels like roofs and bonnets (hoods) get one thin coat, 2-3 minutes flash, then a full one. That gives them just that little bit more build to allow for a good flat & polish if they’re full of crap. The low solvent content means entrapment isn’t an issue 🙂

    January 29, 2011 at 8:51 pm #27793

    I understand they’ve released an LS400H with higher fluid output to address that issue. Might be worth a try 🙂

    And yes, I was running around like a headless chicken, as we say over here. As well as throwing on all of that paint, I had to organise the workload for my 3 guys; sorting out the most efficient order in which to do the jobs from the constantly changing stock in our back yard. Making sure that if one prep guy was tied up for a few hours on one of our bigger jobs, that I found plenty of smaller jobs for me and my other prep guy to get ready so I had a constant flow of cars waiting to paint. Then of course QC-ing the cars after the finishing guy had done with them.

    And somewhere in between all that lot I had to find time for the mundane stuff like making sure we had enough paint and materials to last, without upsetting the owner by overstocking; making sure all the paperwork was done and each job was logged properly (we get a bonus paid per car finished, so I daren’t miss any, lol), and most importantly – flirting with the office girls :whistle:

    I’m trying out my new guy in the booth next week, so I should be able to take it (relatively) easy :kofee

    January 29, 2011 at 7:46 pm #27789

    Not exactly Ryan, although I did pick the wrong gun up early one morning and put base in the WS400 clear. It came out great :lol1

    My mate at DeBeer / HOK technical has though, and in his personal opinion it’s the best base gun there is, but feels the new Sata 4000 holds the crown for best clear gun, followed closely by my WS400.

    Ding – if I had to lug a big Sata around all day my arm really would need a rest 😉 😆

    January 29, 2011 at 5:39 pm #27784

    [quote=”nick@dunsdale” post=17681]
    The sun guns really seem to pick up the glitter in black , i notice in particular on the opel black, code 20r you can hardly see the red mica in it ,

    Put the sun gun on and wow the red pops right up at you.[/quote]

    As an aside Nick, have you noticed there are two very distinct shades of 20R about?

    I paint at least 10 in this colour a week, and some are very much redder than others. Put two cars side by side under the same lighting, and you’d swear they were different colours (and I’m talking similar model years).

    January 28, 2011 at 12:55 am #27727

    There’s nothing out of the ordinary in it Tommy, just a couple of ‘regular’ pearls/micas.

    Certainly no expensive Xyrillics 😉

    January 23, 2011 at 5:31 pm #27556

    [quote=”painter123″ post=17436]If the clear is too cold could it possibly cause fisheyes when spraying the clear?[/quote]

    It won’t so much cause them, but since the clear is thicker it’s less likely to flow out over them, so effectively cold clear can see you ending up with more fish eyes.

    I have heated shelves in my paint room, but leave my clear & hardener/activator in the booth most of the time.

    January 23, 2011 at 5:27 pm #27555

    A bit late, but hello Russ.

    I’m just down the road from you in Sheffield.

    August 22, 2010 at 1:55 pm #24165

    Another question for you Jim.

    Have you ever tried this method with a water borne basecoat?

    One thing I’ve found with WB is that when you put “plenty” of clear on in one session, it can send dark colours slightly milky or cloudy. Not markedly so, and probably not something most customers would notice, but I definitely see a loss of clarity.

    Cheers 🙂

    August 22, 2010 at 4:33 am #24146

    The Debeer thinner (WB reducer) we use comes in a very similar 1 litre plastic bottle with squirty cap, so I’ve got stacks of them lying around, but thanks for the link anyway 🙂

    August 22, 2010 at 1:22 am #24137

    Great tips Ryan.

    I run my base gun through the solvent wash after it’s weekly strip down. Really helps to get the last little bits out.

    A first dust coat of base is something I’ve always done, and found it helps a lot. I hardly ever use a sealer.

    But that squirty bottle tip is one I’m going to steal. Great idea, and it’ll keep the fluid in the gun washer cleaner for longer too.

    August 20, 2010 at 10:11 pm #24087

    Nice job, came out really well.

    Guys, it’s a Seat Leon. Not sure exactly what spec as it could have been modified, but it looks very much like a Cupra R (the quick one!)

    August 20, 2010 at 10:02 pm #24085

    Hey Gareth,

    Nice to have another UK member on board :welc

    August 19, 2010 at 1:11 am #24014

    Very similar to Ryan’s method, but I’ll P180 the chips out, then finish with P320 to remove the fur. Yes you can go a little finer, but I find a decent 2K primer will cover it 🙂

    August 9, 2010 at 1:42 am #23679

    Well that’s turned out a lot better B)

    I like the way you’ve done the bonnet. The satin thing really isn’t my bag, and doing it all would look awful IMO, but by going off the bodyline and having the edges gloss to match the wing and A pillar works pretty well 🙂

    Cupra R?

    August 9, 2010 at 12:29 am #23676

    [b]ding wrote:[/b]
    [quote]could have rolled it on ans smoothed it with a bondo spreader :whistle:[/quote]
    I did consider getting a 2″ paintbrush out! :blink:

    Thankfully all was well when I got to it this morning. I knocked the tops off with some 180, then blocked it with 320, and all seemed fine. Just to be sure I gave it a light sealing coat with some ‘poxy before base (I’ve run out of 2K high-build primer, which is what caused the problem in the first place).

    A bit of extra fast activator in the clear and 15 minutes with the infra reds and she was ready for buffing, with no sinkage at all.

    The stuff I do at the weekend is very quick ‘n’ dirty, but it brings in a bit of extra beer money :cheers

Viewing 15 posts - 496 through 510 (of 711 total)