Andy Taylor
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[b]Stone wrote:[/b]
[quote]It’ll bridge quite bad if you spray too dry :whistle: might need to sand it right off :unsure:[/quote]Yes, it wasn’t one of my better ideas :blush:
I’ll probably end up sanding most of it off this morning and trying something else. It’ll certainly teach me to take all of my kit along to these kind of jobs in the future!
Of course 🙂
I normally get by with a 1.8, but as I say, I hadn’t brought it with me.
We use 3M at work (because we have to!). For my own stuff I use Megs 105 & 205, and find them far superior.
The initial cut of the 105 isn’t as high as 3M Fast cut plus, but because it is non-diminishing it just keeps on cutting for as long as you want it to, long after FC+ has broken down into a finishing polish.
Hi David.
I’m not exactly close to you as I’m up in Sheffield, but a damn sight nearer then most of the guys on here 😀
Plastic wherever possible here.
We tend to do as much masking as possible outside the booth, so some areas get paper, b t plastic just seems so much easier, cleaner, and quicker to me. Plus you can stretch it nice and tight so it doesn’t flap dust around, something you can’t do with paper.
[b]turbo t wrote:[/b]
[quote]playing it safe this time 2 coats of base and max meyer clear lol as i know i can lay that down :exci[/quote]
Can’t blame you mate.The DeBeer is obviously by far the better clear, but that doesn’t mean it’s the best one for the job. Familiarity with a product stands for a lot, so you’re often much better off going with one that you know well, rather than a potentially better one that you know nothing about 🙂
Thanks for all the advice fellas. Certainly plenty to chew over.
I do have a gallon of epoxy lying around that I can’t see me using on anything else, so may well start with that, if only to get rid of it 😀
Double priming was always a favourite of mine Ryan, way back when I was doing ‘real’ work! I haven’t even seen the car yet but I’m planning on one round of poly, then depending upon how that blocks down it’ll be another dose of poly, or straight onto regular 2k high build.
That’s just beautiful [img]http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/vbb/images/smilies/hearts.gif[/img]
Thanks for the advice. At least I talked the guy out of using etch! :wak
I very rarely bleed the air out too. Only when it’s really necessary like painting the underside of a bumper cover or sill (rocker panel?), when the gun will be tilted right on it’s side or even upside down.
Great stuff. I use a mask just like that 😉
Can’t remember the last time I painted a panel that wasn’t still attached to a car though!!
Primer/sealer – W400 LV2 with 1.3, 1.4 or 1.8 depending on application.
Or Devilbiss PRI 1.6
Basecoat – Iwata W400 WBX 1.3
Clearcoat – Iwata WS400 1.3 Clear
Mini gun – Iwata LPH80 1.2 E4[b]turbo t wrote:[/b]
[quote]the clear was 8-414 [/quote]
I did some field testing on that clear for DeBeer, and was extremely impressed by everything but the price :lol1I gave it all kinds of abuse under their watchful eye and it always performed brilliantly for me. We even did an extreme overload test – one light coat, then two full wet coats back to back with no flash. The car was then pushed straight into the pre-heated oven (80C) with no flash time, and it didn’t pop or champagne in the slightest. There was one area that had started to sag a little due to the excessive amount of material, but it didn’t turn into a full scale run.
Sorry to ask, but did you get the mix ratio right? It’s 3:1, with a bare minimum of thinner/reducer. I think it’s a 5% max, but I use 3%
Maybe you just let it flash for too long. These ultra high solid clears really need heat on them pretty quickly to drive out the solvents before the surface closes up. Most of my jobs get less than a minute, just long enough for me to put my gun down and open the dividing door to the oven. Too long and they ‘skin over’, so once heat is applied the solvents have to force their way through the closed surface – hence the pop, or they get trapped in the thicker areas around panel edges and cause small bubbles (champagning).
I had a car on fire over the weekend with a stud welder!
I’ve used one for years without a single problem, as they don’t heat the panel much at all. But when I looked up and saw the paint blistering at the top of the panel I knew there was trouble! :ohmy:
My right hand is now burnt and cut to ribbons after ripping off the interior trims and tearing out handfuls of burning foam.
A very very stupid mistake, and not one I’ll make again…
[b]turbo t wrote:[/b]
[quote]also we baked this clear coat we used [b]de beer 8-402[/b] i think was the no …. [b]put last coat of clear on[/b] and bang runs everywere so we gave it 20 mins and baked it for 30 min at 60deg we entered the booth to find solvent pop everwere wtf i felt like hanging myself
[/quote]
8-204?How many coats did you put on? One will do with that stuff, or a light then full one at the most. Any more than that and runs and pop are inevitable I’m afraid.
Hi from back home John. :cheers