Andy Taylor
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I’ve never seen a different liner for WB. Yes the finer strained lids are recommended, but the liners are all the same from what I’ve seen, and I get through a couple of boxes a week.
[b]ryanbrown999 wrote:[/b]
[quote]I do zero cutting and buffing but will nib and buff. I will nib dirt out or if I get a run or sag. I never have to sand for texture or peel issues. I am also doing collision work so a cut and buffed car isn’t what they want. I am not painting show cars or restorations. Everything I spray will look better than factory.[/quote]
Pretty much exactly this.The finish always comes out how I want it too, any flatter just wouldn’t match the rest of the car, but you can’t help the dust nibs!
And to answer the other side of your question – consistency is the key to production painting, so all my jobs look the same, whether it’s my 1st job of the week or my 50th.
[b]ryanbrown999 wrote:[/b]
[quote] That particular gun requires a lot of volume.[/quote]
I’ve got to second this. The SATA 3000 is the most air hungry gun I’ve ever used. Unless you have an extremely healthy air supply you’ll struggle.That could possibly be the reason your pressure is dropping, as your air system simply can’t keep up the required pressure at the high flow rates this gun needs.
Why bother fixing it? Close the door and you can’t see it :rofl
But seriously, to answer your question – I wouldn’t. That type of hinge is so easy to split (undo bolt, lift off), that there’s no reason not to remove it.
Good stuff Ryan B)
[quote][b]nick@dunsdale wrote:[/b]
Though i found on my booth when we cleaned the paint build from the extract fan and chimney this made a very noticeable difference to the drying of water basecoat.
To be honest the fan and chimney were not even that bad looking, but it certainly made a big difference.[/quote]
Not a nice job!Thankfully we’re on a full service contract, so a guy did ours a few months back. Crawling around the concrete tunnels under our floor is not a job I’d fancy. I definitely noticed a difference, but that could have partly been down to the full filter change he did at the same time.
It was funny to see him crack up the fans for the first time after cleaning though – it looked like a volcano had erupted on our roof showering the whole site with dried up paint flakes :lol1
As above, a coat of clear binder will help, but once you’ve got the hang of water you should only need that for really bad colours.
One of waters biggest advantages can also be one of it’s downfalls – better covering power than most solvents. I’m sure we’ve all done it, you get a pretty transparent colour and it almost blends itself out, as some of the original colour still grins through the new. With a base that’ll cover in one good coat you clearly won’t get that. I’ve taken to reducing the fluid output on my gun when I know there’s a tricky blend to do. Just winding the fluid knob in half a turn really helps me out.
And as Ryan says, don’t flick your wrist like you would with solvent. I’m sure we all have our own ways of doing it, and it’s hard to describe, but I sort of arc my arm from my shoulder, so that I’m pulling away from the panel as I reach the edges of the blend.
Stick with it. Once you’ve cracked water you’ll never want to go back 🙂
Nick – I know one of the guys going around demoing this, and he’s having a hard time keeping up with the interest. Now Dave knows he’ll never sell it to me in a million years, so has no reason to be biased, but he’s extremely impressed with the system himself.
I haven’t looked through that link (since I’ve heard it from the horses mouth), but he reckons it can be a life saver in some situations. As you say, late one afternoon when the customer is due to collect their car and it comes out of the oven a shade darker (possibly just due to extra clearcoat). What do you do?
With this it’s a very simple job to darken the edge of the adjacent panel, and apparently prep work is minimal due to the adhesion promoter, and it buffs back to an invisible blended edge.
Dave’s been in the business for years, many of them as a demo man, and it’s the first time I’ve seen him genuinely excited about a new product.
As I say, it’ll never be implemented here, but if I were ever to set up my own shop it would have a place in my cupboards 🙂
Tommy, spraying WB is quite a bit different to solvent, but not necessarily harder. As Ryan says, if you’ve got a booth with a decent airflow, then you’re laughing really.
Exact technique varies a little from product to product, but on the whole a light – half coat is applied first and allowed to flash, then you go on nice and wet with your full coat/coats, followed again by a lighter drop coat to even it all out.
I’d also recommend you look into DeBeer too. Very well priced, and the back up from them is superb. I’ve never tried Lesonal, but heard good things about it, and I used a little bit of Mipa some time ago and was reasonably impressed.
What I’d suggest is see which one of them is willing to provide a little training for you. Even if they only come up and spend a day with you you’ll learn valuable lessons 🙂
[b]ding wrote:[/b]
[quote]dont mask to prevent overspray from getting on the car…. mask to keep dirt from coming off the car ;)[/quote]^^ Quote of the day.
This is a job I did recently in a mates workshop. Not the ideal place for painting, but it was only an old car for his sister to run around in.
[IMG]http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Work/Corolla/P1000547Large.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Work/Corolla/P1000550Large.jpg[/IMG]
Nice tight masking wherever possible to prevent dust coming off the car, floor sheeted up with the same plastic to keep the dust down.
The whole car (including masking) was blown off with low pressure air and tacked off, then the panels to be painted were tacked off again with a fresh rag, and again in between every coat. There was hardly in dirt at all in it, which was a big surprise to me!
[IMG]http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Work/Corolla/P1000556Large.jpg[/IMG]
[b]bondomerchant wrote:[/b]
[quote]well just try an let the first light coat breathe a lil b4 ya hammer it also i back up a lil on the first one some… i just wanna let the met an the clear ta get a chance ta know one another then its hammer time :woohoo:[/quote]What we call a ‘grip and rip’ over here. Works great with high-production single coat clears. Put on a 30% coat, stand back, catch your breath and scratch your balls, then throw on the remaining 70%. Job done B)
[b]Higgy wrote:[/b]
[quote] With regard to my age, I can remember when paint fumes were good for ya !!![/quote]
Ha, there’s still no finer hangover cure 😉Welcome Higgy. Someone older than me for a change :lol1
Whereabouts are you based?
Very nice B) I do quite a few of those – 851 Chili Red by any chance?
I always think they look better without the bonnet stickers/stripes too. They’re just a throw back to the ‘proper’ works rally Coopers of yesteryear that had leather straps holding the bonnets down!
Hi Andy :welc
I’m not too far away if you need someone to hold your hand :lol1