Andy Taylor

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Viewing 15 posts - 46 through 60 (of 711 total)
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  • October 6, 2013 at 5:38 pm #44812

    [quote=”Mal” post=33472][quote=”Scoobycarl” post=33470]We sometimes use japan tape,dont know why its called that but hey ho.its quite thin and sticks like shit to a blanket,it is used to mask up the rubber seal around petrol filler caps where normal tape wont stick.[/quote]

    Where do u get that at Carl? I’ve yet to find a tape that sticks well enough on some of those rubber curves been using 3m green with some decent results[/quote]

    Don’t try and curve the tape, it’ll always try and curl up on the outside edge. Put the tape on flat and use a razor blade to cut it to the curve 😉

    October 5, 2013 at 3:50 pm #44806

    As you’ve guessed, getting it even is likely to be impossible.

    I’ve done it on small parts like door handles, trims, window frames etc that require a satin finish. Rather than messing around to match the gloss level with paint I’ve simply sprayed them matt then gradually polished them up to the right kind of sheen. I wouldn’t even think about trying to do the same with a body panel though.

    September 24, 2013 at 9:53 pm #44618

    I’ve actually managed to find some over here (eventually!)

    http://www.lkperformance.co.uk/car-car-preparation/meguiars/meguiars-unigrit-sanding-block-2000-grit/360709/579

    400, 1000, 1500, & 2000 grades are available.

    There’s a decent write up on how to use them [url=http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=264153]here[/url]

    September 23, 2013 at 10:08 am #44609

    Martin, A guy that worked for me a while had a pair of stones made by meguiars in 1000 and 2000 grit ( or something ).

    I’ve never been able to find them on sale in the UK though.

    September 22, 2013 at 5:54 pm #44603

    I use almost exactly the same method as Ben, usually with great success. I’ve used the putty method in the past too, also works well.

    Anyone tried the devilbiss shim mask? It looks like a gimmick to me but I’ve got one coming anyway to see how well it works.

    September 21, 2013 at 8:48 am #44580

    I don’t know about Air Gunsa. I know the AZ3 is available in a 1.0 but I don’t know how suitable it’d be as a mini gun.

    Back when I was doing SMART I used a couple of Deltalyo DL2000WB 1.0 guns. They did the job surprisingly well for the price of them (around £100 inc VAT) but if you’re in for the long haul rather than a short term saving you have to factor in reliability, parts availability etc. You can’t beat buying one of the big brands for stuff like that 🙂

    Oh, and one of my co workers used to use a Graco Finex mini/midi gun, [url=http://www.spraygunsdirect.co.uk/product.php?tid=76&products_id=6167]available here[/url] as one of their best sellers for less than a ton. That worked pretty well too and with extra set ups from 0.6 to 1.4 available (at only £33 each!) they’re pretty flexible.

    Might be worth a look.

    September 20, 2013 at 11:28 pm #44563

    I like my LPH80 but having used an SRi pro I’d probably go for one of those as it’s capable of a wider fan pattern if you want to use it for a slightly bigger job. I’ve done full bumpers and single panels with my Iwata but it does take a lot of passes!

    September 20, 2013 at 11:21 pm #44562

    I’m a few days late replying to this but I’d never thought about that aspect Ryan. Makes perfect sense.

    Mind you, I make a decent living out of repairing bumpers with star cracking from minor impacts, so maybe I should carry on advising against flex agents :lol1

    September 20, 2013 at 11:07 pm #44561

    Did the runs come in the first coat or the last?

    If the former then you were probably trying too hard. I always hold back a little on my first coat. Still flat, wet and shiny but I try not to get it on too heavy. I find I can put subsequent coats on much heavier and they’ll be fine, whereas if I did the same with the first one it’ll just end up dripping on the floor. Maybe it’s the first coat absorbing some of the solvents in later coats helping it to stay put. Who knows? :unsure:

    If they appeared in the last coat then I’d suggest you didn’t let the first flash enough. Some areas always take longer to flash than others, particularly if you don’t have a good turbulent airflow around the car. You can see this more easily with base. Some places around body lines or angle changes will take longer to flash than the middle of a flat panel for instance. Watch for these areas as you base and bear them in mind when you move on to clear.

    September 20, 2013 at 10:50 pm #44559

    [quote=”Jayson M” post=33220]Iwatas are a great spraying gun but are nowhere near as tough as a sata.[/quote]

    I agree absolutely with you on this, especially on the newer supernova guns.

    Whilst I love the way mine sprays, the control knob covers have all fallen off, the chrome is flaking off of the air cap, and there is some major pitting of the screw threads inside the gun. Yes I know it’s had a hell of a lot of use but even though it’s been well looked after it still looks like it’s 100 years old, not less than 4! By comparison the Sata NR2000 I have was well used as a demo gun before I bought it, and has shot plenty of paint while I’ve had it, but it still looks pretty much brand new and works flawlessly.

    I may end up treating myself to a 4000RP some time soon. Not because it’ll do the job any better than what I have (having demo’d one) but because it’ll look a whole lot better in my hand and will probably outlive me!

    September 20, 2013 at 7:17 pm #44555

    Welcome along Paul.

    I’m sure we all love to see pictures and videos so get posting :cheers

    September 20, 2013 at 7:10 pm #44554

    Ya can’t beat getting plenty on :blink:

    September 16, 2013 at 2:59 pm #44504

    That came out nice. Did you paint the wings / fenders at the same time?

    I’ve driven a few of those. Ideally you need two, one for each foot like roller skates :rofl

    September 16, 2013 at 2:55 pm #44503

    Way too high for that gun I reckon.

    As you say, the sheet says 2 BAR which is ~29 PSI. Start with that and bump up or down a few pounds to taste.

    September 14, 2013 at 11:58 am #44485

    I’ve never used a flex agent in a bumper cover, even when recommended.

    Be sensible and don’t try bending the piece in half after you’ve painted it and you’ll be fine.

Viewing 15 posts - 46 through 60 (of 711 total)