Andy Taylor
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The fluid output of the LPH is considerably slower than it’s W400 counterpart – an LPH400 1.4 puts out less than a W400 1.2!
This is supposed to be counteracted by the lower pressure of the LPH gun increasing the transfer efficiency (more on the panel, less wasted in the air), but by running them at higher pressures this ‘advantage’ will be reduced, or may even be lost completely.
So in this case, lower pressure may actually make the gun a little faster (in that it would lay down more material instead of wasting it as overspray), but if it isn’t producing the finish you want then it’s not a viable option.
It’s probably the reason why the 1.4 seems to be the most popular choice for an LPH clear gun, but I find a 1.3 W400 more than adequate (although I have a 1.4 for vans and trucks, where speed is more important than finish).
Wow, some of you guys run these guns at a high pressures don’t you!
25 PSI for a HVLP gun – that’s only a couple away from what my so-called high pressure compliant version needs! In fact I sometimes run it that low if I’ve got a really heavy OE peel to match.
As long as it does the job though, that’s the main thing 🙂
Welcome to the world of Iwata!
We mostly use the compliant versions over here in the UK (W400), but I’ve converted a fair few of my colleagues away from SATA & DeVilbiss after they’ve tried my guns.
Next stop – a pair of WS400’s hopefully. I’ve been trying really hard to get the HVLP version (LS400) to test out, but they simply aren’t going to be made available over in Europe 🙁
Congratulations MoCoke!
Let us know what you think when you get a chance to use it 🙂
Looking very sweet indeed! B)
[b]Andy T wrote:[/b]
[quote]As bondo says, a good hot weld is always the best for stuff like that if you can.[/quote]As I say – If you can.
For the kinds of plastic that don’t hot weld adequately, I use the Lord Fusor range. Used and approved by many OEM’s, and I haven’t found anything to beat them yet.
Groove out the crack then give it a quick squirt of adhesion promoter. Apply a dab of #142 and by the time you’ve gone and washed your hands the repair is good to go 😉
[b]Stone wrote:[/b]
[quote]after pulling and pushing it may be repairable … surprising some times how well those will pull out :pcorn:[/quote]I’d certainly be tempted to go this way first. Maybe it’s just the way I’ve been taught, but I’d always rather repair a quarter than replace, if at all possible.
Even if you decide to replace, you definitely want to pull everything back as near as you can before even considering removing the old qtr.
Agreeing with Ryan here Jim.
Film thickness is certainly thinner on WB. For that reason, when I converted years ago I had it drilled into me that surface prep was even more important, and that sanding grades ought to be slightly finer, as the lower build clearly has less ability to fill sanding scratches and imperfections.
And yes, on the four different WB schemes I’ve used, taping up is fine once the film is fully dry, given the usual common sense caveats of removing the tape with at least a modicum of care, and not baking the base with tape applied due to the risk of adhesive transfer (just as with solvent base).
As bondo says, a good hot weld is always the best for stuff like that if you can.
[b]airhead wrote:[/b]
[quote]now can i run this trap right out of the compressor to the hose and to the paint gun?[/quote]
You can, but you’re much better off having a decent length of metal pipe between the compressor and the trap. This will allow the air to cool before it gets to your trap, so more water will have condensed out of it, making the trap more effective.As said, it should fit fine. We only get the smaller plastic cups over here anyway 😉
Awesome work Easy, truly inspiring!
[b]Underpaid Painter wrote:[/b]
[quote] Sounds like you have ol spraytech beat at this speed thing! ;)[/quote]
Don’t let him here you say that :lol1I think he took a hit when he moved over to water base, but I’ve no doubt he’ll get it licked very quickly. That discussion actually got pulled from ASET as we were talking about pushing the products outside of manufacturers recommendations, but to be honest most of them don’t actually put a flash time down for WB, they just say ‘dry until fully uniformly matt’. The way I look at it, if it’s dry enough to tack or nib, then it’s dry enough for clear. And I’ve never had any delamination problems, so I can’t be doing too much wrong 😉
Very nice work Nexson.
We have a [url=http://www.sata.com/index.php?id=1069&L=11][b]SATA 444[/b] [/url]unit in the booth for final separation and filtration, but most of the hard work is done at the compressor, which has a refrigerated dryer built in.