Andy Taylor
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Can you only paint black?
:lol1 Just kidding of course. Stunning work, and welcome aboard :welc
Great video. A few too many variations of special effects for me, but the content is spot on.
I too used to run SRi’s. I then moved on to the SATA Minijet, before settling on the Iwata LPH80. With the 1.2 fluid nozzle and E4 cap, I’d never go back 😉
This is certainly one of the slower sites that I visit, but not so slow that it puts me off coming here. The content is worth waiting for anyway 😉
Yes, I’ve been thinking about what I wrote, and if it wasn’t for the guys on Detailing World I’d never have discovered Megs 105!
Nice collection Han.
I spend a lot of time on a couple of UK detailing forums, and many of the guys are falling over themselves to have all of the latest products, pads etc, but I find a well chosen selection that you’ve taken the time to familiarise yourself with is the best route.
[b]RatStang wrote:[/b]
[quote]I know a shop that basecoats all of the jambs disassembled. then assembles it. Bases the rest of the car, goes over the base in the jamb again then clears the whole thing assembled.
Sort of been debating on trying that method.[/quote]I did something similar when I did my own car (don’t bother with the day to day work – tape’s fine for customers! :lol1 )
Car was stripped to base the jambs, then reassembled to base the outside. The front end panels were then removed for clearing, but the doors and tailgate stayed on, as I could reach the insides of them pretty well.
[url=http://projects.205gtidrivers.com/paintguy-painting?page=1]A few pictures here.[/url]
Yep, I use it with the ‘standard’ 3M backing plate – [url=http://www.cartersconsumables.co.uk/3m09552-yellow-foam-14mm-female-thread-backuppad-velcro-p-557.html]([b]this one[/b])[/url]. I’ve tried 105 with the big 8″ double sided superbuff wool mops, but although it cuts like crazy it doesn’t finish down anywhere near as well.
I do like wool for compounding though. They glide over the surface much better than heavy cutting foams I reckon, and heat build up tends to be lower. They don’t get too clogged up, unless you’re using far too much product like one of my guys does! but even then I just spin them up on the buffer and run either the edge of a filler spreader over them, or even better a small scrubbing or nail brush. Every now and then they’ll get a rinse through in some warm water to get rid of any hardened bits of polish (as do all my foam pads) then put in the oven for a bit to dry out 🙂
Yes, I’ve got the 500 & 800’s 🙂 I’ll use them on a panel that’s going to be based, but not a blend panel. They’d probably be ok like you say, but with some of the Jap cars I get in (particularly Nissan) one good rub with one of those and you can be through the clear to the base, then you’re blending yet another panel :blink:
I don’t suppose it was Neil Bennett that did your demo was it? I know he did the north area, but not sure he came up quite as far as you, so it could have been Andy. Great guy Neil. He came to work for me for a bit after leaving Mirka, but he’s now gone back to a tech sales job with U-Pol.
I also go the DA route, but use the Mirka Q-Silver discs, then go around the edges with an Abralon foam backed pad dampened with some solvent based W&G remover.
I’ve also got the best results from 105 with wool too. The above job was done with the 3M Perfect-it wool pad (50390), but at 5″ they’re perhaps a little small for you guys 😛
http://www.cartersconsumables.co.uk/3m50390-wool-perfectit-buffing-150mm-p-1534.html
If you just want some small samples to try Nick, [url=http://www.i4detailing.co.uk/acatalog/Sample_Packs_1.html][b]here’s[/b][/url] a good place 🙂
[b]jim c wrote:[/b]
[quote]i have heard alot of good things about the 105. i might have to try it out and compare.[/quote]
105 & 205 are the best combination I’ve ever used. Maybe it’s because they’re a throw back to the old days of non diminishing abrasives, but they just suit my buffing style so well. They’ll just keep on cutting for as long as you want them to, and the cut level can easily be varied by pad choice, speed, or pressure, and even though it’s a heavy cut compound, the 105 finishes down really nicely.Here is a wrecked bonnet (hood) that I tried it out on. Full of swirls, scratches, you name it. One run over with 105 and it looked too good to throw away!
[URL=http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Paint%20Correction/Fiesta%20Bonnet/P1000199Large.jpg][IMG]http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Paint%20Correction/Fiesta%20Bonnet/th_P1000199Large.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Paint%20Correction/Fiesta%20Bonnet/P1000205Large-1.jpg][IMG]http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Paint%20Correction/Fiesta%20Bonnet/th_P1000205Large-1.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
And a quick run over with 205 really finished it off nicely (apart from the OE peel)
[URL=http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Paint%20Correction/Fiesta%20Bonnet/P1000209Large.jpg][IMG]http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Paint%20Correction/Fiesta%20Bonnet/th_P1000209Large.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Unfortunately as I say above, my company won’t buy it as they think it’s to expensive. Maybe they need a lesson that a few pennies spent on products can save them a hell of a lot more in labour time, which is any ‘shops most expensive commodity!
[b]nick@dunsdale wrote:[/b]
[quote]
I tried G4 when it came out ment to be for high solids and well cured paintwork…….. but it was the worst compound ever just seem to glide across the flatting marks, did not want to cut.[/quote]
Too right! I was completely unimpressed when I first used G4. I tried it a few times to make sure it wasn’t just me, but ended up tossing it in the bin!That’s the same 3M stuff that we’re on at the minute. Works great with the dedicated green foam pads, but they don’t seem to last very long. For extra cut on the really hard stuff I use it with the systems wool pad. We also have the yellow top (fine) and blue top (ultrafina) with matching pads, but they don’t get used very often as the 50417 seem to finish down very nicely if you work it long enough.
My shop switched to DeBeer about 8 months ago, and I’ve been pretty impressed with it. We’re using the 900 series (water borne), and apart from a few coverage issues with some colours, I actually prefer it to the PPG/ICI/NEXA Aquabase that I was using before, now that I’ve had a while to get used to it.
Back to your main question though – I’ve mostly moved away from Farecla onto the 3M system as I find it gives higher quality results, even though the speed might be slightly slower. The G3 advanced that you link to is a very good product, and gives a very fast cut, but can be a little messy sometimes. G-Total is a particular favourite of mine, as it’s a completely dry use product which really helps to eliminate splatter. G6 Rapid is another of their products that I’ve used, and is even more aggressive than the ones I mention above, but definitely needs finishing off with a finer compound/polish (like G10).
But neither of those hold a candle to the Meguiars 105 & 205 combo in my eyes, but it’s far too expensive to be used in our shop so I keep it only for personal use.
All in all I haven’t found as big a difference between the two systems as you obviously have, but then different product can be better suited to different styles and different paints (I use the DeBeer 8-214 scratch resistant clearcoat).
Nice work mate. I’ve done a lot of this kind of stuff myself so know how much work is involved.
Are you finishing them with textured paint or wrapping them in vinyl?