Andy Taylor
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- November 27, 2009 at 2:55 am #17274
My water base gun generally gets a clean once a week (I kid you not!) I use the 3M PPS system, so when I move from one car onto the next (every 30-40 minutes on average), I simply swap the cups and blow a little of the paint through to flush out the old colour. Sounds a bit rough and ready I know, but that’s all they do on most production lines, and I don’t get the colour transfer issues you might expect.
Clear gun gets a quick rinse out after every job, then at the end of the shift it gets stripped and cleaned with a variety of brushes before being put through the gun washer.
November 24, 2009 at 11:15 pm #17181Ooops! Custom colour and no spray out? :ohmy:
Maybe you’ll learn to love it 😉
November 24, 2009 at 11:11 pm #17180It’s all good to me. :clappy
It just goes to show how much of a perfectionist you must be if you’re willing to commit all this time to getting it looking ‘just so’ 😉
November 14, 2009 at 5:33 pm #16985As Ryan and I have said, that heat gun will work – just don’t get it close or as you say, it will be too hot. Hanging back a bit with it will give you a nice warm breeze across the panel, exactly what you need 😉
November 14, 2009 at 5:30 pm #16984[b]zarbat007 wrote:[/b]
[quote]So, it is necessary to use “waterborne blender” when blending panels with waterborne BC?[/quote]I’m guessing it depends on the type of base, as I’ve never found it a necessity with the brands I’ve used. It can help with some of those troublesome silvers if I lay down a bed of it first for the flakes to land on, but I generally get away without it.
As I say though, I’ve not used this particular brand of base, so it may be a very different story 🙂
November 14, 2009 at 5:16 am #16964I concur. A heat gun works great for little blow-ins and small panels. A hair dryer is a decent second choice though, especially if it’s one of the pro types where you can set it to low air speed and high temp.
As said, don’t get too close early on or you’ll just blow the paint around! Heat and air movement, that’s what you need 🙂
November 14, 2009 at 5:09 am #16963[b]ryanbrown999 wrote:[/b]
[quote]I had to break out the RP just for Bondo! 😉 My Iwata is probably mad at me now :blush:[/quote]
And so it should be – shame on you 😉I thought things were tight in my booth, but at least I don’t have to lean against the walls. Great vids though – thanks for sharing.
November 10, 2009 at 9:43 am #16902[b]RatStang wrote:[/b]
[quote]But a little note for Andy is. The last thing you want to do when using chemical strippers, is to leave any of the coatings that were exposed to the stripper on the car.
It might stay on, but there’s no telling what effects it chemically could have had to it.[/quote]
Ah yes, thanks for that.I was asking what his plans were rather than suggesting a course of action, but must admit I hadn’t really thought about the consequences. Cheers 🙂
November 10, 2009 at 12:08 am #16893Tough stuff indeed!
So what are your thoughts – scuff, fill the chips, then prime?
November 7, 2009 at 9:04 pm #16842For me it depends on a few factors, but in this case I’d definitely feather out, or at least try to. If it really is an adhesion problem then you’re better off sorting it now than doing your repair and having the same thing happen a short time down the road 🙂
November 7, 2009 at 9:00 pm #16841[b]Stone wrote:[/b]
[quote]avoid that sort of masking , but when unavoidable , I mask not right up to those areas (stay back an 1/8 inch) and then add a final 1/4 inch fine line , all in one piece (that I call my pull off) and leave one end easy to grab.Then as soon as I hang up my gun after clearing I go back in and pull off the pull offs , this will stop the bridging and lifting.
[/quote]
That’s how I do it if I absolutely have to paint right up to a masked edge (a trim that won’t come off etc.). I tend to wait 5 or 10 minutes first though to let the clear flash a little, just in case I disturb any dust when removing the fine line.I wouldn’t wait days to remove any kind of masking though. As soon as it can be touched lightly without marking (even if it isn’t fully cured) would be my advice. Just be careful not to lean on the soft paint whilst de-masking!
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