Andy Taylor
Forum Replies Created
- Posts
Nice work, but it doesn’t look too stable perched on those paint cans :huh:
Knowing my luck I’d drag the hose on one of them and send it all crashing down :lol1
I also tend to start at the bottom one side, then go over the top and down the other side, working back across the bonnet (hood) last. As said though, it does depend on the shape of the car so having a plan in your mind first helps 😉
Very impressive. I’d have just walked away from that one!
That’s not body repair – that’s sculpting!
Pablo Picasso eat your heart out :lol1
The last one I did (that had 2 gallons of white paint poured over it!), got blasted with a steam cleaner to remove as much as possible, then worked over with an aggressive clay bar.
[quote][b]nick@dunsdale wrote:[/b]
Andy i have seen that picture somewhere before ?? was your bodyshop featured in a bodyshop mag ???[/quote]
Not that I know of.I have posted that picture up before though, on a couple of places if I remember rightly 🙂
[b]ryanbrown999 wrote:[/b]
[quote]Nick, paintbooths in the States run on slight positive pressure. When we got our Quads installed the guy from Junair told me about the differences between booths in the UK and here. Funny how some things are so different. How much negitive pressure are you’ll supposed to run?[/quote]The general advice over here is to run at around 10 Pascals of neg pressure, which is only a fraction of a PSI. I’m running the booth pictured below, and if it goes into positive pressure for longer than a few minutes, an alarm will sound. If no action is taken it’ll eventually shut itself down, such is the concern here for the dangers of positive pressure.
The reasoning behind it is that if your booth is running positive, then any leaks could cause isocyanates to seep into the ‘shop. By running slightly negative, you get the slight disadvantage of dust maybe being drawn in, but no risk of toxins killing your panel beaters. Personally I’d rather keep my booth dust free, but I can’t paint anything if my prep guys are dead! :lol1
[IMG]http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Work/DSCF0037edit.jpg[/IMG]
A wipe down with a water based degreaser helps too I’ve found. They tend to be a water/alcohol mix, with anti static agents added.
I’ve been using the Abranet strips for a few years now, and they really are the dogs when used with dust extraction. There’s a range of DA disks available too, which when teamed up with their multi-hole backing pads make sanding anything virtually dust free. They’ve also recently launched a Heavy Duty version in 40,60 & 80 grits, with a thicker, less flexible backing material, and Abranet soft which has an in-built foam layer to help feathering.
The blocks are pretty good too, but do have a thin layer of foam on them so they aren’t truly hard. Not a problem in most cases, but there are times when you need something without any cushioning at all.
More info on the[url=http://www.mirka.com/automotive] [b]official Mirka site[/b][/url].
By the way, one of my team just happens to have been one of their top technical sales guys until joining me 6 months ago, and as I say I’ve been using them almost exclusively for a few years, so I’m sure I can help out with any questions 😉
P.S. If you view the site above, you will also see the Autonet range. This was brought out as a cheaper alternative, but trust me – they’re cheaper for a reason. The finer grades (P400, P500) just wear out too quickly to be economical, whearas the original Abranet discs and strips outlast conventional products by a good margin, making their higher price worthwhile.
I also understand that the patent on this product is due to run out very soon, so expect to see similar offerings from the likes of 3M soon (they’ve copied the soft Mirka Abralon pads already, as soon as it’s patent ran out).
I’ll see your sink bed, and raise you –
[img]http://www.paintguy.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/daftcat1.JPG[/img]
Litter tray bed :laugh:
[b]admin wrote:[/b]
[quote]It should be all fixed now 🙂 [/quote]Looks like it is. Thanks B)
Dumbstruck…. :ohmy:
Looks good B)
I don’t think the Quote button is working properly though. When I hit it, it will only quote the first post in a thread, not the one I actually want 🙂
Well I class myself as a fast painter, but found the 1.3 pretty fast!
I’d use it for overalls, but I’d probably switch to a 1.2 for most work.
I’d go with the light sand and re-clear routine too.
Much less hassle than sanding through, sealing, applying base coat, then clearing, but will give you the same outcome (or possibly even better, as clear always seems to lay slicker over sanded clear than basecoat).