Andy Taylor
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Clearly I’ve no experience of that particular car :lol1 , but on a metallic I generally base the jambs, insides and edges first, then hang all the panels loosely on the car to base the exterior, then strip back down again to get continuous coverage with the clear.
If speed is a consideration; jambs, insides and edges based and cleared first, then rebuild and shoot the exterior with soft foam tape in the panel gaps.
And if it’s just a quick ‘n’ dirty blow over job, tape up so that you can open and close the doors, hood and trunk whilst you’re painting and do the lot at once :blush:
We all do things a little differently, but once primed I’d paint the inside of the hood (assuming it needs it) and do a sprayout at the same time.
If I wasn’t 100% happy with the colour, then I’d follow the same rule as jimmo 😉
Quality work :huh:
What did he use? An axe? :silly:
Ha! Yes I’ve worked in places like that Han, Up to my ankles in filler dust and semi scrap panels stacked all over the place ‘just in case’ 😛
[b]Han wrote:[/b]
[quote]Now that’s CLEAN! Yeah, i don’t see any work going on. Where does all the serious work
happen? Where is the frame rack?[/quote]
We don’t do any heavy stuff here as we’re not a crash repair shop. I work for a large car supermarket with around 1000 cars on site, and when they are bought in they come through the paintshop to have any minor damage rectified before resale. It’s mainly two or three panels per car; minor dints, scrapes and stone chips, stuff like that. We do some bolt on panel replacement, but can’t do anything major as we haven’t even got a welder here! :blink:I’m getting on a bit now so I’m glad to have left that side of the business behind me. Give me the easy stuff any day, lol.
The pressure here comes not from the complexity of each job, but the throughput. I have three guys working under me, and we have to push out 15 or more cars a day to keep the bosses happy. That’s something like 30-40 panels to be prepped, painted and polished each and every day. I’ve also got a SMART repair guy turning out a similar number of jobs so I have a hell of a lot of organising to do, as well as staying over 100% efficient myself.
We do get a little bit of work done in between cleaning sessions 😀
If you look at the 5th picture, you can see the vacuuming attachment that I made nestled next to the oven door. Hook that up to the dust extraction and you’re cooking 😆
We’ve also got something like this for washing the floor with every week:
[IMG]http://www.hss.com/imagshop/imaggrup/large/58621.jpg[/IMG]
It gets a bit OTT at times (like washing and polishing all the ducting behind the booth!), but there’s nothing finer than walking into a sparkling clean shop on a Monday morning. And the less dust you have kicking around, the cleaner the jobs 😉
More pics as requested 🙂
[IMG]http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Work/DSCF0031edit.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Work/DSCF0032edit.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Work/DSCF0033edit.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Work/DSCF0035edit.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Work/DSCF0036edit.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Work/DSCF0037edit.jpg[/IMG]
And after our weekly Saturday morning clean up:
[IMG]http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Work/P1000104.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Work/P1000105.jpg[/IMG]
It was a brand new building when I walked in almost 2 years ago, and the owner likes to keep it looking that way 🙂
Now that’s some good aiming!
Very much so. For filler sanding we’re using Mirka Autonet discs which leave virtually zero dust behind. Combined with their blocks and Abranet sheets, it means our shop looks like this all of the time:
[IMG]http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Random/DSCF0034edit.jpg?t=1243977909[/IMG]
How do.
Fairly new around here myself Kevin so it’s nice to not be the new boy at last 😀
We’ve got a fully plumbed in extraction system with 12 outlets (or should that be inlets? :blink: )
We’re exclusively Mirka for our air sanders (although I have a couple of electric ones as back up) Three 6″ palm sanders (ROS650CV) connected to vac hoses and a fourth one that’s free to roam around. A small orbit 6″ finishing sander (ROS625CV), and three baby 3″ sanders (ROS325CV)
I’ve been ‘wet’ for about 4 years now. I’ve used a bit of Max Meyer here and there, ~ 2 years on Lechler Hydrofan, ~ 18 months on PPG/NEXA Aquabase, and we recently switched to DeBeer 900 series.
Lechler & DeBeer are pretty good for budget lines, but Aquabase was excellent. Great coverage on just about any colour (double headed wet coat + light control coat), and very good colour matching.
Yes, we have to buff most of our jobs. It’s usually only small dirt specs or the occasional run, but luckily I have one of my team dedicated to finishing work, so I don’t have to do it myself 😉
[b]Stone wrote:[/b]
[quote]so then as long as ones not in a hurry :whistle: :pcorn:[/quote]
To be honest, in a booth with decent airflow, and using air dryers (blowers) to provide good air movement across the paints surface, waterborne can dry just as fast as solvent base, if not quicker 🙂As said though, the trouble comes when you haven’t got good air movement. You end up with a saturated layer of air above the paints surface, so no further evaporation can occur, and it takes ages to dry fully. Turning the booth temp up a bit and just fanning with air from your gun works fine for small areas, but realistically you need dryers if you’re going to be using it long term. Having them set to blow across the surface rather than straight at it works best in my experience 🙂
(just to be clear, I haven’t actually used 90 line, but I’m basing my comments on the 4 different waterborne bases I have used, which all needed the same kind of environment to dry 🙂 )
[b]jimmo wrote:[/b]
[quote]One other method that can help too, I’ve yet to try it on spot repair but in theory it sounds good. Spraying from the outside in. Do your blend first, second coat inside, third coat inside the second. It’s supposed to prevent you from painting over a previous coats overspray and your surface is always perfectly smooth.[/quote]
That’s how I do it, and it certainly works for me. I still make sure I tack well between coats though to remove any of the ‘stood up’ flakes around the edges.