Andy Taylor
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[quote=”martinMK” post=33156]
What about a tack rag and a super fine hi quality micro fiber on top just to be sure to get the lint free finish..[/quote]
I missed that bit.
If I’ve done a fair bit of dry sanding (and let’s face it, dust extraction never catches it all) I do wipe down with a microfibre to remove the majority of the dust. Dirt cheap and washable / reusable. I see many people just blowing this kind of sanding dust off with an airline but it isn’t exactly good for your health! :blink:
[quote=”martinMK” post=33156]http://www.emmamerica.com/tack-rags/
10 pack of standard is 5 euros.. 1 rag 3M is 5 euro.. see the difference..
[/quote]I agree about the cost of them, but if a top line tack rag saves us from having to flat and polish the dust out of just one bonnet/hood a day I’ve more than made that money back 🙂
I use the 3M aqua ones at work. They don’t leave any lint or residue behind but aren’t exactly the most “tacky”.
Has anyone tried the 3M ones that look like a big white scuff pad?
As above, repainted at the factory or dealership. Or both!
I find it a lot on Ford bumper covers. You can sand them down and they’re a completely different colour underneath. I guess they probably order them in batches of hundreds in each colour, but if one colour proves more popular than another they’ll repaint a batch.
[quote=”martinMK” post=33095]
So it is a waste of money to send hot air through water separator close to the compressor.. [/quote]
I hate to say it, but most of us probably knew that already 🙂
Without going too technical and talking about dew points and the like, warm or hot air can hold much more moisture/humidity without it condensing out. So you could have hot air that seems perfectly dry, but cool it down and that moisture comes out.
So get the air as cool as possible before your water traps 🙂
Copper would be better. In fact any hard lines would be better than a hose as you won’t lose so much pressure.
You can get the fittings from Toolstation if you have one nearby. They look just like plumbing push fit connectors but are designed for compressed air use. Regular copper pipe and you’re away. I used 15mm as it flows up to 40CFM which is more than enough for a single gun.
Carl, 15 feet from the compressor is no good at all, but one cheap trick you may want to try is something I’ve done myself and it worked well. I’m also pretty sure Nelson (Bobwires) had something similar and it worked well for him too.
Hunt around for a dead compressor, you only need the tank. Place it right outside the booth where your airline comes in and plumb it in series. The air will come from your compressor and into the new tank, then out of the other end of the tank to your airline in the booth, through whatever filter / trap you have.
Firstly you’ll get a bit of extra storage capacity from this new tank.
Second you’ll get the cooling effect Rich mentions as the air comes out of the line and expands into this tank.
Thirdly it’ll act as a big heatsink cooling the air a bit more.
All of this should help to condense out as much moisture as possible, and the tank is like a massive water trap too. Probably not as good as a dedicated dryer but for how cheap it is it’ll pay for itself the first time it prevents a rework.
You might also want to consider the Devilbiss Whirlwind traps that fit onto your gun/regulator. They are a bit cumbersome and reduce airflow a little but they take out every last drop of moisture. I’ve used them and had absolutely no water coming through the gun but it’s been dripping from the quick release connector, showing how much water was coming through the lines!
It looks great. Glad he’s happy with it :rock
Hi Adam, welcome aboard :welc
[quote=”ryan999″ post=33012]
Ya but your a lefty Andy so that knocks your pay down, and you can only do a hundred cars a week :p[/quote]Ah yes, I keep forgetting how my disability holds me back 😆
I do think painters are undervalued over here though. I went for an interview a couple of months back at a BMW dealer. They have been going for as long as I can remember and have a really good reputation. They’re also starting to build new premises which will be the largest BMW (& Mini) dealership in Europe when finished so they aren’t exactly a cowboy outfit. However, they were offering a salary of just £17.5K! That’s as a painter in a prestige main dealer shop. There was a bonus system in place too but that would only amount to £2K at the most per year.
I found it hard not to laugh when he told me but politely made it clear that I was no longer interested in the position
[quote=”Mal” post=33003]
80k! Where do I sign up lol :dnc[/quote]
I know, I’m surprised they aren’t queuing around the corner for that kind of money! That’s double what I earn! :blink:
[quote=”NFT5″ post=32950]
Bonnet, boot, sill, [b]guard[/b] & bulkhead. Bulkhead? WTF is a bulkhead? 😆 😆 😆
[/quote]a.k.a. Firewall :whistle:
[quote=”richie00boy” post=32944]Thanks for all the replies and hi paintguy.
It is Pro-spray basecoat and having found the datasheet for it I looked up the recommended thinners and then looked up a datasheet for a current Pro-spray clear and found the same thinners listed in both. Then as a final check I searched a few shops selling the thinners and they are advertised as 2k thinners.
One thing now though is that I saw in the datasheet that the basecoat can be activated for greater performance, now I’m wondering if I should do that. This is my first time spraying 2k. Would there be any downsides to adding hardener?[/quote]
I use Pro Spray medium thinner / reducer for some of my “outside of work” stuff. It’s worked fine in whichever base I’ve tried it, and perfectly well in the DeBeer high solids or PPG medium solids clears that I’ve tried it in too, so I think you’ll be absolutely fine if you’re sticking within the Pro Spray range of products.
I’ve hardly ever activated my base coat. I know it is said to increase durability but I’ve never had a problem without so I leave it out. One less thing to go wrong!
[quote=”Ben” post=32917]
Why do people from Great Britian have to muddy up the English language? :lol[/quote]
Don’t even get me started on where you dreamt up some of the names for body panels :blink:
What’s wrong with bonnet, boot, sill, wing & bulkhead? 😆
[quote=”Ben” post=32914]First we should maybe change some terminology. “Thinner” usually refers to lacquer thinner. “Reducer” is the appropriate term when referring to modern paints (enamels/urethanes).
[/quote]It’s that language thing again 🙂
Richie is from the UK like me and we still use the term “thinners” almost universally over here. I try to remember to use the term “reducer” when on here though to avoid confusion. Even more confusing is that what you call lacquer, we call cellulose (in either clear or single stage variants)and we still almost always use the terms “lacquer” when we really mean clear coat 😆
Apart from that I agree with everything you said.
Rich – the long and the short is that your supplier could well be right. Some paint companies do use a range of universal thinners / reducers that can be used in everything from primers through to base and top coats. It isn’t always the case though, but if your supplier knows his products and says it will work then I’d be inclined to take his advice 🙂
£150 here. Second hand but unused from Ebay :rock
They seem to be fetching a lot more these days though!