Andy Taylor
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[quote=”Scoobycarl” post=32735]Thank bud,looks good- is that off the gun ? Ill have to crack the supernova out again as i started getting pretty good results with my sata 3000 digital so ive stuck with that a bit now,is 20 to 23 psi for clear with the supernova ? Isnt that a bit low ? Im not a trained painter so am willing to learn as much as possible.
Do you full time painters go by a tds for the paint you use and stick to that or get tips from the supplier of the gun and adjust it to your style ? I ask because i find it difficult to find out what pressure to spray and distance to panel when using a new gun.[/quote]Carl, I think maybe Reckless is talking about the LS400 supernova, a model we don’t get in the UK, which does indeed recommend 19 PSI inlet pressure. Our WS400 recommends 2.0 BAR, ~29 PSI. I tend to run very slightly below that but for starters stick to the recommended pressure.
Also stick to the TDS for the material you are using. Try and reduce the number of variables as much as possible by only adjust one thing at a time. If you’re changing pressure, viscosity, distance etc all at the same time you’ll not know which of them is helping or which hindering, so keep as many things stock as you can and perhaps try different distances first. Once you find one that works well stick to that and maybe try tweaking gun speed a little to see if things bet better or worse. Then maybe overlaps, then back to distance etc etc.
Only change one thing at a time or you’ll get lost. It may take a while to find exactly what you’re looking for, but remember you’re just fine tuning to find that last few % to suit your material, technique and environment. 🙂
Not sure if we get the same models as you but if you mean the WS400 with one of the HD fluid nozzle then yes, I’ve used one extensively.
My own gun has the original 1.3 Clear nozzle but I used a buddies 1.3 HD EVO model for about 6 months. A welcome improvement in output over my regular 1.3 I reckon.
I’ve recently gone back to my old job and the company has bought themselves the same gun (WS400 EVO 1.3HD) after seeing the results I got with one in the past, so I’m using that rather than my own.
I may eventually upgrade my own gun to the HD nozzle but I’ve got a hankering for a 4000RP. I demo’d one a while back but the 1.2 it had fitted wasn’t fast enough for me. To be fair I’ve no need to change but I just like shiny new stuff :exci And the fact that my Iwata is falling apart! They really aren’t as sturdy as the old W400 guns. I have a couple of those that still look great after many years of (ab)use, but the supernova is a wreck. The control knobs all fall off (sorted with the EVO model by screwing them in place), and all of the chrome is flaking off the air cap! :blink: A bit like the cars that Pininfarina also designed – sweet when they work but not built to last forever…
The other painters at work don’t seem to be able to get the same results out of the supernova as me. I haven’t actually seen them painting (only the aftermath) but I’ve heard one of them likes to spray from pretty far away, which doesn’t really get the job done with one of these.
[quote=”reckless” post=32713]
First ever pull on my Supernova clear
[IMG]http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Work/WS400-01.jpg[/IMG]
[/quote]
Still the first image to come up on Google images when you search for “Iwata Supernova”
Hey, I’m famous :rofl
Looks like their version of [url=http://www.symach.com/site/en/home.asp]the Symach system.[/url].
A mate of mine does the demo and install work for Symach here in the UK. Basically it’s an extremely fast drying system.
Are you using the same cloth to wipe the surface that you used for removing the compound?
If so it’s a common problem and it’s the compound residue left on the cloth that’s marking the surface rather than the cloth itself. Different cloths for each grade of polish will cure that.
[quote=”Scoobycarl” post=32584]Cool andy,i may try the ws400 for the basecoat then but do you think i would need to dial it down a bit as its a hd ? Also if i used it to base what would a good starting point be 1.5 bar ?[/quote]
Not sure mate, it’ll depend on the base. Start out with what the manufacturer recommends (if you know).
For the DeBeer water I’m on it’s 2 bar for the main coats then a light drop coat at 1 bar, so you might have to play and see.
[quote=”Scoobycarl” post=32581] Whiitey,yes mate its the newer supernova 1.3 hd evo.i think it stands for high delivery.is it any good for solvent base or do i need the specific BASE one ?[/quote]
The only difference is the stamp on the side, the business end of the gun is exactly the same 🙂
I have read somewhere that there’s a new OBS (optimum base setup) fluid nozzle around, but again I hear that’s been designed with dupont water base in mind.
My own gun is the original 1.3, but the works gun is a 1.3HD and it is a good step up in output.
[quote=”Scoobycarl” post=32578].ill try the ws 400 a bit closer and faster and let you know mate,it worked with the sata. :stoned[/quote]
It’s an Iwata man, close and fast is what they’re made for 😛
As one expert on these guns once said “you know you’re too close when the air cap hits the panel!”
For clear I find anything over 6″ away and you can forget it, unless you’re purposefully trying to match the heavy peel on some Fords or Mercs. 4″ is sweet for me.
Can’t really help on the wet stuff but I’ve used the solvent base quite a lot and that’s pretty good. Probably above what you’d expect at the price point.
[quote=”Scoobycarl” post=32553]Didnt know you started at our place ? Lol
I used to use company guns for about 5 mins then thought gotta get my own,i now have more guns than the company ! Do you just mask and paint or do you prep the primer and stuff too ?[/quote]At the minute there’s only two of us on nights so we’re just mucking in doing whatever needs doing. Normally though the painter just paints.
I kind of got the place going from the ground up 5 years ago and we found this to be the best way for production: 2-3 guys do all the prep work and priming, then mask the cars off as much as possible before lining them up in a queue in front of the booth. The painter just has to pull the car in, throw a plastic sheet over it, panel wipe, tack off & throw on the paint. It’s then slid across on rails to the adjacent oven to bake. When it’s done another guy pulls it out, de-masks, polishes & fits up where required.
It wouldn’t work so well in a crash repair shop but since most of our jobs take around 2 hrs prep at the most it keeps things going in a constant cycle.
[quote=”Xchaser” post=32557]Hey Andy what gun and setup did you use on your tri-stage reds? BTW Great to see your back painting in a real oven again![/quote]
Thanks mate. It’s good to be back!
I’m using a Sata NR2000 HVLP 1.3. It lays the DeBeer 900+ (water) base down really well and, more importantly, blends just kinda happen without any effort at all. I’ve always found it to be an easy base to blend out, just as I found with autowave, but since moving from my previous base gun (Iwata W400WBX) it’s got even easier.
Well my first shift back went well. I’m currently trying to bring myself around ready for the next one that starts in a couple of hours. My body clock is shot at the minute 😆
So after not stepping foot in a booth for 9 months they decided to take it easy on me – my first three jobs were tri-stage reds. Then an awful orange/red pearl colour (Ford Mars Red) and a blend down a side in a very fine metallic. Nothing like breaking me in gently :blink:
They’d had to buy some guns since I left (obviously I took mine away when they sacked me!) For base they’re using a battered 3000RP that looks like they’ve been taking the fluid nozzle off with a hammer and chisel. Not the best pattern in the world! Plus the digital gauge doesn’t work so they set the pressure “by ear” :rofl
Needless to say I used my own gun for base….
They have invested in a Supernove EVO 1.3HD for clear though which I was straight at home with. Only managed one tiny run out of 20 panels so I’m happy with that after so long out of the game.
I think the booth needs a good clean out though!! I painted a front end on a Mitsubishi in tri stage pearl red and it looked as though someone had been sweeping up while I was clearing :blush: Plus chunks of dried paint that’d flaked off the plastic sheeting that was flapping around on the walls. If I get a spare hour tonight I’ll give it a quick tidy out as the job’s hard enough without dealing with all that.
As you know from my other topic I’ve been out of the game for a few months but not long before that I switched to an NR2000 HVLP for base (DeBeer 900+) and was really impressed with the results.
[quote=”Scoobycarl” post=32518] Do you full time sprayers spray 2 wet coats or 1.5 ? Or does it depend on job and type of clear used ?[/quote]
Depends on the job and product really. And of course the painter.
For a quick bumper cover job with a HS or UHS clear a light dust (grip) coat followed immediately with a full wet one should do. For more normal jobs I prefer two coats. First one thinner and faster but put enough on to make sure it’s a closed coat, then I go wetter on the second.
I was always pretty sound with my immediate gaffer (the one that has fought his superiors to have me back) but I was carrying a lot of stress from family stuff at the time which boiled over at work and I overstepped the mark. I think he would have let it go with a serious slap on the wrists but the guys above gave him no choice.
I remember once going on holiday and he sent me a text at the airport: “missing you already…” 😆
Being busy is what I’m looking forward to Carl. Where I’ve been working there simply aren’t enough jobs to keep me going and earning enough. It’s one thing saying I need to paint 5 jobs a day (for example) to get my bonus target, but if they’ve only got 3 or 4 cars that need painting what’s a guy to do? :headsmack:
Thanks again for the good wishes.
I still think I’m a little crazy going back after what they did to me last time. I know I was in no way blameless, but I think they were very harsh on me. It all seems to have been forgotten though but I’ll definitely watch my temper very closely in the future!