Andy Taylor
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Thanks mate.
I’ll be working for a company called The Car People, what many would class as a car supermarket. It was always busy when I was there with our record sales being over 170 cars per week. I think they’re hovering around the 100 per week mark at the minute, but still plenty.
Their quality standards are very high so all cars are checked over on arrival and any minor damage rectified in the paintshop before they go on sale. There’s no crash repair work going on just lots of things like scuffs & scrapes, scratches and dents on panels, stone chipped front ends, that kind of thing.
As to what role I’ll be playing depends on who’s working the shift with me. Some of the guys can paint but most can’t, so I’ll have to wait and see.
As above, I’ve seen some colours down as 3 stage on one scheme and 2 stage on another.
[quote=”Scoobycarl” post=32349]
Ps i think it was lekler water base,any one have a lekler mixing scheme and whats your thoughts on it ?[/quote]
I’ve used a Lechler scheme in the past and was pretty impressed with it. I personally prefer DeBeer at that kind of price point but there’s nothing wrong with Lechler 🙂
[quote=”Dag” post=31601]Check this video out, you can see the speed he is spraying with a WS400 1.3hd[/quote]
WTF? I think he needs to clean his gun. It appears that the fluid tip is blocked up, or he’s screwed the control knob right in!!! :blink: If mine were that slow I’d have thrown it away long ago 😆To give you an idea, in a direct comparison of the WS400 and 4000 RP, using the same product in the same conditions on similar jobs, the original 1.3 Clear tip on the Iwata was about the same speed as a 1.2RP. The Iwata 1.3HD was faster than both. As artspray says you can narrow the fan a bit if you want to speed it up a bit more as it’s very wide at full. I also spray [b]much[/b] closer than the guy in that video. About the same as Diambert at most.
lild & Jason have offered some great advice. Try and worry less about how the old guy does it and concentrate on doing your own thing.
There are many ways to skin a cat and I bet if any of us on here went to work in another’s shop there’d be differences in technique but that doesn’t always mean one is right and the other is wrong. Keep going, concentrate on doing the job correctly (or as correctly as the situation allows) and the speed will come. :rock
Oh, and as for the DA question I use mine wherever possible.
[quote=”NFT5″ post=31581]LS400 is HVLP and WS400 is compliant. [/quote]
That’s it in a nutshell.
Here in the UK we only get the WS400 (unless it’s changed recently). I love mine, but as said above some people aren’t so keen (although I’ve never actually met anyone that’s used one and dislikes it 😉 )
I’ve used it, and the mipa vicrom which is very similar.
As Ryan says, it needs to go over a smooth unsanded surface. Black basecoat is normally used but you can vary the effect by using another colour,for instance white.
I’ve never found much of a difference between the two as long as they are used correctly. Keep either of them neat and tidy and you should find no difference. The other things mentioned above will be much more important 🙂
Loose plastic that flaps around when you spray near it will just kick up any dust that’s around, and dust can lurk in badly creased / folded paper, ready to jump out when you least expect it. I don’t know if anyone else does this, but just before painting I’ll blow & tack the area to be painted and the surrounding masking as far as I can reach with a demoted, half used tack rag, before going over the panels again with a fresher one.
I never turned mine down like that and it seemed to work ok 🙂
I did order a replacement gauge but I didn’t check the size – it was massive 😆 Pictures are deceiving on ebay!
Must try and find where I’ve left it and put it back into service somehow.
I agree with artspray, the best regulator I’ve used was an RTi MR-1 diaphragm one. It took me ages to find one in the UK though and then someone dropped it and broke the gauge :headsmack:
As you know Jack I work outside, so use this kind of additive regularly. Being judicious with it’s use is the best way. A little splash will help to speed things up no end with no real ill effects. Add too much and you’ll get plenty of die back!
The best product of this type I’ve used is DeBeer 30-69 taping additive. 3%-5% in one of their HS clears would bring bake times down to 10 minutes, air dry in an hour if you don’t need to buff it heavily.
[quote=”ryan999″ post=31187]If the color is just too white or clean an easy way to tint is to make a slurry mix. Take all of the toners in the formula except the white and make a mixture with them. The mixture should be balanced as in the formula, if it has 1g of black and 2g of yellow in the formula, your slurry mix will have the same. Add the slurry mix to the formula as needed till your color is closer.[/quote]
That’s pretty much the way I do it too. One thing I’d add – if working with small quantities I’ll let the “slurry” down with clear base to reduce its strength. A couple of extra drops of full strength toners could send you too far in say 100ml of white.
Not fully on topic, but just as I left my last job Debeer were introducing an additive for their water base so it could be used un-cleared on under hood areas and the like.
I’m from the UK Jim.
Like I say I’m not really sure what I’ve got as we’ve had minimal information. Maybe its the same as what you guys call cromax pro :unsure:
That would be nice!
I’m still using up my autowave stock where I can but I tried the cromax on a black Honda today. No blending issues of course with it being black, and I was impressed by the covering power and how well it held up to having 2½ coats thrown on in one go. I was expecting it to split, sag or separate somehow in the cold but it didn’t.
A bit of practice and I’m sure I’ll get used to it. Some training might have been nice though! Or even just a rough idea of how to apply it, rather than relying on what I can find out on the internet or from a guy I know that used it a few times in a booth :deadhorse