Andy Taylor
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I think so jim. All of the products have been decanted into plastic bottle with nothing but a number on. The two binders are labelled 1640WB and 1650WB, the toners/ pigments are numbered in the 1400’s and 1500’s (eg 1401, 1402 etc) if that means anything.
Basically a guy came and loaded some software on my laptop, then a few hours later a delivery girl came with a couple of boxes of paint. That’s as much as I know about it so far, the rest I’m trying to pick up from Youtube!! 😆 Talk about throwing you in at the deep end!
Jimmo, I think I’m on an older version of cromax, rather than the pro you’re using. Looking through some tech sheets online last night it seems there is a basecoat blender available (1601wb) but they haven’t given us that!
Shadow Blue by any chance? Bad coverage with every brand of paint I’ve used! :lol1
As above – scuff it and you’re good to go
Assuming the title is a typo and you mean RBD, then I’ve never sprayed it either. I’ve tried to pull it up on the DeBeer ICRIS system and it doesn’t list a formula, which is very unusual, so that would lead me to believe that there’s something special in it.
Not really a very helpful reply, but I tried! :lol1
Nice horse 😆
[quote=”rikka23″ post=30609]Hey guys do any of you use a Sata hvlp for metallic base coat, [/quote]
Yep, an old 2000, and it works well for me.
I tried it with clear once and will never make that mistake again 😆
[quote=”JackMarshall” post=30603]
How would you compare the Lechler TI to DeBeer?[/quote]I like them both really. The Lechler primer is really thick stuff and can be put on very heavy if you need to. It also comes with a polar hardener so air dries pretty quickly.The DeBeer primer I’ve used most (8-145) is a lighter, off-white colour and is maybe a little bit easier to sand, but there isn’t a great deal in it. It can also be had in a bright white and black version, so you can mix up whatever shade of primer you want (formulas are on the ICRIS weighing system I believe)
Thanks guys.
I never trust bright reds to cover well so a bit of colour in the sealer is added insurance. I used Lechler green ti primer which can be reduced down to use as a sealer and can be tinted up to 10%. Colour was Pro Spray.
Hello and welcome :welc
Keep us informed please the pair of you 🙂
It’s all the rage at the minute Jason, hence me wanting to give it a go. Youtube is full of it.
Spray it on, then peel it off like a wrap next week / month / year when you fancy a different colour.
DeBeer’s water borne degreaser, 9-851 was pretty good at removing static. I couldn’t say what was in it but it smelled like a water / alcohol mix. Like glass cleaner 😆
If you’re talking about painting with it, then I have a full car to do at some point in the future. It’s been hard trying to get any decent technical info on gun set up though as most use those airless sprayers.
Yes, it is a bit strange. The only reason I’m not letting on in public is because that is the way Hub does it, so I’ll respect that.
And I wouldn’t want to go near a gun with a scuff pad anyway. For really stubborn stuff a microfibre cloth soaked in thinners is the harshest thing I’ve ever needed. I’ve never heard of anyone polishing a guns internals, but in theory it makes sense.
[quote=”ding” post=30260]i was never privialeged enough to get a PM for the secret, but from what I have heard, If you properly clean your spray gun after each use, you wont need the super secret chopstick trick ;)[/quote]
I’ve actually found I’m using it quite a bit nowadays, since I don’t have a decent way of cleaning my guns on the van. Of course, since I’m using small guns mostly a chopstick is way too big so I use the end of a wooden touch up brush instead.