Andy Taylor
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That airgunza really is cheap at the minute!
I was looking to get a 2.5 tip for my W400 for poly primer, but it would be cheaper to buy a new gun instead :wak
Does hanging the car on it’s side keep the dust down?
😛 :rofl
Having painted more than my fair share of Fiat’s I’d agree with Ben’s first post – they do seem to be inconsistent with their colours. I always had trouble with NEXA and had to tint most colours.
DeBeer used to have 5 variant booklets for Fiat colours, whereas most manufacturers just needed one or two. Kinda gives you a clue 🙂
With that schedule I can’t see how a change of clear is going to help throughput, but he’s the boss and I’ve learnt my lesson on that one 😆
I hope you don’t mind me saying, but that does sound like a very leisurely way of doing things. I don’t know what kind of work you’re doing there though so maybe it’s right.
[quote=”gtome” post=30082]And also I taped the truck off and I know he didnt blend into a bodyline!?? And no aresol blender. He said he was just going to carefully polish it away from where he sprayed and it would be fine. Which it was? Dont ask me how.
[/quote]It depends on the clear, and of course the guy putting it on, but it is certainly possible to fade the clear out that way. For the sake of the extra few seconds it takes to blend it out though, with the easier and less risky polishing that would result, I know which method I’m sticking with 😉
Can I ask exactly what your boss thinks he’s going to achieve by trying out so many different products? At the end of the day he’s going to save what, 5 to 10 minutes bake time by picking a faster clear? Is that really going to make any discernible difference to his throughput?
I bet there are others areas where he could easily save just as much time, if not more. Like more efficient preparation and masking methods for a start. Look for a single visit clear (if the RM isn’t suitable) as that will save you the same amount of time as a slightly quicker bake, but you won’t be running the risk of a poorer finish that takes longer to polish (wasting all of that precious time he’s saved).
[quote=”gtome” post=30092] Fact is, water is slower than solvent.[/quote]
[quote=”gtome” post=30100]Ok, thats a good point, I dont know how to spray water. [/quote]
Can’t really add much to that as you’ve shot yourself right in the foot.
I’m not going to beat up on you as I don’t think that’s helpful, but just take a look around this place. There are plenty of experienced painters, and some very experienced ones. Some that have sprayed solvent for years and now spray water. If they say it is faster then you can take is as gospel. By all means go ahead and do your experiment, but whatever the outcome your results won’t change the minds of those of us that already know from experience.
I urge you to sit back and soak up the wealth of knowledge and experience that is on here. I’ve been at this job for 18 years now. Not long compared to some, but long enough to say I’ve got a good idea what I’m doing. I regularly learn new things on here though so I’m sure there’s plenty for you to pick up too 🙂
Welcome aboard Rep :welc
[quote=”Jayson M” post=30055]
How are going to learn to do it properly if nobody shows you??Why isn’t mr.guru showing you??[/quote]Maybe mr guru is one of those that doesn’t want to show the new guy all of his tricks in case he gets just as good….
Thanks Guys.
Because we get the paint repackaged by a smart repair company I don’t think we ever have direct contact with a rep. The database shows as last being updated 03/2011, so very out of date!
I’ll speak to my boss and see what he can sort, although there’s been talk of us moving over to Dupont. Not looking forward to that if it happens from what I’ve heard about it.
Question 🙂
I’m using mixit2. Is there any way of finding a list of current and/or superseding tinters?
Reason I ask is because I’m pretty sure it hasn’t been updated in a while and I seem to have loads of tinters with very similar numbers, and some that I don’t have at all. For example I pulled a colour up today that required 356. I don’t have it so used 355 :blush: I also pulled on up that has 350. I don’t have that either but managed to find another mix without it.
I also seem to have masses of pearl / mica ones that I never use so I’m wondering if they are old / new versions of the same. Maybe not, but you never know. I can’t remember the exact numbers off hand but I have some that are 332, 333, and 334, followed by the same letter(s)
Thanks :cheers
Glad it’s working out for you, and I did say the ICRIS system was good.
Did you get it linked up to your scales in the end? Makes mixing more or less foolproof and you can pull off some useful data if you’re that way inclined.
Is it quite common for you guys to use cameras for colour identification? I’ve never worked with a system that includes a camera so have never had the chance to use one.
[quote=”ryan999″ post=29920]If you try and get too much peel it better be a clean paintjob. I think they look worse if you have a panel full of flat spots and peel everywhere else.[/quote]
I hear you on that one.
I used to work with a guy that refused to even try and match OE peel. Everything was slick. His argument was like you say, if I have to polish some crap out of it I’ll end up with a flat spot on a peely panel.
Mind you that was way back when we were using a 1.2 suction gun (W200) and MS clears. Flat was easy back then :rofl
[quote=”gtome” post=29889]Sorry yeah I meant seal before primer. We don’t really use much sealer here. Didn’t know if there was another step necessary between the normal steps.[/quote]
Nope, no extra steps.
Like I say, I’ve sprayed them back to back fresh with no problem so doing it some time down the line after the car has been cleared, baked, left the factory, sat around at a dealership for some time etc etc won’t throw up anything out of the ordinary. I would prime and sand, but that’s just me, sealer should be fine if you’ve feathered back correctly.