paul
Forum Replies Created
- Posts
the 900i is the compliant version of the 900 series the LVLP is simply the 900 the 900 is blue the 900i is gunmetal grey
its what i use and when i sold one of two i got off ebay BNIB for £50 each as no one bidded against me becouse basicly the name isnt well known, the guy i sold it too hung up his Sata 3000 RP and hasnt used it since for his clear jobs ,he now bases with it lol
made by Bersch and Fratscher Germany and voted worlds no 1 clearcoating gun by a European magazine ,have to say i agrea haveing used Sagola 3300 and 4400 models amongst many others inc 2000 and 3000 RP,s it even bettered my Walcom FX HA
now superceded by the Trifity model which will convert from LVLP to compliant simply by swopping out the aircap you no longer need to buy two separate guns if you dont wish to
downside the pots are flimsy and the seal on the lid breaks away so after a while they leak ,the lids are even worse than sata in that respect however i have found a solution and now use a spuriuos pot instead ,overall build quality is superior to Sata ,no plastic nobs to break and wear loose and a much nicer air micrometer
price i think is cheaper than Sata but to be honest Sata are not the guns i would choose and are IMO way over pricedanyway the Optima 900i is definatly the finest clearcoating gun i have owned and i have owned many guns
i use a Walcom Geo ,sensational for blends
i suppose with the vastly increased surface area once wetted down it would take much longer to dry out and be a nice dust trap
[quote=”Andy T” post=29111][quote=”ARTSPRAY” post=29105]i can see absolutly no advantage to useing waterbased for such an aplication as your are just makeing extra work for an inferior job[/quote]
Maybe the OP doesn’t have a choice. Certainly when I was in a compliant bodyshop it was water or nothing :)[/quote]
correct me if im wrong but compliancy doese not automaticaly require water ,the rule is VOC compliance not an insistance on waterbased ,just becouse manufacturers decided to use waterbased in order to comply was not a compulsary decision and many companies now have compliant solvent systems with VOC reading even lower than waterbourne systems
that apart we are talking tinted clearcoat aplications and as far im aware there is also no requirment for clears to be waterbased
the main issue if a waterbourne basecoat was used would be that of adhesion to plastic as waterbourne requires a physical adhesion so would require the plastic to be sanded which would in the case of clear or transparant plastics create a hazey finish and still have adhesion issues ,as far as i am aware there is not a viable adhesion promoter to allow waterbourne to aplied indirectly to a plastic surface ,if used without any scratch or a suitable adhesion promoter the waterbourne would simply peel off ,thus choice is severly limited imo
Paul
you are asking for a fail with waterbased binders plus the added difficulty with aplication
i can see absolutly no advantage to useing waterbased for such an aplication as your are just makeing extra work for an inferior job
one way is to extend black single stage with clear untill you achieve the transparancy you require ,candy tends to fade where pigment is far more lightfast
Pauli have used a lot of lesonal HS extra over the past few years and found it excelent however i also use Technicote UHS 7.5 litre kits at £30 plus VAT for as long and found them astonishingly good ,flats back and buffs up great when required
the main thing i have found is to avoid thinners in HS and UHS clears as most any issues i have encountered have been when the clears are thinned ,ie solvent pop die back and sinkage
sorry my bad lol ,i would always suggest the roughest grit possible that the product will cover usualy on steel i would use 80 grit but even 180 should be good enough for a physical key
i have just read it and it doese say the bare metal has to be sanded ,sugest you take another gander at it
SUBSTRATES:
OEM replacement parts
Properly sanded or blasted steel
Properly cleaned or sanded aluminum, galvanized steel, or stainless steel
Properly sanded SMC/fiberglass/body fillers/polyester puttiesto the best of my knowledge there is a bushing in the HVLP air passage ,it may be possible to remove this and if so it may allow the gun to be used with an RP set up [quote=”whitey” post=28468]How you doing fellas,
Just a quick question, can I swap the air cap and nozzle in an rp for a hvlp set to convert the gun?
Cheers[/quote]
a tip when aplying the second colour ,to avoid creep under first spray some clear binder over the taped edge ,this should create a good seal and any creep under will be from the clear base not your colour so wont matter
Paul
i would be very tempted to try copper weld through paint then clear it ,unsure about delam issues but its something i will be atempting ,this would give you a superb copper finish much like the chrome effect paints
the other way would be candy dyes over chrome effect but this would be an extremly expensive paintjob,i think there is a coppertone version available now maybe ven based on the copper weld through pigments
there are also copper pearls but they will not give the proper metal effect but could be very effective depending on the viewing distance
Paul
ive been airbrushing for a few years now ,i got into it as i was doing more and more bikes ,the bikes led to the interest in airbrushing as it seemed a natural progresion from basic custom painting
fire is one of the most lucrative techniques ,hard to grasp initialy but when mastered it is so easy and pays very very well compared to more intricate mural and graphic work
if your going to learn one technique the fire would be my recomendation as it is still very popular even though its been around for anumber of years ,if you can do it well customers will seek you out for it
Paul
im interested in just how these SMART franchises work other than very well for the company seling them lol basicly why dont people just set up indendantly and source thier own materials etc
i would check with Sikkens regarding storage temp issues as i cant se being frozen would do these any good whatsever ,homogenisation is a very real concern as waterbased paints are designed for a stir free use ,if they split after freezing and defrosting you may start getting some real problems other than viscosity issues ,have you asked the company running the show why they havent addressed this in any way ?
i know as a self employed person you cant just stop when the weather gets cold but there is also a practical limit where products will start to fail or maybe even be destroyed ,most paint systems will warn against exposure to frost and freezing temps and the golden rule when i was being taught the game was if you can see your breath its too cold to spray
personaly i would asking some questions as it is your phone that will be ringing over warrenty issues
Paul