paul
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If you want more hand speed out of a supernova you will have to tweak the fan in ,they lay wide and flat and softly which reduces hand speeds but covers more area ,take the fan in a couple of inches and you will get the speed you want from it
I have a LPH300 1.2 with an LV4 aircap and fluted nozzle ,it runs nicely at the recommended 14 PSI for base,its fantastic for silver blends ,these are dynamic pressures ie fully triggered inlet pressure and should in effect let the aircap pressure run at 10PSI or below ,so yes they may seem low when compared to the recommended HVLP inlet pressure for say a Devilbiss GTI or Sata HVLP which is 29PSI but what comes out the aircap is still only 10PSI with those guns as well ,Iwata guns may just be designed differently and convert the inlet pressure in a different way to most other brands of HVLP conversion guns
Sherwin Williams have a recommendation to reclear next day without flatting or scotching which they say will fill the solvent pops
just make an adapter to fit on a spray gun fluid input
I posted about making these a few years ago and as far as I know I was the first to do so,great that someone had the ingenuity to use a those cheap drills as the foundation for a hand held unit ,At the time i was looking for the correct light spectrum to use in a he airbrush studio ,these are being used for photography and where being recommended on such forums ,I then made the leap to use them as sunguns ,the 3M version being a total rip off like a lot of the technology sold to bodyshops by such companies
Bulldog AP does not requir an acivator it is a single K product
ALSA is basicly a self etching clear andnot at all cheap ,Bradleys SMART repair do one which in the uk comes as a 1.5 litre kit for under £30 ,adhesion promoter works well enough or try a very thin coat of PPG transparant sealer ,its a 5 to 1 mix but ad plenty of thinners and kep it to one light coat for chrome or it has some opacity ,another trick would be to use paints designed for glass ,they are very transparant just like autmotive candies
there is another product on the market called Diamond clear which will adhear to anything like shit to a blanket
there are many claims for turbine HVLP systems but ask yourself this question ,why isnt it the industry standard system in bodyshops around the world ?;-)
the main issue with HVLP especialy turbine HVLP is its inability to atomise heavier materials such as high solids clears and direct gloss ,it also lacks the velosity required to get these heavier materials on the panel and they fall out of flight reducing transfer rates instead of “as claimed” increasing them ,what they do often achieve is a much poorer finish than with more conventional higher pressure systems although when dealing with lower viscosity materials such as basecoats they can excell in all departments
from folk in the know i have been reliably informed that DeBeers is by far the best B grade paint system available
HOK UK candy and HOK UC35 are both MS urathanes ,the mix ratio is 1part product 1 part hardener and 1 part thinner which makes for a piss thin mix ,Kosmoski never mentions the 2 hour recomended bake cycle for his Urathanes which makes for a very expensive repaint ,i have lost count of the amount of solvent pop and drying issues people have had issues with in regard to HOK urathanes ,of course it is always “pilot error” though 😉
as for Sata guns unlike many other manufacturers the Sata aircaps are matched to tip size hence why Sata recomed full open settings as the fluid and fan size are optimised ,well as long as viscosity is within the scope of that particular tip size ,even with my old RP2000 1.2 i found it did not require any more than 2.1 bar triggered as after that it just produced more overspray mist with no real improvement in atomisation anyway
yes and you can also reclear without scuffing ,which according to Sherwin Williams will also cure solvent pop issues without resorting to sanding back and rebasing the job [quote=”hating-painting” post=34727][quote=”ARTSPRAY” post=34721]along with the other sound advise the addition of aroun 10 to 20% activator in you base will reduce the rick of a reaction ,you can of course leave the job till the next morning then rebase without flatting as the base will crosslink to the still relativly fresh clear[/quote]
You are saying you can let clear air dry over night and apply base without scuffing?[/quote]
Kosmoski claims a lot of things for his paint system ,and when they go tits up House Of Kolor blame a lot of things other than their products 😉
i got sick to death of people on forums having drying issues with UC35 and all the so called HOK experts blaming moisture or old activator even after the the guy had said he used a sealed tin
HOK tech sheets say 2 hour bake for UC35 ,i have used the shit and it dont cure out properly so applying five full coats in one hit is playing with fire ,solvent pop is one issue ,heavy texture another ,curing times are dramticaly increased and ultimatly trapped solvent will bite you in the arse weeks or months down the line ,and just because some one did something it does not prove it works long term
also there is a big difference between what you think you saw done and what was actualy going on .five coats ! ,but at what gun settings ? with the fliud turned right down then you may be only achieveing the same mills as with two heavy coats anyway 😉
along with the other sound advise the addition of aroun 10 to 20% activator in you base will reduce the rick of a reaction ,you can of course leave the job till the next morning then rebase without flatting as the base will crosslink to the still relativly fresh clear
this is more to do with legal requirments than workers rights ,never mind buying your own mask he should e supplying and maintaning the equipment and it should be up to spec regulation wise
just a mask is not enough you alsoe need the fresh air set ups to preclean the compressed air before it gets to the carbon filter on the mask which is only there as back up not a primary filter system ,and to put things bluntly im fucked if i would wear a used mask ,the old sprayer may have had the clap TB or AIDS for all you know
high quality materials are essential ,I always double laka a show job even three or four seperate sessions when burying graphics ,the first clear session usually dies back due to the blotting action of the basecoat ,the second will hold a superior gloss ,with heavy metal flake jobs you can be into at least four sessions with weeks between sessions to allow full cure and the product to shrink back properly prior to final coating
over the years i have learnt not to exceed 3 coats in any one session when using high solids 2K ,i find most modern 2K clears unlike old single pack lacquers will not tolerate excessive build in a single session ,gone are the days of twenty thirty plus coats of laka
Paul