paul
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build qualty of the AirGunza is much better than the devilbiss finishline 5 ,the older finishline 3 can be retrofitted with a GTI 110 cap and is a better built gun
the HTE is actualy AirGunsa’s top gun and although Iwata promote it as a primer surfacer gun it lays clear as well as any top end gun ,probably too good for the price and comparable with some of Iwatas own top end guns hence why Iwata play it down as a primer surfacer gun 😉
BTW it is also available with an uprated “S” cap for even better results
try thinning it with alcohol ,alcohol evaporates much faster then water ,technicaly waterbased paint doese not “flash” it evaporates or rather the water and other solvents in the mix do “yes water is a solvent” ,isopropyle alcohol works well with most waterbased products as doese proplylene glycol AKA antifreeze “the safe form of” its the same stuff used in toothpastes cosmetics and some foods ,i have always found airflow more important than heat when dryibg out waterbased paints but heat will help
i know some will say this is playing chemist but if the product wont play by itself then either change product or play around a bit to get it working for you 😉
oh and in my experiance i have found compliant guns with smaller tip sizes play better with water as i find i can dust it on finer which tends to not trap the water in thick layers like a HVLP can often do ,the higher pressure of a compliant will evaporate some water enroute to the panel whilst a HVLP will lay the lot down altogether ,too thick and the product will skin over before it has dried out trapping moisture in which then takes substantialy longer to force dry
[quote=”Ben” post=32917][quote=”Andy T” post=32916][quote=”Ben” post=32914]First we should maybe change some terminology. “Thinner” usually refers to lacquer thinner. “Reducer” is the appropriate term when referring to modern paints (enamels/urethanes).
[/quote]It’s that language thing again 🙂
Richie is from the UK like me and we still use the term “thinners” almost universally over here. I try to remember to use the term “reducer” when on here though to avoid confusion. Even more confusing is that what you call lacquer, we call cellulose (in either clear or single stage variants)and we still almost always use the terms “lacquer” when we really mean clear coat 😆
Apart from that I agree with everything you said.
Rich – the long and the short is that your supplier could well be right. Some paint companies do use a range of universal thinners / reducers that can be used in everything from primers through to base and top coats. It isn’t always the case though, but if your supplier knows his products and says it will work then I’d be inclined to take his advice :)[/quote]
Why do people from Great Britian have to muddy up the English language? :lol[/quote]
thats rich since its our language hehe lol ,but yes we use the term thinners as the product thins the paint out ,to reduce would be to make smaller would it not ? ,in cooking reduction makes things thicker not thinner ,hopefully i have made this clear as mud for you now hehe ,actualy both terms are valid as reducers in the contextof paint “reduce” the viscosity anyone not familar with the reduction of viscosity ,this is to make a liquid THINNER LOL
willenhall 😉
carl phone Mick Neill at custompaintstudio ,Mick is an official UK Anest Iwata dealer and my mate ,if the gunzas are still on dealer discount he will give you a good deal on them
http://www.custompaintstudio.com/
the Iwata Bellaria is based on the W400 but with the flat wide pattern of the supernova ,much cheaper to buy and service than the nova ,however after all that my mate got himself a couple of AirGunza HTI guns and they lay clear fantasticly for less than £100 a piece ,there is also an S model which is supposed to be even better but from the results i have seen with the Gunza HTI so far im very impressed with the basic HTI
personaly i think having a reasonable quality gun and getting to know it well is the key to good results ,i never pay a lot for my guns so i tend to swop and change just for the hell of it ,i have used the supernova and they do work very well indeed but would i splash out top doller for one ,hhmmm
i have and use the older optima 900i ,best clearcoat gun i have used yet so if the trfity is as good then you wont go far wrong, the Nordson version is bargain at £199 plus VAT in the UK and sprayguns direct sell a lot back to Germany and Europe ,my Optima is actualy branded as a Rupes ,you can buy Sata guns as Wurth models ,Devilbiss also rebrand as do Binks, ANI and many other manufacturers
with HVLP guns you normaly require larger tip sizes than with compliant guns for clearcoating ,a 1.0 compliant gun wiill lay a superb finish but you would have add extra thinners to get it through the tip at a reasonable rate to keep things wet enough as it will be extremly slow going compared to larger tips ,my preferance for a supr fine finish through a compliant gun is a 1,2 set up but used correctly a 1.4 can give ultrafine results as well ,mostly people forget they can restrict a 1.4 to spray exactly the same as a much smaller tip so rather than changing you tip try adjusting your fluid control nob uuntill you get what you want
the issue is often the soft waxes not the actual clearcoat ,wax will mark extremly easily ,i like to use a fluffed cotton material but ultimatly you will never achieve perfection other than aplying a perfect flowcoat and no polishing whatsoever ,once wax is aplied your back to the same issue agian though
AA is a custom paint system not designed at all for crash repair etc ,it can be used for full repaints as well as airbrush work ,i have used it many times for custom bike repaints and use it a lot for my artwork ,it is designed to be as near to non toxic as possible so lacks the chemical complexity of most bodyshop waterbourne systems ,lay it light and let it dry through between coats or you will have problems with it
on a note as someone mentioned transfer rates of conventional guns being low ,this is a fallacy and they are no where nears as bad as is often claimed in fact with HS materials they can achieve higher transfer rates than HVLP ,take for instance the Devilbiss JGA Pro ,it has a transfer rate of 63% only fractionaly below a compliant gun ,HVLP lacks the velocity needed to keep heavier material in flight and as such this can dramaticaly effect its transfer rates when used with heavier materials ,but heres another concideration ,conventional guns give by far the finest finish results so you wont need to sand off all the “extra” paint you put on with those inferior HVLP guns ,its one thing putting more paint on the panel but very much another if it goese on like pudding 😉
if you want to put what i am saying to the test try comparing a conventional gun with a HVLP using high build primer and whatch the spatter all over the floor off the HVLP whilst the conventional will keep everything nice tight and even ,if the HVLP can actualy cope at all with high build that is 😉
i have had a few Walcom guns and i rate them very highly ,the older STM mini was a fantastic little gun i wouldnt mind trying the Ego myself so if your getting a decent deal i would say grab it
amonia will strip chrome so its not unfeasable to chemicaly strip them yourself
looks like cheap product failure ,maybe 20 or 30 years back there where good single pack systems available but nowadays they seem to junk aimed at so restoration home hobby aplications ,the cracking slash splitting could well be due the clear going brittle over a softer basecoat
36 grit on a grinder then DA it with 80 ,high build primer jobs a gud un