paul
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im another who doesnt like HOK clears although i havent tried thier latest compliant range ,the old UC35 never seems to cure out right ,stays soft too long to the point its almost tacky next day ,a recomended 2 hour bake also makes it very expensive ,HOK is definatly an over rated system and some of their KK’s arent very lightfast so you realy have to check the specs for any particular one in that respect
i can buy 1000 plastic mixing cups for about £90 delivered ,made by Dolphin plastics and exactly the same cup as they brand up for Devilbiss but without the devilbiss name embosed on the bottom ,1000 strainers are about £43 delivered ,good cleaning practices like wiping the cup clean before using thinners helps cut costs so overall i cant see much advantage in using a disposable system,maybe if the chinese start making a cheap system i may convert but at present i think they are mostly overpriced and overestimated for time saved
[quote=”MetRamos” post=31357]That’s what one of my questions was going to be, if I used a better quality clear with UV protection, would it help against fading?[/quote]
yes but dye is still fugent compared to most automotive pigments ,you can buy UV additives and bolster up your clears even further
basicly UK is a clear with dye in it and is a tad more difficult to apply than dye in a basecoat binder ,any runs in UK will show as extremly dark patches and are extremly difficult to rectify ,sags will also show as dark patches ,UK must be cleared as it cannot be buffed effectivly as you risk rub through and light patches being created
most pro’s i know use a basecoat candy not UK becouse of aplication issues ,base being a hell of a lot easier to get right
[quote=”MetRamos” post=31358][quote=”ARTSPRAY” post=31355]anyline dyes fade ,the only reason UK is supposed to be more lightfast is the UV inhibitors in the product however with additional UV aditives added to any clear you can extend the life of a candy job ,if your not that experianced i would not advise UK i would go for a concentrate in binder as you intended DB 500 is a good one in my book
load your binder up to a max of 4to1 to avoid bleed into your clear i would also advise adding activator to your bases for stability when doing a three stage such as a candy ,use about 10% activator in your base after mixing ,as above additional UV screan is a wise move for any dye based job as no dye is lightfast and all will fade ,some worse than others[/quote]
I’m not really sure on your mixing tips, as I’m fairly new to this industry. You mean mixing the concentrate 4:1 with the dB500? And activator being what? Reducer?[/quote]
you should use no more than 20 percent concentrate to binder ie 4 to 1 reduce the binder as per manufacturers recomended ignoring the concentrate in the mix ,as i said add activator i mean 2K activator to your base mixes inc your ground colour ,this is a stabilty recomendation and most basecoat systems can be activated to set them up as a single stage paint or for added stability and also to reduce reactions ,the addition of activator also increases the time window for clearing from 24 to 48 hours ,some manufacturers are recomending the addition of activator when doing high film builds such three stage jobs
i didnt mean you lol i was generalising hehe
anyline dyes fade ,the only reason UK is supposed to be more lightfast is the UV inhibitors in the product however with additional UV aditives added to any clear you can extend the life of a candy job ,if your not that experianced i would not advise UK i would go for a concentrate in binder as you intended DB 500 is a good one in my book
load your binder up to a max of 4to1 to avoid bleed into your clear i would also advise adding activator to your bases for stability when doing a three stage such as a candy ,use about 10% activator in your base after mixing ,as above additional UV screan is a wise move for any dye based job as no dye is lightfast and all will fade ,some worse than others
always “more speed less haste” 😉
cant see a reason for it myself ,however if we want to get pedantic the best thing is to connect the gun direct to the hose with no QD and set things up off the wall to avoid loss of CFM
change the guage then ,they are usualy 1/8 BSP as standard 😉
fuck 3M the robbing bastards ,heres the link to their bulbs 😉 https://www.solux.net/cgi-bin/tlistore/infopages/index.html
What is SoLux?
SoLux is a patented light source that provides an unparalleled replication of natural daylight. Use of SoLux in many of the world’s top museums including the Musee d’Orsay, Van Gogh, and Guggenheim Museum is testament to its unmatched color quality. SoLux also has eight times the life and twice the efficiency of standard incandescent sources, does not contain the mercury found in fluorescent lights sources, and is a fraction of the cost of LED sources. SoLux is now available in line voltage PAR format. To purchase SoLux click on the Products tab above.the sungun uses solux bulds these are available for about £6.50p online the 3M sungun is a big money making overpriced scam ,just fit the Solux bulds into an apropriate 12volt rechargable lamp ,theres one ebay seller doing these homemade versions for £65 using a cheap rechargable B&Q torch
i researched all this a few years ago the Solux is 4700 kelvins with 99% CRI colour rendering index its basicly sunlight in bulb ,avalable in various angles from spot to flood ,check out photograph forums they are well into the Solux bulbs
Paul
it isnt supreme acuracy you require it is consistant readings you need ,dont matter of your traditional guage is 5 psi out as long as it is consistantly 5 psi out ,the trouble with digital guages is when they play up the can become inconsistant where a traditional guage is actualy more reliable in this respect ,all in all you dont need hyper acurate gun guages just consistant ones
far better are under gun diaphragm regulators as restrictor types create surging if your line pressures are high
i am currently using Upol clear and i realy dont like it,whilst a can get a decent finish off the gun it seems to die back especialy if i go for three coats ,also it doesnt like rocket or too much heat to quickly ,i also noticed if i go gor three coats it tends to peel and also die back and pinch up ,,not my choice of clear but the shop owners ,ive used cheaper that is better
oh and 29 psi is a tad on the low side for a compliant gun
paul
three good coats of clear over the grafix 400 DA reclear ,been doing bikes like this for the past ten years or so 😉
deoderants ,deisel cars on start up ,rings on you compressor , solvent base will be fine as it sort of self degreases but clear wont ,this is often a sign your compressor is passing oil