paul
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no real secret they just dont put much paint on bikes ,with kawasaki they dont use a primers either which is why there tanks go rusty .if you want to replicate the finish use a mini gun and also keep you basecoat piss thin ,add thinners to your clear and use a fine tip ,i found amy sata MY 4 with either a the 1.2 or 1.0 works fine
no real secret they just dont put much paint on bikes ,with kawasaki they dont use a primers either which is why there tanks go rusty .if you want to replicate the finish use a mini gun and also keep you basecoat piss thin ,add thinners to your clear and use a fine tip ,i found my sata MJ 4 with either a the 1.2 or 1.0 works fine
at that age i suspect you will opening a tin of solid activator ,the activator being the more reactive product
its simple realy ,do a test spray with it ,if it sprays OK then anything else is the customers issue ,i certainyl would warrenty the job thats for sure but i have used 20 year old basecoats with absolutly no issues
i have a 1.4 900i and my friend dropped his 1.3 RP in favour of a 1.4 900i i sold him ,although these seem to lay heavily the clear then “magicly” lays down flatter than most any gun i have used, i must admit i do dial mine in though but i know my mate uses his wide open
personaly i would have chosen a smaller tip size ,even with a Sata RP or my old Walcom FXHA i prefered a 1.2 but when they came up BNIB on ebay at £50 a piece i wasnt going to get tooo fussy about tip sizes 😉
im very happy with my 900i but i would love to get my hands on a thrifity cos it looks ,realy cool and im sucker for looks hehehe plus my experiance with Befrag guns has been overall a very posative one ,pots are worse than Sata though lids fail faster and the actual pots turn on the metal fittings which scraps the actual pot as they then leak
Optima 900i 😉
:hij:
no i had no intentions for it other than to make few quid selling it on ,i suppose it would make an excelent primer surfacer gun though but from what i gather it is actualy a refinishing gun probably very usefull for larger vehicles or just choke it back a bit as the aircaps arent matched to tip size like some other models
[b][color=#ff0000]PROFESSIONAL PAINTING SYSTEMS
The 4100 G Conventional Spray Gun has been specifically designed by Sagola to give outstanding finishes when used with conventional paints.Technical Data
Air pressure in cap: 0.68 bar
Inlet working pressure: max. 2 bar[/color][/b]the full specs are on the link provided on the classified add i posted here 😉
i often buy up guns/equipment to sell on
rgds Paul
if anyone is interested i have a BNIB 1.6 Sagola 4100G gun for sale they are currently £406 inc from sprayguns direct UK i want £150 ono for it
medium pressure high speed aplication
PM me if your interested ,i do have PayPal
Paul
increasing the distance can create mottling ,i have found that colour that are prone to tiger striping are also prone to mottling ,whilst a drop coat is good for evening things out mostly as i said before an even fan pattern at the optimum distance is best ,basicly its all about practice and technique ,another trick is to lay a similar colour you know doesnt tend to stripe for the first coat ,ie lay a good covering fine silver first which can counter a more transparant heavy grade silvers tendancy to stripe
some of these old school gaffers are like f###in tadpoles you cant get the feckers out the flatting bucket and onto dry land and they wonder why the jobs are taking too long
check your spray pattern and work at the apropriate distance ,the more transparant the mix the more chance of creating tiger stripes ,the more even the spray pattern the better ,centre heavy patterns are always an issue so try to adjust the gun accordingly but side heavy patterns can also be an issue ,mostly i find that once you stripe on the first coat it wont cover up easily or with highly transparant colours will actualy worsen no matter what your do
my preference was for the 1.2 RP however theres nothing stopping the fluid being restricted down for finer results from any gun realy
never mind your prefered block i find the most critical piece of “equipment” is easy sanding filler 😉 the rest is down to how good a sculpter you are
i mainly tune my aibrushes for increased laminar flow and hign detailing ability which requires instant reaction ,some of my airbrushes are as small as 0.1 tip size ,i also rematch aircaps to nozzles to optimise the venturi action ie vacume that pulls the paint through the tip
i certainly wouldnt recomend the use of scuff pad or any abrasive material to clean a spray gun ,the idea of scuffing is to increase the adhesion of paint to any surface ,i have myself polished the internals of my guns and the needles which is a tunning technique ,scuffing would be a de tunning technique imo all that said flushing with solvent is all that is normaly required to get any gun perfectly clean
when it comes to polishing internals then i use polishing compounds often on a suitable pointed dowl which will conform to the shape of the internal part ,a cocktail stick or scewer doese nicely for the inside of a fluid tip ,i use a slow speed rechargable drill ,which i also use for polishing the needles ,they can be refined on 1500 paper then 2000 then trizact then compounded up to mirror finish
like polishing and porting an engine this will optimise fluid flow and also make future cleaning easier
with due care and atention airways can also be polished for increased laminar airflow
