Ben Hart
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I’m sure many here will be willing to help. The Red Seal training we do here in Canada is very similar and somewhat based on the ASE info.
That is fairly common with many tri stage colours (just not whites).
Only caution I would give is to use a ground coat of something similar or use a tinted (or value shaded primer). Some can be very transparent.
Welcome to the site.
A little more info may help. What was your process in prepping and painting? What products are you using? Did you use a water or solvent base coat? Where there any stone chips in the peeling area? How long was it out of your shop before it began peeling?
I did wind up buying the RP version of the SATA. I got a 1.6 tip which seems to work well with our primer (although the Sherwin Williams rep suggested possibly going to a 1.4). It’s a very nice gun and sprays great. I am very happy.
Thanks for the recommendations everyone
If you have a DuPont jobber near and want an economical product, then I highly recommend Nason 421-17 (421-19). Very user friendly and good build
I agree with Jayson. Looking for a used booth is typically very cost effective. Also a lot easier if you are getting it inspected…
And a26x14 booth is typical in size, but often more room would be better. I would consider 14′ wide the minimum. 14′ feet feels pretty narrow once you get a dually in there…
I’ve used 4 brands of water base. All are quite different. Some of them are easy to sand and repair minor issues in the booth. With others it can be difficult or not possible.
Its very hard to comment on waterborne overall as everyone is so much more different than each other than the differences between solvent lines.
Second on Norton/Carbo. In our part of the world it is the best bang for your buck.
$75 for any working name brand inline sander sounds like a good price.
One thing I should clarify…
The inline sanders do vibrate a lot. In my right arm, I’ve torn the tendon at my elbow twice and broken my wrist before. With those injuries, it makes it a little difficult for me to hold onto this type of tool for anything more than a few minutes. Some of these sanders come with an orbital pattern (rather than straight line) and are a little easier to control but also a little slower.The straight line Hutchins Hustler is probably the most durable and most aggressive one out there. It works well, but in inexperienced hands can mess up your filler work quickly. Remember to keep the pad completely flat with the panel.
One alternate for just knocking filler down is a mud hog. It’s a large 8″ round sander ( I believe with an orbital pattern) and will knock the first bit if filler down a little quicker than an air board. Both would be good to eventually have if you do lots of filler work.
I don’t think the gold paper is all that great, but then again, it’s been many years since I used any. I’m not familiar with the filler. However, 180 grit is too fine to start blocking with. Most people will start with 80 and get it as close as you can. Then skim with a good putty, block that with 80-120 and finish anywhere from 180 to 220 before primer… Or some process very similar.
Blocking with 180 is way to slow and very hard to get the panel quite as straight as you like.
Hutchins probably makes the most reliable one.
They have their place, as well as their limitations. If you are working on thin metal (that flexes a lot) or aren’t completely sturdy handling the sander, you can make the panel much worse.
I no longer own one. I only used it on larger jobs and always finished my blocking by hand.
If you are doing a lot of filler work on large jobs with somewhat fla panels all the time, then it is very worth while. Otherwise use good products (filler, primer and high quality sandpaper) to make easy work of it by hand.
[quote=”Jayson M” post=32324]Keep in mind if you have gravel roads in your area or a tough environment sanding and etch will not last.[/quote]
I think here in Alberta, you might only get 6 months out of it if you are lucky.
The odd one we’ve done here, we’ve sent to the chrome shop to have the chrome stripped off.
I haven’t used as much poly primer as you guys, but I’ve always used urethane primer overtop. If you did just seal over it, I would wonder if using waterbourne base rather than solvent base would make any difference, and affect durability.
If you do just seal over it, I would definitely suggest using a high quality sealer.
Did you neutralize the chemical stripper immediately after using it?
Typically chemical stripping is used for single panels/smaller jobs, not entire cars. If there is any existing corrosion, media blasting or other means are necessary.Nonetheless, after chemical stripping, then neutralizing it, the panel should be dried well immediately. Within a day or two the bare metal should be sanded (usually with 180 on An random orbital sander). Then cleaned and primed immediately.
If the corrosion (flash rust) is minimal, a good sanding or light grinding should be good. If its gotten bad, then media blasting is they way to go. You can apply acid and such, but that is not a sure fire way to cure existing rust. In any case, prime the thing as soon as possible…epoxy or etch.
Sounds like they had a great opportunity to help with a project for a good cause… Most any reasonable business would have been happy to help with that.
Hopefully you are on your way to better things now