Ben Hart
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[quote=”Neat” post=32233]Just for the sake of increasing my own knowledge, why should you not put base in clear? Is the reasoning behind that based on the uncertainty of the chemicals and their compatibility with one another?
3 coats of clear, 600 wet, and another three coats of clear yields good results for me; but it has never produced the deep look that I’m hoping to achieve. Any other tips?[/quote]
Unless the paint manufacturer tells you to put base on the clear, don’t. Chemically speaking you can only guess what will happen and hope for the best. In many scenarios, the problems are not obvious and may affect durability down the road.
One thing to consider with the depth, is the product you are using. A cheaper medium solids clear with 2 coats generally won’t give as much depth as 2 coats of a higher quality high solids clear. I can spray cheap Nason 496/497 clear and have it lay very smooth and glossy, but compare that to a mediocre job sprayed with Sikkens Superior 250 clear and the difference is almost shocking.
Jayson made a great point about S.S. black. Use a good product (since you are using PPG) like Concept or Global direct gloss. It’ll be great. And if you really want it deep, sand it and spray a few coats of Global 894 clear on there. And then if you have someone capable enough, a good wet sanding/polishing will make it show worthy if all the steps were performed well.
As long as its on your own time and at does not involve them there should be no issue, unless you previously had a written agreement banning you from moonlighting.
Good luck sorting it out.
Not sure why my post showed as anonymous
I wouldn’t be surprised if the entire thing eventually peels. The Nason base needs the hardener. Without it, the base will only gel up and gets to be like latex paint.
In Nason base, the hardener is not optional. That will cause the issue right there.
On a blend panel, the entire panel should be scuffed with a grey scotch brite pad (wet with paste) or sanded dry or wet with 800-1000 grit. You will blend into the panel as needed with the base coat, then clear coat the entire panel as usual.
If you are sanding it dry the dust will look white/ powdery. One you blow it off and clean it with a water based cleaner, you will see that it is not an issue.
[quote=”Jayson M” post=32145]Not sure how cold it gets where you are but up here you need an air make up to keep a consistent temp(70-75)A cross flow will work fine as long as it has decent airflow(10,000cfm) and some heat.You can get away with portable blowers,thats all we have and we can still have good production.You will pay a little more for materials and in non perfect environment it could slow up production a bit.Honestly I think you would be better off switching to lesonal sb,decent color match and it will work for your environment,just my 2 cents.[/quote]
I have sprayed PPGs waterborne. It’s been discussed many times on this forum and everyone seems to like it.
I agree with Jayson, if I were to summarize the only minimal requirements to go from solvent to water, it would be just 2 things: heated booth and blowers. Everything else will work good. It’s not too hard to figure out how to use, especially the Envirobase. Very user friendly.
Without heat and good airflow it can be miserably slow in all water base lines. I would suggest sticking to any solvent line if heating is not an option…especially if you are in a humid climate.
That looks great. I really like the layout on the tank and saddle bags. I wish I were half as creative and artistic.
Looks good so far Jack. I look forward to more pics.
Welcome to the site.
I know some guys who work/have done mobile work. In our area there aren’t many any more. Up here the only real demand is in the spring/summer mostly on used car lots and the odd rental car. Not as much for retail.
That’s a very good point. None of the products stick well to melted plastic.
Do the float test, to see if you need adhesion promoter. Then v- out the cracks and grind around them at least an inch or two. You will want to use mesh on the back. 3m, fusor, norton all have good plastic products. Read the tech sheet for the product you are using and you will end up with a very strong repair.
With unknown plastics, I haven’t ever had much luck plastic welding.
Good luck
Nice job. Sounds like you’re much happier, than spending 100k to get a premium name brand booth installed.
What do you have for heating the booth air? What did you do for your exhaust?
[quote=”nearl4″ post=32062]How fast are you able to nib and buff it? They want me getting any nibs out before it goes back to reassembly. SW says surface temp has to be 140 degrees for 20 min then a 20-30 min cool down and it ready to go. I have found it is not even close to that fast. I can buff in he afternoon if I paint in the morning, but anything painted afternoon needs to sit for the night before I can get on it.[/quote]
The 757 can be buffed about an hour after bake…if your booth performs well. You need 140 degrees metal temp for 20 minutes. In my booth, that equaled a minimum 35 minutes baking. There are faster clears, that may work better for you. The HPC 21 I can easily denib after 30 minutes air dry. Mixing the 21 with the 755, I can bake for 15 minutes, then polish right after cool down.
Lots if other options for clears if the 757 isn’t performing the way you want.
[quote=”billgaino” post=32051]I would suggest a fast dry, cure, product. How about a 30 min clear. I would avoid a wet application, don’t give it time to bite in and wrinkle. I’m not sure exactly where your coming from, but I paint jambs with quick clears. For me, I can tape over the jambs quick for exterior paint. You want to protect the existing exterior, MY rule is , easier to keep overspray off than to clean it off later.[/quote]
I agree with Jayson. Epoxy is the best product. Unless you are hard lining it, the base would be sprayed just a hair further out than the sealer. Is this where you are concerned about any wrinkling?
You could try using a water base coat. Probably wont wrinkle the old lacquer(or be a lit less likely to anyway).