Ben Hart
Forum Replies Created
- AuthorPosts
Have you had a chance to try out Envirobase at your shop? Colour matches seem to be generally a little better. Maybe when you have time you could get your supplier to give you a demo.
Back on topic…when tinting the ground coat, it usually takes a very small amount. In most cases all I’ve had to add is a little black and/or yellow. Usually less than a few grams per sprayable pint.
When I used Sikkens, I had the same problem where most tri-stage whites were too white. I know what you mean about doing bumpers, no matter how good you get it its just never good enough for you :lol
That’s a good article. The biggest thing seems to be getting that ground coat just right. If you have time to do let down panels try using ground coats with mid coats from other formulas. That will often get you closer (more options at least). You should be fine adding a small amount of black to the ground coat. If it appears to grey, then I would think you may want to reconsider your mid coat choice.
I like to look at the formulas (and chips) for all colours. Then compare the formulas to decide if one alternates ground coat could be better matched to another mud coat. I’ve found with mixing and matching…and using the let down panel I rarely need to tint. And when I do tint, it winds up being minimal.
Are there any particular ones that are giving you trouble? I’ve found that the newer 800j vehicles are very inconsistent from factory. And often one panel on the vehicle is a little different from another.
When I used Global, the 893 was used on most jobs. With the slow reducer I’ve nearly sprayed a complete with it. Otherwise there was the 894, which was also great but I would pretty much reserve for large jobs and/or hot weather. There us a speed clear, but I don’t recall if I ever tried it. I was happy with the 893 so I never really bothered with anything else.
Glad to hear you liked it.
[quote=”johnmaloney88″ post=31103][quote=”Ben” post=31101]That is a gun I’m not too familiar with…sort of a cross between the GTi and a Tekna.
I would think that the H1 air cap with the 1.3 would spray the single stage paint well.[/quote]
hvlp guns only seem to be recommended for waterbase basecoat here. would a hvlp gun not give a orange peel finish?
also i only have the t1 and t2thanks for the reply[/quote]
Sorry, I meant to type T1.
Did you swap needles with the fluid tip? They should go together as a set.
Do you have a tech sheet for the paint you want to spray? I would be more likely to go the 1.3 if those were my options. Some of the different single stage paints I have used worked best with tips from 1.3 to 1.5 (depending on the product).
Some products just fill defects. Eventually you’ll see everything again. You need the cut polish to fully remove scratches (that were sanded out). Most problems are caused by not enough (not aggressive enough) of polishing before moving to any glaze. Try cleaning after each step with diluted alcohol or wax and grease remover. You will see of you got everything out or not before moving on.
That definitely isn’t right. A single stage urethane could use the same hardener as a clear coat (I seem to recall a system using this). However, using just any hardener with any paint is asking for trouble. It may dry ok, wbut who knows what will happen down the road.
The active chemical in urethane hardene is basically universal, but the quantity and other additives will vary greatly… Just like the resin and additives in the paint/ clear.
Thankfully my boss would never ask me to do something like that, but if he did I would tell him where to go.
- AuthorPosts
