Ben Hart
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[quote=”hating-painting” post=30650]Find somebody that can wet sand and polish the edge down a bit. A pin striper may be able to run a brush around the edges to straighten them up.[/quote]
Good thinking, that is probably the easiest/most economical way.
Welcome to the site. I’m sorry to see the issues you are having. Its always a tough one when someone close has good intentions, but issues evolve.
The way it was done is kinda outdated. Doing stripes with Single Stage (acrylic enamel) will always leave very sharp edges. With good technique, these can be minimized, but will still be there.
A more typical modern way to do it would have been to sand the entire panel that the stripe was going on (say with 600-1000 grit without sanding through the clear coat). Then tape out the stripes using a high quality tape (fine line) not regular automotive masking tape. Then mask off. The stripe could then be sprayed with base coat (either solvent or water based, and ensuring the fine line/striping tape is compatible). After flashing off (likely within 30 minutes) the tape could very carefully be removed (pulling on an angle). This would leave a clean crisp edge. The second colour could be taped, masked and painted a short time after that (the amount of time necessary depends on the brand of paint). Then unmasked as the first colour was. The last step would be to apply clear coat over the entire panel. The clear is the final step in the paint process that would give gloss to the paint and help fill in a little of the paint edge. In most cases, the edges between the colours would be very hard to detect (this is similar to how the factory might paint stripes and how most are done). If it is a really high end job, you could even resand the entire panels again, and re apply the clear. That could eliminate 100% of any paint edge.
So, the tough part now is trying to fix the stripes. YOu are probably going to have to resand the stripes so that they are feathered back and repaint them similar to how I described. If the Paint he put on is very thick (which is what it seems to be) than you are going to have a really tough time with that. You may wind up having to feather the stripes back a lot (to the point the are almost stripped off) and possibly prime the areas.
It is a lot of work and not something I would be doing in a garage. I am sorry to say it, but I cant think of a quick easy fix that will get you the results you want.
[quote=”60biscayne” post=30642]Do you know if any of the lower to med level base/clear products like Lesonol,Limco,Nason will have the same level of finish as the 3 stage paints? Thanks,[/quote]
I would highly suggest the Lesonal. Although mid range it is about as nice as any higher end base coat. I have used a fair bit if Nason and it has its place, but for the difference in price, the Lesonal is well worth it. The Nason probably won’t get you quite the effect you are looking for. The Nason line is cheap because they don’t spend any time matching colours, they just get something that is sorts close and that’s it. Lesonal has similar colour matching to better base coats and offers variants to aid in this. It has been a long time since I used any Limco, but it is similar to Nason. The newer Limco Supeeme might be better, but I have never used it.
Welcome to the site.
I don’t want to discourage you, but if you don’t have much experience painting than that colour may be challenging. As for cheap vs expensive paints, there are differences and in many cases it is worth spending the extra money.
The green you are looking to use is mixed as a 3- stage in some paint lines. Many of the cheaper paint lines (Omni, Nason etc) will not match very well and may not give you the desired colour in the end.
If you are dead set on this colour I would at least look into a mid-range paint line (like Lesonal) if not a higher quality product.
In any case, I suggest you test the colour out first to get use to spraying it (before spraying the entire car) and then you can verify that you get the colour/ finish you want.
[quote=”ding” post=30612]HVLP for base. RP for clear.[/quote]
If you’re a SATA slut, that is the way to go.
Since it hasn’t been mentioned in this thread yet…I’ll muddy things up and recommend the Tekna 🙂
[quote=”ding” post=30598]First photo made me think you were painting a pink car :whistle:[/quote]
Me too… I was visualizing some weird euro Mary-Kay clunker. 😉
Looks nice!
I sorta like painting those kind of jobs. A little work and they look so much better than before.
Looks like its all come out great…so close now! I look forward to seeing it assembled.
I used to use the 3M PPS cups, they wre good. But storing paint was a little awkward, and when the outter cup got old and dirty it wasn’t fun. I am using the SATA RPS cups now. They are very user friendly. Only complaint is that the lid can be easy to screw on a little off when in a hurry and not paying attention. Clicking the vent open/ closed takes a few weeks to get in the habit of remembering…
I use them for everything…I don’t own any cups for my guns. I wash out my clear ones and reuse them for primer and occasionally jambing (with a new lid and filter).
[quote=”5LEater” post=30441]just looking over an older thread ben, noticed you said you didnt care for the AWX quite so much, that coverage was poor as well as the colours? Is AWX and AWX Performance plus the same line or is the latter an upgraded version of AWX.[/quote]
AWX was their original waterborne. I had used some of it in ’09. I started at the shop I am in now last fall, using AWX Performance Plus. Sherwin Williams changed the product last year (not long before I started at the shop).
The Performance Plus uses a little different binder, completely different product for reduction (now it is just distilled water). A few toners have been changed/replaced, and they are using a different manufacturer appearantly. It is much, much better. The colour library has been expanded (much better colour matches now). With the Performance Plus, coverage is very good for most colours. I am very impressed with Reds, generally cover in 2-3 coats (even PRH over most shades of sealer). The coarse metallics, blues and some whites can a little transparent, but generally cover in 3 coats.
I have had to tint a few colours ( mostly crappy less comon GM colours), but overall most colours are really good. You do need to check the variants as the standard formulas are rarely the best.
Check the link… I covered most of that info already 🙂
With poor airflow and no heat, you will want to use the blowers. You can apply the base it lighter coats to speed up the drying. The orientation coat is very important, like in Autowave. The toners are water based… Not quite like a converted solvent.
The HPC 21 will definitely be your friend for small jobs (up to 2-3 panels).
Any more questions, just let me know.
[quote=”Jayson M” post=30434]Thanks for the honest comparison Ben,I am always interested in reviews of other systems good or bad. :cheers[/quote]
No problem. I like hearing others opinions, and why. Not just hearing someone say something is the best, or that it sucks. A lot of that stuff often pans out to be not true, and may be based more in a guys experience ( or lack of)
[quote=”toyotapainter” post=30429]hey ben how do u commpair it to sikkens autowave and clears and all?[/quote]
Well, they are both good systems in my opinion.
-P27 primer is easy to use, but with it being preflexed, sanding odd areas (like in jambs) isn’t great (kinda rubbery until you knock the top off). When converted to a sealer it works ok too. Sprays decent, you cannot put it on heavy, it is very difficult to denib (quick to flash, slow to cure enough to sand…also kind rubbery). Doesn’t lay quite as flat as colour build plus250…but they did give an optional mixing ratio with a lot more solvent to help with that. In my opinion, it is probably the least desirable product in our system…although it really isn’t all that bad, either.
-AWX Performance Plus, is an updated version of AWX, and is better for it. It is easy to mix, easy to spray…metallic control and blending is great with most colours. Very fast to flash off, and very easy to denib if needed. Colour match is very good, but Autowave is better. Oddly enough, the problem colours I had in Autowave are excellent with the AWX. The metallic colours do cover better with Autowave. In my opinion Autowave is the better base, but the AWX Performance Plus gives it a very good run for the money.
-As for clears, the Superior 250 is obviously a great product that is hard to screw up. However, I believe the SW clears are better for the environment I am in. I use the 755 clear (slow high end clear, great for large jobs and completes). It is easy to use, sprays like older clears, can lay very flat and has very good gloss & depth. The HPC 21 is great for bumpers and small jobs. Air dry in about 20 minutes…excellent gloss and depth as well. With it, however, you must use the right solvent, allow no new than 1 minute flash and you must hammer that shit in. If you do everything right, it won’t die back and looks great. It is somewhat finicky, though. Lastly I also have the 757 clear. It is a high solids production clear. It can be a little finicky too, but for the most part is easy to use. When spraying, there is an obvious difference on solid content from the other 2 clears, so you need to adjust accordingly.
The reason I said the SW clears are better for our environment is simply because all 3 of them are much softer the 250, and therefore much easier to polish. With our booth, we can get jobs out fairly clean, but all horizontal parts do need some denibbing. Much quicker and easier with the SW clears than with 250. I have seen some jobs about 6 months later and they seem to hold up well. With Superior I at least have seen jobs that are 2+ years old and holding up extremely well. Hopefully the SW is the same after more time.
Humidity gets low here, especially in the winter…spraying plastic bumpers can be bad.
I have used isopropyl, and it is good but doesn’t seem to completely kill the static. Just remember to dilute it with distilled water (50-70% Iso max). I’ve used glass cleaner to clean panels like a final wipe solvent with waterborne (and it is great) but I’ve never thought to try it as an anti static wipe.
I recently heard that U-Pol makes a great anti static cleaner. Has anyone here tried it at all?
I’m not sure what your problem is with me Kansaskid, but I certainly wasn’t trying to contradict what you wrote. I posted what is working for me. What works best for someone spraying one product may not be the best for someone else with another product.
I have previously used a 2000 RP with a 1.4 to spray a different brand of sealer and it worked well. What I do suggest is to consult the tech sheets for the recommended tip size as a starting point. If I sprayed my SW sealer with a 1.4, I would be asking for trouble (even on a complete). .