Ben Hart
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[quote=”thekansaskid” post=30369]I would go bigger. 1.4 . I use a nr2000 1.4. The teknas dont put out enough material. If ur panel painting they are prob fine. But if u want a gun thats good for everything completes ect buy a 1.4. Sata bf100 1, 4 is nice as well. When it comes to a six foot wide chevy hoo d u will be glad u have a 1, 4![/quote]
For some products indeed, but you need to match the tip size to the product.
I spray SW P27 sealer, with a Tekna (7e7 air cap, 1.3tip). Works very well. There are a good number of Tekna users on this site. For the performance and price, they are hard to beat.
The Lesonal is a great product… If you have that available I would use it. Ding also had a good suggestion. If it is something worth while, I highly recommend spending the money on decent paint.
Blues can be poor hiding colours and may need many coats, this tends to be even worse with cheaper paints. Sometimes needing the extra coats (more materials) can negate the cost savings and be a bigger pain in the rear.
Although the Nason and Omni clears aren’t horrible, I would feel more confident with the Lesonal on it, if it were mine. Plus, I guarantee the Lesonal with match much better than the Nason or Omni.
[quote=”MoCoke” post=30342]looks very good ben. i see your booth pulls the plastic sheeting away, do u end up with overspray?[/quote]
The booth doesn’t pull the plastic away while spraying, that is from the heat after the bake cycle.
Thanks!
The booth is a heated pressurized Spray-Tech, cross flow (reverse flow). It is actually only about a year old. The water dries fairly quick. There is a flash function I use between coats and before clear. I don’t use blowers, don’t seem to need them. Only quirks are having the exhaust at the door end, and the airflow isn’t as good down the centre of the booth due to the intake and exhaust being in the corners rather than having the exhaust over an entire wall. It is a fairly nice booth and works well.
I see you haven’t received much feed back. I haven’t used omni or Nason in a while. But in my opinion they are comparable. If you are doing a complete in a solid colour I highly recommend using the acrylic urethane single stage. The base coats in both systems are not as easy to use, but I personally like the Nason base coat better than Omni. I have sprayed very nice looking metallic colours in the Nason Acrylic Urethane, but if you have never sprayed single stage metallic, then I do not recommend it. What colour are you looking to paint?
The 2k urethane primers in both systems are very nice for an economy product. I’ve never used their sealers, but I remember Nasons sealer being a 1k acrylic ( which I would personally avoid).
I’ve never used Keystone clears…I do recommend using the clear for the base coat you go with. Both the Omni and Nason lines have easy to use clears that can give a good appearance. I did like the Nason 496/497 clears.
Looks good Nex. The Lesonal is a nice product.
The scratch should be feathered back as much as necessary, usually to bare metal. Stone chips are treated the same way ( or stripped if it is a bigger area). Often stone chips through the paint are to the metal, even if they don’t appear that way. These often have a very small amount of corrosion that will spread over time, so filling the chip with putty us no more than a short term cosmetic band aid.
With that said, I do putty stone chips frequently. It is not correct, but I do it on areas we are not being paid for. Such as a blend panel ( within the area I will be covering with base). As a free cosmetic repair it does look better than painting over the chips and really isn’t worse either. If a customer were paying for stone chip repairs, I would strip the area properly to ensure there is no corrosion.
Have you phoned the DuPont help line or talked to your rep? There may be field formulas to try out. When I used DuPont they were pretty helpful with issues like that.
I haven’t had the misfortune of painting one of those ugly ass cars 🙂
I remember the paint rep mentioning problems with Fiats, though. He was saying there was a lot of inconsistency at the factory so trying to match the colours has been a big challenge.
Have you noticed that with the ones you are doing? Are different cars of the same colour looking different from each other? Or maybe even panels on the same car be be more transparent in some areas?
My world now…Sherwin Williams:
AWX Performance Plus
ATX
Ultra 7000
Dimension
Planet Color
Finish 1
GenesisI’m using Sherwin Williams AWX performance plus now. I use the flash setting on the booth between coats And before clear. Air flow is pretty good. The flash setting does increase booth temp. We’ve got everything set up as per the tech rep, and have made minor adjustments as needed.
I use water, and most of the time I don’t use blowers. Typically I let 3 minutes flash between coats…a little longer for some jobs depending on how I have things set up in the booth which affects the air movement. But nothing takes more than 5 minutes. I can honestly say, that in my opinion, water is faster than solvent most if not all of the time.
Not pushing products, but Sherwin Williams claims you can go from prime to shine in 40 minutes…it some instances that is definitely true.
You have to be careful with the camera…sometimes mixing a completely different colour that comes up close and looks good can cause metamerism. Not cool when you take it outside later.
Centari to has a long shelf life, but if it has started to gel, I definitely wouldn’t bother with it. Why were you looking to use it rather than mixing fresh paint?
I remember that the sales rep would come in and change the computer…I watched once and it seemed pretty easy. You can add/ remove the toners you need as you use up the old ones and update to the newer ones. Unfortunately I don’t recall how. If you phone your Akzo rep they should be able to explain over the phone.