Ben Hart
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[quote=”gtome” post=30002]So what would I do if that were the case? Simply not use it?[/quote]
In that case, if you need to use it, spray the wet bed past where the end of your blend will be, but not all the way to the end if your blend panel. You will need to try to remember very carefully wher you ended it, especially towards your last coat. If you have multiple clear coats in your shop, you may want to choose the clearest (least yellow) one just to be safe.
There are some great points that have been made. The only thing I want to add is to watch when you apply the wet bed over your entire blend panel. It is a great idea, but with some products it may cause a little difference between the far end of your blend panel and the adjacent unpainted panel. Generally only noticeable on white and silvers. And if your clear is a little yellow it can really make it bad.
[quote=”gbprideoc” post=29913]K. I have a 07 Chevy express cargo van that I use for my mobile bumper refinish business. I have the window cut-outs wrapped with vinyl. The vinyl is very easily pulling the paint off my van. I had a few spots chipping off the roof when I bought the van but doesn’t all of them?
Anyway. I want to fix this and repaint the van. I don’t want this to happen again, so I’m not following gm’s protocol on which sealer to use. Do I have to get the van stripped? If so, fuck that! Help a dude out please.[/quote]
You can feather back and prime the areas and it might last you a while, but eventually it will all peel. Sorry to say it, but to do it properly it will need to be stripped.
[quote=”pane2k” post=29872]Well, the chassis rails are actually welded in as extensions, they have a split with like 8 spot welds in the perfect spot for me. Plus, the rails have a self centering cone on them that slide in to the subframe – makes changing the rail very simple, so basically I’m changing the both chassis rails. I also took the outer wheel house from the black clip and am putting it on my car – left side only, my right is perfect.
Once the two rails and left outer wheel house are all welded up and refinished (probably today), I’m going to slide the complete outer skins on to the car one shot. Two quarter panels, left side rocker outer cover, floor, rear body, and part of the upper deck that goes under the rear windshield.[/quote]
Sounds great. I’d like to see pics of that back end going on all together.
Did I mention that you are making it look way too easy 🙂Looks good, I like the green. I’m sure it will look great when finished.
Looks good so far. Are you splicing the back end in the way it is sitting behind the car…then Welding on the skins?
I look forward to more pics
Shipping might have been cheaper if they chiseled out the filler first…
Buying parts unseen like that is rarely good, but it looks like it is in better hands now
I used a Tekna with the 7E7 air cap and 1.4 tip. Worked very well for me.
[quote=”ryan999″ post=29757][img]http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq250/ryanbrown999/TS-PDSG_orange-peel_640_zpsab9f4c13.jpg[/img]
Here is some of the slick work I put out! I think I used PPG on this one :blink:[/quote]
But that’s not an off the gun finish… You must have polished that beauty
[quote=”Andy T” post=29630][quote=”Jayson M” post=29625]I get a kick out of guys saying it will put the primer on like glass,really?? who cares you are going to sand it anyway :wak :rofl :rofl
[/quote]I don’t know about you, but I find a bit of texture on a high build primer makes it easier to sand anyway. Knocking the hard top surface off is much easier than if it’s totally flat.[/quote]
Not only that, but if you are putting your primer on flat like clear, you are probably hosing it on too wet… And unless you increase your flash time a lot, then you will likely trap solvents. Primer doesn’t cure very well (nor sand well) like that.
Your car needs to go to a frame shop. The front end needs to be measured and possibly pulled straight. The rad support is technically structural and must be welded in (after the body is straightened). This should be done by someone qualified! Sorry to say it, but this is a safety issue
Sounds like 2 hours well spent for the techs. Thanks for sharing the tips
It is a good base cost, and as ding said you NEED to activate it. If you don’t activate the base then you will need to start using the regular chroma base binder (compatible with all your toners). It has the option to be hardened or not. I would also use the appropriate clears,like the 72200 and 72500 premiere clears.
I’ve used both systems. You can’t go wrong either way. Personally, I liked the primers and clear better in Sikkens. The colour matches are probably a little better with Sikkens, and I liked the metallic toners better as well.
PPG’s plastic toner containers seemed better to me, the sealer lays nice and flat and is fast. I liked the black toner better as well.
I would consider pricing and the service you will get from the suppliers
I just did an almost identical job on an equinox. Used drivers door, used b-pillar/rocker and repaired the back door. It needed a new back door, but that would have pushed it over. Nice easy b pillar to splice in. Mine was the same colour too.