Ben Hart
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Welcome! Looks like you run a nice website. I do trail riding in the Summer here(Alberta Canada), but would love to see your country on a bike, especially at this time of year.
I look forward to the pics!
I was using the wipes with Sikkens a as well. No issues that I was aware of. I used one wipe quite a bit before disposing of it. The container lasts a very long time. Just keep them sealed well.
Ryan, the Sikkens tech rep told me at one point that the aerosol primer would be ok for small areas…I know what you are saying, I’m just passing on what I was told…PPG DuPont and SW reps have all said the same. Again…not something I recommend, just things that have been said…
Everything I’ve been told makes me agree, 2k is the way to go.
But, in all fairness are all 1k etches the same? I would think that some may be a little better (less bad) than others. Plus, I think there are 2 types of aerosol etch primers. I’ve seen the common pigmented type that has a small amount of mil build (the stuff we’ve all used/abused at some point). Then ther is the aerosols with the etch that is transparent yellow and much more potent, with almost no solid content. I would think that this is much more like a true etch primer (but still inferior). Maybe I’m wrong, but I would think the 2 different products should not quite be grouped together.
I do not know of any paint company that would warranty them either, but every paint rep I’ve met I unofficially said that using it on very small burn throughs, within reason, is perfectly acceptable…even under waterborne.
As a tech I have all my tools and would never expect a shop to supply me with any. I also expect the shop to be properly equipped. I think ther can be a grey area of what’s shop equipment and what should be personal tools (more so for body than paint).
A painter should have basic hand tools, paint guns, fresh air hood (and/or respirator), da sander, and sanding blocks. Consumables should be supplied by the shop: paint suit, gloves, filters for mask/hood, gun lube etc
One of the nicest/easiest to use is the fusor 800ez. It is a 1 part urethane adhesive/seam sealer that comes in a caulking tube. It is slow enough to do large areas and easy to build thick (and doesn’t seem to shrink). Easy to smooth out with a little water.
Any particular seams (door skin ,roof rails etc)? I think product selection is a huge factor. I have about 5 different seam sealers at work for different finishes and drying time. I just use the normal tips, acid brushes, masking tape, water, thinner and/or my finger for tooling it.
Looks much better than stock. Great job nex!
Looks like another great job. Thanks for sharing the pics!
Some paint systems have a vinyl resin that can be mixed with the base toners. Chroma base had this as does PPG. I believe in both they have you clean and lightly abbrade the surface, apply adhesion promoter then the mixed vinyl paint. As far as I recall no primer or sealer is needed. I have used it in DuPont and it seemed durable after drying
Glad to hear it has been a relatively positive experience so far. The pic of the computer software looks like it has been updated since I used DuPont. But I do agree, the system did seem nu-necessarily complex/time consuming. We had pretty good luck with the camera (provided it was used properly and within reason).
Too bad about the reps, the DuPont reps here were extremely professional and helpful.
Thanks for sharing, and keep us posted as you go Jimmo!
I’ve never used the stuff before…There is a local supplier here. There were several shops using it about 5 years ago, but I don’t think very many use it anymore. I heard mixed reviews, some products are awesome, and others are awful. Colour matching was acceptable, but not great.
You should check the tech sheet for the base you are using. Some waterborne basecoats do not two tone well and you may be better off basing and clearing the first colour bofore moving to the 2nd…others two tone really well and just need some extended flash time.
Another key is using the right tape for the edge…again, some of the adhesive on some tapes do not react well to waterborne tape, and the base can creep under the edge. 3M has some good fine line tapes specifically for waterborne paint.
As far as what colour gets painted first depends. Some people prefer to paint the lower colour, then the upper or vise versa others may base that decision on the colours. Are you referring to spraying the blue/white colour scheme from your other post? If so, I would probably spray the white first, then mask off the top of the car and spray the blue. Both colours are going to be transparent, so no matter what, you will be applying several coats. I am sure others may have a different opinion than me, though
You do not have to spray the entire car the first colour…however, since both colours are transparent and the car is so small, it may not be a bad idea in this case. That way the 2nd colour has a consistently coloured ground coat and you will have a nice smooth uniform surface to paint over.
Intercoat clear, sounds like clear base coat. There are several names for this and it is basically used when blending. I think it was mentioned to you for a two tone in case you don;t spray the entire car with the fist colour. THe idea is to spray the fisrt colour past the point where you will be dividing the colours, then continue on with the clear base to ensure there is no dry spray (dry edge) from the first colour which may show through. And the dry edge can lead to poor adhesion in some cases. Does that make sense? This is something I have never done with a 2-tone, FYI
Lastly, when I two tone, with my products, I have the entire vehicle ready to go, spray the 1st colour past where the separation will be…let it flash as long as necessary (miniumum 1/2 hour with good heat and ample air flow, usually ,longer). After it is dry enough, I will gently tack the entire surface. Figure out where the line will be and mask just a hair above it/below it (depending on whether I am doing the upper or lower colour first) ensuring the masking is sealed well. Then I do the fine line last (if posible). Spay the 2nd colour as normal. Then remove the fine line tape while the base is still somewhat wet. Let it flash, the remove the remaining making. Give it a good visual inspection, tack it and clear it.
Nice work Ding. Looks like its in pretty good shape too
Looks like the colour blended out just fine.
BTW, that colour matched pretty good in Sikkens… :whistle:
[quote=”Jayson M” post=28986]Its called “jetstream” turn the fan in on your gun and climb up a ladder and giver.That is the only way to paint the middle of bunks, sleepers,semis etc.[/quote]
That’s how we did the heavy trucks and other awkward stuff…and dangling off a ladder like a monkey at the same time helps too