Ben Hart
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If the dust a minor you may be able to get away with a little light sanding. Using your finger tip with a piece of 2000 should knock out the nib in a few quick swipes. If you have a big area, just run the 2000 over it with the palm of your hand. It will quickly knock out the small stuff and highlight the larger ones you may need to spend a little more time on. If it is relatively clean, that should take very little time.
Or just live with it :whistle:
If I had panels come out really orange peely, I would rather sand a reclear than spend all that time polishing.
[quote=”ejb” post=28920]Okay, I will give just a little background. I was in the USAF during Vietnam and was in corrosion control which means I painted things. I painted jets, jeeps and heavy equipment. I painted hundreds of things during my 6 years in the service. I say this just to let you know that I know what orange peel is and what fish eye is. This is orange peel.
I called SPI today and they told me I had the gun PSI too low. This means I did not lay down as much clear as I thought I did. So what I am going to do is scuff it up and put two more coat of clear on it. One of those being a flow coat.
In the USAF we did not worry about orange peel or color sanding, we just did camouflaged and get it ready to fly. Not a lot of block sanding.
So now my question is what grit sandpaper should I use to scuff the surface before re-coating.
Thanks for your feed back.
EB[/quote]If re-clearing, I use 800 on a DA with an interface pad and a grey scotch brite pad for edges and body lines.
Hopefully you manage to make things work better or find something better suited.
What clear are you using?
[quote=”pane2k” post=28876][quote=”Jayson M” post=28875][quote=”chumpi” post=28873]Nice work… but why the over-spray on the intake manifold on the Sting Ray? :wak[/quote]
If you are doing a 100 point concours resto on a big block vette and you want to go to the bloomington gold show you have to reproduce what the factory did right down to factory overspray.[/quote]Jayson is right. As stupid as it is, when that car is judged, if you do not have that overspray on the manifold you lose points.
Thanks for all the kind words and compliments!![/quote]
I was wondering about that as well. :teach
We’ve all seen some interesting things from the factory, but that one is new to me
Wow…that was ummm… definitely you lild :p
Welcome to the site!
Welcome to the site. How many techs are in your shop?
[quote=”ding” post=28802]Stay away from the chinese booths. I dont think they actually have the proper ETL listings. it’ll be a nightmare getting one up to code to pass inspection. I have a Garmat 3000 27′ long. dual skin with 1.5mil BTU air makeup. Mine is also on a raised basement instead of a dug pit. Installed with dry chem fire suppression was just over 55k. they wanted around 4-5 more more the accudraft. things are tight nowadays and you can likely work them some and get a real good deal. The FutureCure is manufactured about 45 minutes away from me. decent quality but still not up to par with garmat/gfs/accuspray and not any cheaper in price either[/quote]
I know of a chinese booth that was purchased In Calgary a little while ago. It had the ETL sticker and paper work with it. Upon inspection it was determined that these were forgeries and the booth was not actually certified. The booth wound up being shipped back to the supplier after nearly a year of endless hassle between the shop, booth supplier and city inspectors.
I agree with Ding, don’t waste your time with that garbage. Stick with the American or European booths
I’ve used down draft, cross flow and semi down draft (similar to the one in your link)
I agree with Andy, a true down draft is by far the best…
The cross draft can work very well, you just need to get use to working in a certain direction.
The semi-downdraft I used, I did not like. The intake was in the ceiling near the doors, and the exhaust was the entire back wall. Air flow near the door was very poor, especially if you had a car in there. The part of the both that was central towards the front of the booth (where about the hood of a car would be with a car in the booth) was the dirtiest part of the booth. Just spraying parts, the booth was ok, but once you had a car in there it just screwed the air flow up and made a lot of uneven areas.
One thing to keep in mind, no matter the setup of the booth every booth has its quirks as to where the uneven spots are, even down drafts. It just tends to be much less of a significant difference in down drafts, especially as you load the booth up.
YOur clear may just not be suited for that speed. When I used PPGs envirobase, the ehp clears were relatively dry after bake/cool down but would finger print easy. There, we let the clear dry over night before handling/polishing. A little accelerator did help, but wasn’t a real solution.
As for the die back (lack of gloss later on), you may need to increase flash times with the base and in between coats of clear. Have you ever run a mil-gauge to see how thick your clear is being applied?
I imagine the PPG clear is very similar to the Nexa clear you are using.
Good luck. Make sure to test the gun out before spraying the car…just in case.
I’ve never seen fish eyes that bad..
Always wash the car first, with warm soapy water when it comes in for repairs (as lild said, some of the degreasing dish detergents can be best). Its also a good idea to wipe it with wax and grease remover before starting any repairs. IF you are concerend about fish eyes, change your wipes frequently and wipe it a couple times. Then do your repairs, prep etc. Once it is ready to paint, clean it with water based cleaners (personally, I have found the aersol glass cleaner to be the best general purpose) then clean with a final wash solvent (or wax and grease remover). Again, being sure yo use fresh lint free paper towels and change them frequently.
This works most of the time. You can buy fish eye eliminaotr for most paints (to go into the clear or SS top coat). This can stop or reduce the amount of problems you have, but should only be used as a last resort.
Try tightening the packing nut (if its adjustable). My guess is it is leaking from there
I was thinking of visiting the old shop and looking at the colormap if I need to. I think the plum crazy will be a little too light. I like the looks of WA9802, Jayson, it is nice and dark, but may be a little too red. I know I sprayed a few purples in Sikkens, I should dig out my old spray out cards. I did an ’83 Trans Am a while back, but it wasn’t a factory colour…
It will be going on something like this:
[img]http://www.deucesnorthwest.com/_images/_projects/perry/01.jpg[/img]Do you guys think darker and bluer than the Plum crazy is the right way to go for that body?