Ben Hart
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lild does DP all the time, and he likes it 👿
Although not a solution, if you can use a sealer that is similar in colour (or value shade if you have black and white) it can make it almost unnoticeable in many instances
[quote=”xtremekustomz” post=28651]I’ve got a 3000rp with a 1.3 and have never sprayed a high solids clear with it. Has anyone sprayed the RM DC5335, Spies 8035 or Dupont 72500S with this setup?[/quote]
Yep, 72500. With a 1.3 it is pretty happy.
Yes, the 4000 does spray thicker clears & HS clear well
The Norton foam tape is fine. Prep a little deeper into the jamb and move the foam in a little more (give it a little more room to fade out).
Once the paint is cooled down after baking (or air dried long enough) I will unmask the vehicle right away. If there is a little bit of a lip in the jamb, I can usually knock it down with my finger nail and/or a tiny bit of thinner on a rag (obviously being very careful). Also, rubbing a little rubbing compound in there once the clear is set up enough can sometimes help too.
I also avoid sealing if possible, the jambs always come out nicer that way
Sounds like a good plan.
If something is that old and junky, I usually don’t sweat it too much
what brand of paint do you use? What are you using for a gun?
Not sure I see the question here…
Anything primed will need to be sanded and scuffed. Any of the original primer from the 1/4 should be primed and/or sealed. And of course, all bare metal needs proper treatment…
With base coat, you would typically do 2-3 coats with a silver, 1st coat, 2nd coat and with some paints the 3rd as an orientation coat (orientation coat is always last). Then 2 coats of clear. All as per the tech sheet for the paint you are using
Also, make sure to prep beyond the jamb (onto the fact of the 1/4 and door) to ensure any paint up to and over the edge will get decent adhesion there as well
I’d say its one of 3 things…
-fender has been painted several different times
-fender was done once, but shop f***** up and redid it before it was sent to the customer
-factory f*** up. Sometimes they will have a few layers from the factory when there is an issue (such as colour mismatch) haven’t seen it on a Korean car before, though.Often brand new cars get damaged in transit from the factory to the dealership. Minor repairs are made and in most cases, the person who buys the car may never know.
Welcome to the site. I’m from Alberta, Canada (there are many Canadian and Americans on the site, as well as a handful from the UK. And then there is Dag who is from the Congo). I look forward to seeing pictures of your work and seeing how you do things in Russia.
What basecoat are you using? Is the sealer the appropriate sealer for that base?
Some of the economy base coats do not 2-tone well and the first colour may need to be cleared before doing the 2nd.
One trick with the masking tape, is to run your finger across it first (to dull it a bit) before applying it to the fresh (sensitive base). There are a few fine line tapes to choose from. The Blue tape from 3m works well with most solvent base and the purple works well with most water base. As mentioned, the yellow 3M masking tape has a pretty forgiving adhasive (as does the geen 3M tape) but they do not leave as nice an edge as the fine line.
Looks like good work!
I hope your bodyman didn’t mind pulling all the junky trim off of it…
Having worked at GM, this was something we saw a lot in the factory paint. If it was bad enough you could adjust your air pressure, speed etc and make your paint mottle as well. Just pretend you are a first year apprentice trying to spray base really nice…the mottleyness will come automatically 🙂
sell them on a complete 🙂
Is the base colour faded too then, not just the clear? Sounds like polishing the adjacent panels won’t help in this case…
I’ve been using the 4000 RP for about a year. I have a 1.4 tip in it and like it. It is a little slow, but the speed suits me just fine. For me, the 3000 is like a garden hose.