Ben Hart
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The most important thing in metal work is to return the metal to its original state (strength). Otherwise it can be under tension or pressure and do some crazy things down the road. And if the part is structural, that is a major safety concern.
With proper metal work you can get the metal back to its intended state and have the shape relatively close to fill (preferably needing 1/8″ of filler or less over the majority of the repair).
[quote=”ryan999″ post=28484]Nason can be some pretty thin stuff. if you go too small mil thickness becomes a concern.
Is the 1.3 too fast?[/quote]
Exactly. Nason clear is very thin.
Specifically what products are you using? What do you not like about your 1.3?
Same way I do it. When you bring the car in and pre wash it, make sure to hose out the wheel wells good (running your hand in there helps). Before masking I make sure it is dry (blow it well) and then wipe it with a rag (often using gun wash and/or water based cleaners depending on the contamination).
If I can back mask (like in Jaysons’s picture), that is my preference.Otherwise I will just tape up to the plastic liner making sure the tape extends around the lip of the liner so there is no paint edge.
Depending on the size of the openining and wheel you may need to get a little creative with the masking. On trucks, I may run some 36″ paper over the wheel first, then 18″ around the wheel opening on the fender. On some smaller vehicles a single piece of 36″ can work by masking around the lip and taping up the excess or trimming the paper to the opening…
ryan gave a really good review, reminded me of some things I had forgotten.
The seedieness is something I have seen. That black toner was bad for it, and if I recall, the black toners (05 and 08?) were rather brown looking in the sun (not a true jet black)
De-nibbing the base seemed fine, fully sanding it was not much of an option. I never had an issues with die back (using the 72200 and 72500 clear and occasionally the snap dry). But, out weather is relatively dry and the booth I was using moved a lot of air.
One thing that wasn’t mentioned is cratering. It seemed like every once in a while you would base and clear the job and it would look fine. After baking you would get some small cratering. Maybe too much base (water)?
Ryan’s comment on the flex additive is interesting. I recall that the 72200 and 72500 did not require the flex additive (optional) so they were presumably pre-flexed to some extent. May be a good question to ask about the low VOC clears…
I was talking to one of the Fix franchise owners from Calgary recently. He was telling me that several of the owners here are pushing against fix in regards to having to use DuPont. He suggested that they are not required (yet) to switch to DuPont and with some more negotiation may be successful at choosing their product at their discretion.
Back on topic…
I used Cromax about 3 years ago, just as they were transitioning into the low VOC primer/clears. I know some of the products they had issues with were changed. My understanding is that the primers and clears are pretty decent now. As for the base, I never had anywhere near the issues that others have had. Yes, it is different and finicky. Some things can be very difficult (tri-stage blends). Colour matching isn’t the best, but if you are blending your jobs, working with the variants you can be successful. We had 2 tech reps out here and the sales rep (ex-painter) and other jobber staff were phenomenal for supporting their shops with the product.
It would be nice if you could test some out before your training and get your own opinion/questions to discuss in the course.
Good Luck 🙂
Nice looking work! 🙂 Was that black sealer or did you just spray some black base as a ground coat?
[quote=”Danylukf7″ post=28380]Thanks bill, tbh I didnt try google around just came to you guys. To update i decided not too use it, im gonna get a good primer surfacer this week and prime on the weekend.[/quote]
Good Choice. Better safe than sorry 😉
I’ve used Devilbiss cross draft and down draft booths. They seem to be good reliable units. Not too familiar with the curing ovens, but I have heard some horror stories from uneven heat, melted parts etc…I am sure there are some guys on here that have a lot of experience with them
Previously I have used the Nason 496 &497 clears. They seem pretty decent and very inexpensive, and they have given good lasting results. Lesonal Pro Air is awesome, but more of a mid-range product.
[quote=”ding” post=28323]It is a nice color, just too much of it. needs an accent color. maybe even just keeping the chrome trim would have broken it up some[/quote]
I agree, nice but too much.
Looks like some good quality work there! 😉
I found (with the exception of some tri stage colours) that the ColorScala Pro deck was very accurate. Remember that metallic colours in the deck have the control coat…that makes a big difference. You should do a spray out card with every job you do, and for metallics, do your control coat on half. You will see a huge difference…
It is possible that the lights are in really poor condition and the clear coat just highlighted the cracks in the plastic
Wow, I love that truck. Excellent looking work! Did you guys paint the lettering on it as well, not many people that can do that sort of stuff.
[quote=”ukpainter” post=28202]Thank you for taking time to reply to my post, it makes heartening reading. There’s plenty of bodyshops in Regina and i intend to knock on doors this weekend. I’ll keep you posted. I’ll be back to ask advice.
As a matter of interest, how much different is applying waterbased compared to 2pack? I presume its more or less the same technique, just different flash off times etc?[/quote]Like solvent paint, every brand is a little different. Honestly, if you know how to paint and follow some basic rules for waterbourne, you won’t have any issues. I think there was a lot more hype about it than needed. One of the biggest things is you can’t cheat/cut corners as some people did with solvent. Read the tech sheets, follow flash times meticulously to ensure proper dehydration, keep everything clean, ensure you don’t have any residue from wet prepping (or better yet, prep everything dry) and you will be set.
After spraying a few jobs and understanding the differences (and similarities) you will probably like using it.
Welcome to the site. My understanding is that the autobody trade in Saskatchewan is doing well. You should get a Certificate of Qualification to work as a Journeyman in Canada, and info can be found at: http://www.saskapprenticeship.ca/