Ben Hart
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Nice job Ding! Now what’s next for you?
[quote=”MoCoke” post=28142]for the guys out there who use epoxy as a sealer; do u notice it shrink more than urethane sealer after time? one of the main reasons i dont use it as a sealer anymore is shrinkage.[/quote]
I never noticed issues with die back or shrinkage. Only thing was the flash time…15 minutes for 1 coat, 30 for 2 coats. In cooler conditions, much longer. I think the DuPont epoxy I referred to may be slightly different than some of the older epoxies (no induction time needed).
[quote=”billgaino” post=28140]Thanks ScottB, I never tried it base clear…only enamel and single stage urethane. In future I’ll be using a lot more 2k sealer. You know a lot of jobs are price conscience. Under the hood of my car…I don’t have to worry about rock chips. A customer has a peeling white hood on his work van. I could strip it, lay the etch and paint it back for $300 and MAKE money. BEN, Nobody in my area carries the Doupont 2500 series…can you believe it?[/quote]
To answer your earlier question, yes, this epoxy lays down very flat. The epoxy is not VOC compliant (here is Canada) so we can no longer get it up here. Since you are using the products you have mentioned earlier, I assume your area has no VOC restrictions. I find it odd that your DuPont supplier(s) cannot get you this sealer. When it was available up here, it was very popular.
[quote=”ryan999″ post=28116][quote=”billgaino” post=28057] I found out the hard way if you paint over the Nason etch primer too soon it stains the topcoats with bleed through :x[/quote]
This doesn’t really have anything to do with flash time. It will bleed through no matter how long you wait. Etch is a 1K product and is always reversable. The solvents in basecoat can soften it. You risk staining or a delam issue.
The goal of sealer is not to paint over bad paint. If it has crows feet, no amount of sealer or primer will fix it. You don’t build a house on top of quicksand, your paintjob is only as good as what is under it.[/quote]
Exactly. Sealer is designed to prevent problems from occurring, not fix/hide existing issues.
A good 2k Sealer can:
-ensure adequate adhesion
-prevent stone chips
-allow easier coverage of topcoat colours
-prevent staining/bleed through
-bridge small burn through to bare metal (or DTM it some products)
-fill minor sand scratches/surface imperfections (such as 400 grit scratches etc)
-assist (your etch/epoxy) in corrosion protection
-ensure proper mil build on new parts
-prevent reaction between substrate and topcoat
among other things…thats is a urethane sealer, Bill. The tech sheet there does recommend etching metal before applying.
The nice thing with the DuPont epoxy I mentioned, is that you can replace two products with it…your etch and your sealer. Then it is just one step as well.
A good product for Bill would be the DuPont 2500 series epoxy primer sealer. It goes over just about anything from fiberglass to bare metal, base can be applied wet on wet after 20 minutes (with 1 coat of sealer). It can be denibbed (although not quite as nicely as urethane), lays down very smooth, it can be mixed in different value shades etc…
It may not be the cheapest product out there, but it offers excellent protection and goes a long way.
[url=http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/visitor/common/pdfs/b/product/dr/ChromaSystem/H-19356_25X0S.pdf]here is the tech sheet[/url]
I haven’t sprayed the roofs off before. I have heard of people doing it though. I either paint it like normal with the rest of the car, or once in a while I will bag the car off and paint the roof first.
Most solvent toners last a very long time. I’ve used some really old toners without much issue. I think that as long as it has been sealed well, it should last many many years
I would obviously prefer a down draft as well…
Overall I am happy with it, I don’t know what it cost, but I assume it would be a little cheaper than a GFS or Garmat booth.
[quote=”rudy49″ post=28024]Hey Ben, how do you like the Spray Tech booth?[/quote]
I’ve never used one before, but it is a nice booth. The lighting is good, the doors seem durable and seal well, the digital control panel is nice and very easy to use. It has really good airflow and the heat is fairly quick (even in the colder weather).
Only quirky thing is it is a reverse cross draft (exhaust filters at the door side). And with the way the filters are located, there is a ton of airflow across the sides of the booth, but not as much across the centre. Painting horizontal panels (hoods/roofs) take longer to flash off because of this.
Rage gold is a good filler and won’t shrink. Blocking with 80, then running over with 220 on a DA is not going to get you the straightest panel.
I have used a lot of the Nason 421 2k primer. It is actually a pretty good product, and does not shrink. I have seen my work with it after several years, and it hold up just fine. Only really important things with it, is to allow adequate flash time between coats (or it won’t dry properly) and to use a good etch over all your bare metal first.
Sounds like sticking with Dupont/Spies is easier for you.
Personally, I would go with the 72500 clear. It is meant more for a downdraft/bake environment, but it will work in your situation with the faster hardener (I think it is the 12303S). This clear has a higher solids content and a really good, durable finish. I would just spray 2 nice coats and be done. No need to sand/reclear or polish. But, that is just my preference.
What are you using for a base coat?
According to the SATA website it is :huh:
[quote=”Jayson M” post=27993]Don’t forget about the first gen rp,it works great with good speed also ;)[/quote]
That is true. I was referring to guns you can still buy new, though. 😛