Ben Hart
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[quote=”nick1″ post=27985]Sounds like lots of roof replacements. Must have been some nasty hail. You guys don’t get forced into having PDR done on your hail jobs?[/quote]
When we get hail out here it is generally pretty bad, lots of damage to buildings and vehicles. A big hail storm usually backs bodyshops up for months. PDR guys come up here from all over the country and even several from the U.S.
Lots of cars do get PDR, and lots of cars get a mix of both. A lot of the hail is too bad for PDR. A roof on a F-250 we have in has over 500 dents on it, the ones in my pictures had hail in size from golf ball and up. Lots of smashed windshields/backglass.
The hail storm was in early august and actually only covered a small area (mostly NW calgary and a little into NE calgary). There are some pics of the aftermath [url=http://www.calgarysun.com/2012/08/13/calgary-hail-storm-leaves-damaging-trail-of-destruction]here[/url]
Typically jobs get PDR where possible, then often the hoods are replaced (then blend fenders). Really depends on the direction the hail hit the car and the severity. Lots of replacement panels, and sometimes repairs (like the panels in my pics). Generally we only repair panels that are severe, but too expensive to replace. Most involve stripping the panel, pulling the dents out then skimming the entire panel.
How long are you baking for?
Have you tried baking without flahsing? Your clear might be skinning over
I use my 4000 strictly for clear. It is slower than the 3000, but that suits my spraying style better.
I use my teknas for sealer and base. I have tried them for clear, and they are nice, and lay down a great finish, but for clear, the tekna is slow.
If speed is your primary concern, the 3000RP is the best modern gun, in my opinion.
I agree, the 3000 is the faster of the 2.
I bought my non digital 4000 for $430 locally earlier this year. I think retail was about double that.
Sounds like that PF131- non-sanding would be the right product for you.
What paint system are you using? There will definately be some sort of sealer avaliable
[quote=”ajpepe72″ post=27944]Will go with the above advise, cheers all.
Never used a sealer before apart from barcoat, Is it a U.S thing or will my paint factor know what I need ?[/quote]Sealer is used everywhere…I think over there, some of you guys call it wet on wet primer or something to that effect.
If your supplier doesn’t know what sealer is, find a new supplier 😛
We do have the fiestas over here as well.
What paint are you using?
You could try applying less ground coat (not full coverage) and let the sealer colour bleed through (likely what the factory did, by being cheap).
Are there any variants for the colour you could work with? How well did your ground coat match to the factory?
Obviously I’m no engineer…but is that tiny rivet going to do much that the panel bond isn’t?
Air hammer and a dolley might work (you may want a second person to help you, though).
I don’t imagine they mentioned using panel bonding adhesive instead?
Sorry to hear this as well, but it sounds like you have things under control. Sometimes change can bring very good things.
Yeah, I posted a while ago when I heard it was being discontinued.
The primer PO is pretty easy to use. Simple straight forward adhesion promoter. Only things to make sure of, is to NOT apply too much, and allow adequate flash time before sealing.
Looks great ding!
If the fiberglass was bubbling, then it probably got water into it somehow (improper repair, repair got wet before priming, or damage allowed water in after the repair).
If the paint was bubbling, then that would be user error, most likely. Or a low quality paint that was submerged in water, perhaps. If the boat will be moored in the water all the time, it should have proper marine paint or gel coat, particularly below the water line.
What was bubbling? The fiberglass, or the primer/paint? Could be several possibilities. Fiberglass wicks up water and should never get wet. The epoxy primer is a real must to seal it properly.