Ben Hart
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I’ve found that if you select your products carefully, you can be pretty successful using lubricants and such in the bodyshop.
Obviously, you will want to separate the products from the painting area as much as possible, and keep everything clean.
If the bumper is coated in gel-coat, and you don’t burn through the gel-coat, you can do as mentioned.
I assume you are using standard fiberglass resin. By the time the repair is complete (ground, maybe filled/blocked) you can apply your primer. Your best bet is to apply a coat of Epoxy, then some urethane primer-surfacer. Paint anything above the water line like anything else.
Day 2 went well. Started with a Mazda CX7 to finish de-trimming, then prep and paint (door skin, blend fender/back door). Tri-stage white. Did a let down and wound up tinting the ground coat a bit and used a mid from a different variant. Blended out really well. Used a new clear, the 755 I believe. Not too bad of a clear. I think I could get use to using it everyday. Later in the day I had some small stuff to keep me occupied.
I’m not hating the Sherwin yet… 🙂
Thanks everyone. The new shop doesn’t seem to be run at all like Boyd/Carstar etc. Seems like a typical private shop, other than the sign on the front.
I found the HPC21 to be very thin. I did read the tech sheet and applied it with a 1.4 tip, and hosed it on pretty wet. I am confident I got it on as thick as it can/should be. I’ve never been a big fan of ultra fast products, but I will certainly play with everything for now, until I figure out what I like. I will probably just use this stuff for jambing or what not…
the regulator at the tank just needs to keep the pressure dialed down, as long as it works and doesn’t leak, should be fine. The filters are the part you really don’t want to be cheap with.
The regulator at the gun is what you need to adjust pressure for spraying. But there should be a large regulator at or near the compressor to limit air pressure to around 90 PSI, plus all the filters/water trap
[quote=”losmi8″ post=27408]I just know it’ll happen again, probably relatively soon ha…so I would hate to get it fixed and spend $500 only to see this happen again a month after. Then I would really feel like an idiot.[/quote]
If that is the case, you may just want to brush on some touch up paint for now
Welcome to the site.
Honestly, I wouldn’t suggest this to a beginner. Blending clear takes a lot of practice to do well, especially on black. There is also the risk that the clear could peel back later on (which is not fun to fix). Being a new car, I really would hate to see the clear blended out back there.
The best fix is to remove the bumper and clear the whole thing. Any professional will not have issues removing the bumper and putting it back on. As far as what we do every day, that is a very basic job.
If you have no tools or equipment, the $500 for a shop to do it properly is likely the cheaper/better way to go.
Wow, that is a long post 🙂
Good experience is basically the largest asset you can have in this industry. It takes many years to become a good bodyman & painter. I also understand it can be very hard to find a job starting out in this industry where they are willing to teach you.
Personally, I would recommend going to as many shops as possible and dropping off a resume. Ideally you would be somewhere that does quality work and is willing to teach you and sign you up for an apprenticeship. You should be asking questions about:
-how they will teach you
-will they be willing to let you go to school when it is time
-will you get a chance to work in the different areas (prep, body, paint, frame, glass, airbags, suspension/basic mechanical etc)
-what their process/quality of work is like
-their expectations of youAs someone who is starting out, you will not be able to be crazy fast and good. Any reasonable shop will recognize this and be willing to assist you in getting there. As long as you have a good attitude and are truly willing to learn, it will work.
Any place I have applied to, I have always asked the see the shop and work in progress. I always ask questions in regards to what I see in the back. (is the shop clean and well equipped, is there a reasonable amount of work, does the work look to be of good quality, is there anything odd about the place…anything missing etc)
I hope this is helpful, good luck to you
[quote=”Dag” post=27388]Anyone has experience with the Beugler Striper? http://www.beugler.com/ I just want to make simple lines with it.[/quote]
I worked with a painter who had one of these. He used it to redo the painted pin stripes on chryslers. Worked really well for him. Unfortunately, I never got the chance to try it out.
[quote=”chumpi” post=27378][quote=”Ben” post=27376]These guys have some good points.
Also, the Nason base requires a specific hardener too, this is NOT optional
Ben you’ll b surprised how many “painters” here in South Florida don’t even know about the hardener. You are so right!!![/quote]
Its all in the tech sheet. Nason base is a little different chemically than most solvent base (where the hardener is optional).
I wouldn’t brush latex house paint on a rotting barn without at least reading the can…let alone spraying a car without knowing how to use the paint.
These guys have some good points.
The Nason reducer is super cheap, no reason not to use it. Also, the Nason base requires a specific hardener too, this is NOT optional, did you use that in the mix? I have sprayed a fair bit of Nason, and it can be tricky with metallics, but is definitely doable. Mix and spray exactly as the tech sheet says, and the product will work well.
Alternately, spend the money for a better product as [b]some[/b] better paints are more user friendly. I also suggest practicing first. It is never a good idea to try out something new on a car unless you are certain of it. Spray a test panel or whatever you have on hand and get a feel for it.
[quote=”Paintwerks” post=27308]Obviously different booths display differing efficiencies.
So, with your particular booths guys, if you want a desired panel temperature of 60 degrees C, what do you set your bake temperature at? And how much extra time do you allow for:
A. The booth to reach bake temperature
B. The panel to reach bake temperatureI set my booth at 65 degrees and allow 12 min total (over and above the required bake time) for booth temp and panel temp. Just curious to see what others are doing?
Cheers,
Sime[/quote]This is a pretty old topic…but you did ask a question 😛
We set our booth to 160*F and bake for 25 minutes. Air temp reaches 160 in about 2 minutes. Panel temp reaches 140*F (about 60*C) in about 7-10 minutes and tends to stay close to that for the duration of the bake cycle. After cool down our parts are dry to the touch and ready to (gently) handle. We often install parts at this point. We use Sikkens Superior 250 clear.
[quote]
If you have shot/applied enough clearcoat/lacquer a hack/quick fix is to colorsand/wet flat with a block the marks out and then polish/mop /buff it to a show/flat finish.
[/quote]
That sentence is just great… :p