Ben Hart
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Your best bet is to phone your nearest apprenticeship office and speak with them. In some cases they may let you challenge the exam (1 practical, 1 written) if you have sufficient proof of work experience. That would be the quickest way. However, you maynot get a red seal that way…that should get you a certificate of qualification (equivalent to red seal) but only valid in Ontario. I’m not 100% sure on all the details with Ontario (as each province is a little different). But call the local office and you should be able to a ton of answers.
Contact your local apprenticehip office.Most of the info you want is here:
http://www.tcu.gov.on.ca/eng/employmentontario/training/certification.html
In Ontario you need to be certified as a Bodyman, but it is voluntary as a Painter, unlike Alberta where you need to be certified for both. In any case, there is Red seal (inter-provincial) certification for Autobody Technician and Automotive Refinisher.
I can mix that in Sikkens Autowave. Akzo code GMA78:15 or colormap, 359E3
If you can get Sikkens where you are, you should be able to order this in.
I drop coat on most colours was good. On finicky colours (golds, silvers etc) 2 drop coats on the horizontal parts does help, just make sure to follow those out into the adjacent panels.
The base will be harder to control in hotter weather. Stop using the T494 and switch to the T595, see if that helps. You may also want to try reducing close to 30% instead of 20%. This may help as well.
I do the drop coat at a greater distance with at least 75% overlap (more overlap than a normal coat). Do not put it on wet. Probably on the dry side of medium. Someone on here, when referring to Sikkens, used the term “Sandy Beach” to describe what Sikkens wants. Similar idea with the PPG. Just be careful that the coat isn’t actually “dry” when you apply it.
Not to sure that you would be able to see the finish well in a video…
Sounds like you have some decent guns already. I did find the Tekna better than the 3000 with the 1.3wb tip. But you can still get great results with that gun.
I’ve used that paint at a previous shop. It definitely needs the orientation coat/drop coat. What sort of gun are you using and what set up? I had really good luck with a Devilbiss Tekna, 1.3 tip and 7E7 air cap. I sprayed my colour coats @ 22-24 PSI and orientation coat @ 16-18 PSI. Add some distance for the control coat and lots of overlap, do not apply the base too wet, and allow it to fully dehydrate between coats.
Also, how much are you reducing the paint with the T494/T595? What is the temp/humidity in your spray booth?
Most of us don’t typically paint interior parts, especially dash panels. No matter how well you do, there is always a risk of chipping/scrathcing etc. Normally, painting to them is done to correct damage, so if there is a chip later on, the same colour is beneath and makes it less noticeable. I am really not a fan of changing colour on one.
But if you do, you need a proper cleaner, adhesion promoter and vinyl dye (paint) like what you can get here:
[url]http://www.tcpglobal.com/spraypaintdepot/vinyl-paint.aspx?gclid=CJ38vveusrECFQOEhwodBjEAYw[/url]We blend every colour except solid black. If someone wants a butt match it has to be approved by me first, or I won’t do it.
If your boss ok’s the blend and you and your bodyman don’t get paid, that is a big issue. Whether or not the insurance pays the shop, the shop should be paying you. I wouldn’t put up with that for long.
Sounds like a position I wouldn’t want to be in…
Looks like a nice job. I really like the colour too.
The type of plastic really doesn’t matter, just weather or not you need adhesion promoter. Take a razor blade to a hidden edge and scrape off a very tiny sliver of plastic and put it in water. If it floats, use adhesion promoter, if it sinks, you won’t need the promoter.
Prep and paint as usual…
Looks good Nex.
Only thing that is a little scary is that armor all bottle…
In autowave you can mix the 666 with about 10-30% Activator WB as a wet bed, but could use it similar to a blending clear. And yes, you can add up to 5% Hardener WB to it.
This has been covered here before and there are obviously a lot of variables. Those of us using one paint line everyday get use to it and get a pretty accurate idea how much to mix of everything. I have found working with different brands of paint, that you have to really pay attention to the product as they very a lot. For example, I use a very high solids clear coat and need to mix as much as 30% less than a clear I used at another shop…
What particular products are you using? What colour are you spraying?
I was also going to question what you did to match the colour…did you look at any different variants?
With some paint lines, you can add colour to the primer, getting a colour similar to the paint can help.
In most paint lines, the standard is to have black or white primer and then mix them to the same value as the colour. Most of the paint lines will let you know when mixing what value (shade of grey) to mix the primer.
Another option, is to mix some basecoat a red (that will hide the primer) and then spray your colour over top (sort of like spraying a tri-stage or candy colour).